I got an imported 1998 NB about 5 years ago. Its an automatic with about 136,000 miles on the clock. It was rust proofed about 4 years ago. It was at the point were I thought I would get her spruced up for the next 5 years. In the last year the car has had a new battery, cambelt and 4 new Falken tyres.
The paint work has seen better days and I thought it was time to get the rust proofing re done. Well I’ve been to the painters and the rust proofing guy and it not looking good. The smart repairer basically told me it needs a complete respray.
The Rust guy told me that the rear arches are starting to go and will need replaced. It would cost about £2k for that and £750 for the rust proofing. Apart from the arches, the underneath is solid.
I really don’t love her enough to spend nearly £3k on her and still have rubbish paint work. So I think my choices are 1) sell now or 2) run her into the ground.
I now its a difficult one but also any ideas of how much time I’ve got until the rear arches become an MOT failure. Apparently they have just started to go. I am likely to get 2 or 3 years or do these things become failures very quickly?
At that mileage it doesn’t owe you much. If the automatic gearbox is fine and suits you that’s worth something.
If you want it for three years and not a long term keeper then I would ignore the rust proofing. Get a cheap cosmetic job on the arches and get a local detailer to spruce up the paintwork.
In three years, if you are lucky to get that much, you can have the car towed away for a few hundred - or hope there is a scrappage scheme in place by then (it’s coming at some time)
Is it worth SORNing these older cars with scrappage in the offing?
Depends when the MOT is and when you take it in they find any structural problems re rusty bits. Wheel arches corroding doesn’t necessarily mean a failure, it’s the metal connecting and behind them that’s important. If it all leads to a part that’s going to be structurally unsafe, it’s a fail.
If it’s not got long before MOT time get it ready for a test (check the basics) and book it in, they’ll tell you the answer when done. If a pass then you have another 12 months to decide the best way forward. Obviously a fail will bring you possibly further expensive stuff to fix on top of what you already know.
The downside to doing the above, a failed car will be deemed unsafe to drive, that in itself is doing you a favour, if you know what I mean.
Decisions, decisions.
I agree with Mick, spend the minimum you are comfortable with until it fails an MOT if that looks like more than you are prepared to spend then either sell as is, for parts, or scrap. Thats the way Bangernomics works for a lot of people.
Thanks all. The MOT is due on the 5th of August. I think this year it will get through with no issues. So it makes sense to put it through for another year. Also if I decide to sell having a year’s ticket will no doubt help.
Car prices are mental at present so, it probably makes complete sense to spend as little and keep it going for a few years (if I can!) and get a new car in a few years.
Portvalenil, out of curiosity what do you think a cheap cosmetic repair on the arches is likely to cost?
I just put the car details through WeBuyAnyCar - more for laughs then anything else. I was offered less than £500!
A few years I sold a car to these guys. They tried the same trick at that point. I refused and they then went back to the original price. Maybe I got luckily but the process was easy. But at less then £500 it really doesn’t make sense selling it to them.
Sure. I am based in Glasgow. There a well respected company that specialises in this nearby. They offer two levels £650 or £750 for the deluxe version.
Ok. Shame that that didn’t give you more than four years of rust-free motoring. But maybe that’s all one can expect from a one-off undersealing. Plus if the car was left outside uncovered and driven in all conditions through the year then maybe that’s actually not bad going…
Unfortunately I don’t have a garage and it’s my only car. I do use a half cover which would have done sod all. I also expect the snow and salt we get in Scotland didn’t do me any favours. Hopefully I get a few more years out of my nb
Big thing is to keep rot away from the seatbelt anchorage points. Favourite go-to fail for MOT guys.
In fact they have a lot of chassis fail points…check your Anti Roll bar mounts on the front chassis rails are still solid as well. And, the engine mount areas.
I just got shot of 1 of our Fives ( a Roadster) today as I’m weary of rot…but then it’s 30 this month.
Our 2002 Sport will be gone by end July as I can see it coming…inevitably as it’s 21 soon.
Had both 16 years…so apprenticeship served!
Brought up in West End me, Ashton Road nr Uni…whereabouts roughly are you?
The rust guy did say they recommend going back every year for an inspection and top up if required. The rust proofing underneath has survived well. It’s the arches that haven’t and are starting to go. Unfortunately too late for me.
I’m not sure why my post has been flagged for moderation? If I was to sell, I would be clear about the issues.
As I said previously, it currently only seems to be the arches that are starting to go. At this point I’m inclined to run the car into the ground. Will I get another few years out of it before I need to scrap her, hopefully.
The rust cheap said she was solid underneath and I got the impression that if i got the work done she would last for a while yet. I just don’t love her enough to spend nearly 3k. I’m pretty sure the guy would have just said, not to bother if she was that far gone.
This thread is a discussion post on why you really have the wrong car for you, with the budget you never want to spend or going to…
Its not a “for sale” post, in that this is for sale, in this condition , from this location, for this price, please PM me with interest.
I am guessing?
M-m
