Lanogaurd?

Like most owners of these older cars i despair when I look at the surface rust on the subframes and components under the cars…

My car has just passed the MOT with no advisory’s and I’m told that this light corrosion is normal.

I keep seeing a product called Lanogaurd which is supposed to be easy to apply and will stop the corrosion in its tracks.

I’m not into doing a full strip down as I don’t have the time facilities or inclination I don’t love the car that much.

So have any of you used the product ?

I’m sure there are other products. I just want something to tidy it up and stop it.

Cheers

Lanoguard is a fine water repellent wax. Dries colourless and feels like candle wax.
It gives a water repellent seal and can be sprayed over just about anything except brake discs.
It is a natural product from wool and needs topping up every year or so but is easy to do. It does not give an underseal protection like some products but can go straight on to light rust. (Jet wash and dry first)

I have bought it but decided to fully prep my NC 3.5 first so I have not used it yet. Glad I did the prep as I found rust creeping under the under-seal from very small areas of damage.

I will have used mine in a few weeks or check out the Lanoguard users Facebook page there are a couple of MX5 owners on there.

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I used lanogaurd a small tub goes a long way , really easy to put on and seems to creep well into seems and inside suspension arms etc . Personally I’m not a big fan of underseal as rot can fester away under it

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I used Lanogaurd, easy to apply, seems to do the job, and you don’t need much of it - so much more cost effective than it seems when looking at cost per litre. Buy the small hand pump spray size,

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Lanoguard doesn’t have any rust inhibitors in it, it just works by covering the area to stop water and air getting to the metal.
I would say it’s better for a newer car with hardly any rust to prevent it.
An older car needs the rust actually treating with inhibitors or a convertor to stop it getting worse, which is what Dinotrol, Rust buster, Waxoyl and Bilt Hamber treatments do.

I agree with @glosrich it is better if the rust is treated first which is what they say on their website.
I tried the Buzzweld rust inhibitor and chassis in one paint first and am quite impressed.
Lots of people spray it directly over rust and it does seem to work, but needs needs topping up regularly

I can’t find Dinitrol Rust buster ?

2 separate products:

Rustbuster www.rust.co.uk

Dinitrol www.dinitroldirect.com

I’ve had a browse through your links. Thanks for them.

But it seems a wee bit ambiguous.

What I’m after is an easy to use product. Just brush over the areas and spray it on. I’m really not into laying under the car scrubbing everything…

Vactan is very effective ,I should have said I wire brushed rust off applied vactan to stop rusting with a brush then lanogaurd a few days later

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Or Waxoyl is a good all in one sprayable product.

It’s messy and it stinks for a few days, cover the ground also, cardboard or some old sheets.

Alternative pay for it to be done.

you could try bilthamber UC or S50 which have anti-corrosion properties.

however, whatever you use, the loose scale really needs scraped off

In 2017 I bought a 2010 Mazda mx5 NC cabriolet with 75K miles on the clock, she was by no means perfect but essentially appeared to be sound.

Over the next couple of years I put right various issues which arose after purchase and after the 2020 MOT the examiner commented on the rust he had observed on her undercarriage while going about his business, which got me thinking about what I was going to do about it.

At some time in her life she had been resprayed but her collars and cuffs don’t match, the engine bay along with inner sills, outer door surrounds and inner boot lid area were not included and after finding a piece of broken plastic grill on the inside of a front valance I’m guessing she may have been front ended at some point and hence maybe the respray.

So what to do?

I thought about a professional underbody seal using the likes of Dinitrol and read numerous comments from people not happy with the results due to careless work and then when considering a cost of around £500 or so, was it worth the risk of having no control over the work and spending a considerable amount on a less than perfect car?

Had she been a Prima Donna with half the amount of miles I might have thought it a wise investment but I just couldn’t bring myself to seriously consider it, so went off on a quest to determine what DIY solution would suit.

Lanoguard won the day, there are no chemicals. £71.94 (inc shipping), kit includes 600ml grease, 2lt spray and the spray head assembly.

The manufactures advise “minimal prep” and 20 minutes job done, I don’t think so!

It all depends on the amount of rust, if the vehicle is relatively new with only surface corrosion then yes virtually no prep and you could be done in 20 minutes or so but with me and my 11 year old Mazda it was a different story.

I started by jacking and putting an axel stand at front offside, removing the wheel, completing the work, putting the wheel back then moving on to the rear offside then onto the near side.
Each corner took at least 2 hours to scrape back the rust, another 10 minutes or so greasing nuts, bolts, seams and vulnerable areas then just a couple of minutes with the Lanoguard spray.

Then I moved on to the underside, not really a lot to do there fortunately but I have to say I am really happy with the results, time will tell so took a number of photos to compare when I next come to top up next year which should hopefully be a doddle and will only take 20 minutes (we will see)!

I didn’t bother about rust treatment, the car is a summer runabout and is covered and under cover in winter with plenty of ventilation so didn’t see the need.

The only issue I had was that the spray head stopped spraying after a long session, it was down to a blocked filter at the end of the pipe in the container, easy sorted, pull off, run under warm water, clean off, wouldn’t recommend leaving the filter off as the spray nozzle would then likely block and be more difficult to clear.

Another tip would be to put the grease container in some warm water before use, makes it easier to remove and brush on.

Here are several pics showing before (after cleaning), during (after grease & spray) and after (24hrs later) -

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