I’m thinking about buying one of these, any to recommend or avoid.
Finding that with only occasional use and cold nights my NB doesnt stay charged after more than a week standing.
I think this is fairly normal for NBs and the battery seems to have a good voltage and hold a charge otherwise.
Thanks
I bought one years ago, still going strong. I’ve checked several out recently on Ebay, and the safest? best bargain seems to be the one bearing an RAC label, but not from the RAC, it’s been on offer for £35. The one I bought was far cheaper - bought from a local wholesaler, no known make, but it’s been good enough for over twelve years. (It cost £15.00 in 2005!)
Prices on Ebay vary widely, some are ridiculously expensive, but if the RAC one in genuine, then it’s a bargain compared to most of the others. From the RAC I think it’s £45.
Some will tell you “You can’t jump start an MX5” but I’ve done it several times, and no harm done to the battery.
I’d have your battery checked - I’ve left my NB for over 2 weeks this winter & she still starts first time
Hi Tim,
We bought a DB Power, 400A/12000mAh from Amazon a few months back. We got it mainly for starting our collection of motorbikes that spend most of the winter stored in the garage. It starts them very easily, and has also started a very dead Nissan Navarra diesel truck. Cost about £50 iirc. And small enough to keep in little cars like mx5s!Absolutely recommended.
I also have a DB Power.
Bought because they have a Uk website, seem to have decent recommendations,
and also I watched a Youtube video of one starting a car umpteen times in a row.
I haven’t had need to use it yet.
As said above, think the OP could do with checking his battery. Flat after a week is not good.
I have an RAC one, I bought it about eight years ago when the motorbike (Suzuki RE5) I’d restored kept draining the battery before it was set up properly, worked a treat as it seemed to have limitless power, not used it for many years until last week when the MX5 auto had a flat battery, hooked it up and it started first time.
A friend bought this for his car lot after spending hundreds on a snap on unit that failed and i have to say i was sceptical but so far it has been impressive and started even the deadest car
Never heard that one before Gerry & like you I have jump started several times on both the mk1 & Mk3.
I have carried jump leads in every car I’ve ever had (essential in 1965 for the old Prefect )
I reckon the OP should save money & buy a new battery
New battery?
Could be, if it’s an NB then it’s now at least 15 - maybe 16 years old, reported lifespan on an OEM Panasonic is 14 years. (Saz I think)
I replaced mine at 12 years, but it would still hold a charge, but I always follow the rule - ‘Prevention is better than cure’.However, even at ten years old, if the battery is consistently hammered with starts and short runs, it will start to go downhill faster, so repeated treatment that way will mean a no start one day. Slow cranking is a sign the battery is running flat, so next time it won’t start at all, in which case I run the car for ten or fifteen minutes just to be able to start it next time. A no start and run over two weeks (or a day or two less) will mean my newer Panasonic won’t start if I don’t use the car at all.
Anyone who suggests fitting an earth disconnect switch is asking for trouble, as without an alarm, or immobiliser the car is not secure, even if you think it is. Door locks are not insurmountable to a would be thief, and while they may not be able to drive the car, anything removable is insecure. I’ve seen street parkers suggest this, and I can’t think of a dafter solution - without a live battery, the car is not insured.
A story circulated in the Derby area many years ago (pre MX5) about a guy who stopped to change a wheel, and while undoing the wheel nuts, another car stopped, a guy stepped out, opened the bonnet of the static car, and when the owner said “What are you doing?” the other replied - “If you’re nicking the wheels, I’m having this battery”…
Everybody thought it was a joke, but it makes you think - it could have been real. Point is, any thief will grab the obvious opportunity.
And - I remember (well) an owner coming on the old forum saying someone had tried to remove his hardtop, which meant they broke a side window and undid visible catches, but apparently were amateurs and didn’t know about the Frankenstein bolts, so they tried desperately to yank the hardtop off - end result, one catch on the top was ripped totally off, and he had a hardtop totally unrepairable. That was parked on the street, though I don’t remember if the car was alarmed or not, but it goes to show what can happen. IIRC - he said it had a hardtop on, so he thought it was safer than having the soft roof up. Nothing is safe.
I have one of these, starts my 2.0 NC no problem, used it a couple of times over the winter as my car sits outside, and after two cold weeks it’s flat.
Thanks everyone, DBpower ordered and coming tomorrow.
To be honest it was 50/50 for a powerpack or a new battery but it gives over 13V when charged and is fine for 9 months of the year. I think it’s just in these cold months with less driving, short runs and being parked on a windy lane in the country. It’s not an OE battery which from what I hear is the best.
The problems people refer to is an issue cause by smart alternators and power control modules
Basically most modern cars have a module that monitors the battery level and drain and alters the alternator output to compensate for high current drains I.e heater on full and lights on
The problem is when you jump start a car with a pcm the pcm see the jump car/battery pack voltage and thinks everything is OK then when you disconnect the jump leads it sees a low battery output and ups the output from the alternator this sudden spike can damage the engine ecu
So if you do jump start your car leave the jump leads/jump pack attached with both cars running for about 5 to 10 min depending on how flat your battery was
This allows the battery output to stabilise and will save you the cost of a new ecu
I would connect the jump pack first, pos to pos and neg away from the discharged battery, switch on the power pack (if it has a switch) and leave 5 to 10 minutes before starting the engine, then leave engine to idle (sometimes a problem) for 5 to 10 minutes without revving the engine or disconnecting the leads.
If starting with leads connected to a donner vehicle, connect again leaving them connected for 5 to 10 minutes before starting engines.
Remember, if you create a spark near a gassing battery, you can end up with a nasty mess not to mention injuries!
Richard.