So I have just taken delivery of a new SE-L 1.5. Loving the car but in the manual it talks about Keyless and Advanced Keyless functions. How do I tell which I have?
Also, I have no idea what I did, but one of the two keys now will only lock/unlock the car, but won’t start the engine (red key symbol on dash). It did work at the very first time.
I may have inadvertently taken it out of the car while it was running, or something that seems to have thrown it. Either way, I have tried to do what is suggested by using the faulty key to unlock the doors while in the car. This is supposed to reset but it doesn’t work. To save me a trip to the dealer, any other ideas?
I don’t think you have either, this Build Your Mazda | Car Configurator | Mazda UK suggests you have remote central locking only.
Do you have little rubber buttons on the door handles? If not just normal central locking.
As for the issue with one of the fobs why not try taking the batter out and putting it back in after a few minutes.
Enjoy your new car.
Stuck at work, but I don’t think there are rubber bits there. I assume it’s just the Keyless then, as I can start the engine with the button and just have the key fob in my pocket.
I’ll try the battery idea. And dealer suggested the battery may even be weak, which for a new car would surprise me!
All ND MX-5 are “Keyless Entry” by Mazda’s definition, they mean Keyless Go with Remote Central Locking (i.e. no need to put a key in a slot to start the engine, but still need to press a fob button to unlock the car first)
“Advanced Keyless Entry” is what most of us know as keyless entry (i.e. just press a button on the door with the key somewhere near). This was only on ND1 Sport models in the EU.
I regularly take my keyfob out of range whilst the engine is running (to do gates etc) and I don’t get any issues. Sometimes it refuses to recognise the key is back in the car and keeps flashing at me, but restarting the engine cures that.
The battery life on Mazda fobs is ■■■■, and they run down without even being used. Also had dead key batteries on new vehicles before, work’s Sprinter I presumed key was faulty as van was only 2 months old, it came back from the dealer with a £15 invoice for a friggin coin cell battery!
I held the ‘dead’ key up to the start button this morning and it worked. So I changed the battery and… exactly the same issue. I wonder if that key has a faulty transmitter.
How old is the car? You say “new”, new to you or brand new? Later keys have a power saving mode that deactivates the start button function. Do you have the black rectangle key or the tic tac shaped key?
Brand spanking new - 22 plate delivered yesterday. I think the key has an issue - new battery put in by me and same problem - had to hold it up to the start button to make it work. I’ll get them to look at it when it goes in for a service. I don’t need to second key really.
I haven’t. But either way, a new battery means that it should now start the car without having to hold it up to the start button. So I am wondering whether the TX function is faulty or something else.
