Has anyone used one of these?
If it works it may make my oil changes a lot easier and mess free.
http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=21108&ar=6
Well, if you had a battery close to hand…
I have one of these, not exactly this one but the same thing and its brilliant, on the last car my daughter had the sump nut was completely rounded off and this was the alternative to changing the sump pan, I have since used it on my van and it works very well
Was thinking this may be more useful for those gearbox and diff oil changes, to get the oil in rather than out.
I was thinking the exact same thing.
How would this work with a Mk1/2 MX5, with a battery in the boot? The leads don’t look very long, so you would need to have a spare battery, or hack off the clips, and attach 12V accessory plug.
I guess that curly lead (for want of a better word) will stretch a fair way.
Shame I’ve done mine on the Mk3 but I think I will still get one next Monday, always handy for that price.
Goes on sale 23rd of this month
As all the grit/swarf/sludge collects in the bottom of the sump where the drain plug is, a normal oil change will flush it all out. I’d be worried that a syphon pump like this wouldn’t get all the oil out, and crucially miss the sludge. Quick and easy, yes, but I’d prefer the old method for peace of mind.
Also, having recently used a manual pump to fill a diff with EP90, I’d say it would have to be a seriously manly pump to cope with that weight of oil. It mentions engine oil, heating oil and diesel, but transmission oils are much heavier than those.
As per Zulu above you will not be able to get all the oil out with these pumps.I only use one in case of overfilling etc.Better to remove sump plug.
I’d never consider using one of these for the reasons outlined above. Spend the extra half hour doing the job properly.
A rounded off sump plug isn’t the end of the world, someone with a welder or some more tools would be able to remove it in a jiffy…
It’s my day off. I’ll be buying one.
I was in Lidl today and bought one of those plug in torch/emergency light/automatic side light thingys.
Bloody brilliant. Now I can get stuff in my kitchen without turning the main lights on (four GU10 bulbs and not cheap to run even when dimmed).
Definitely agree with this.
You will never get all the heavy contaminated sludge out with one of these pumps. Warm up the engine, remove the sump plug, let all the contaminated oil drain out.
I would never do it any other way.
Your engines must be shot if you all have loads of sludge in them I would be more worried were the sludge has come from in the first place and what damage it has done premium oil do not turn into sludge if changed at the correct intervals
I have to agree with you. I change my oil every six months and have never noticed any sludge in my used oil.
All of the heavy particulates in the oil collects in the bottom of the sump, if you’ve ever dismantled an engine you’ll know this. By warming the engine up and then draining the oil via the sump plug you remove the greatest amount of this contaminant, but never all of it. If you suck it out from the top, it’s unlikely you’ll get much of it, and it will build up over time.
This goes for healthy engines too - it doesn’t need to be shot.
Seriously, if you love your car, do the job properly.
As far as I know, it is common practice in garages to suck the oil out on an oil change.
Not if the car has been regularly serviced in recent years, 1989 Golf GTI, I had from new, I had to change the sump due to a hole in the side of it, changed it myself at say 36k miles there was sludge on the sump and internals. Car serviced as per VW schedule.
Last year our 2007 Suzuki Jeep, we had from new and serviced as per Suzuki schedules with Castrol Magnatec, had a rusty sump, lots of salt up here on Aberdeenshire roads. I changed the sump and the internals were as clean as a whistle both the sump and the block. Not any sludge or solids, I checked that.
Modern oils keep the engine very clean. That was not the case in the early 1990’s
Further the bottom of most vertical sump drains are a touch above the bottom of the sump. Mercedes are about 5 to 10 mm above bottom of the sump.
So the last dregs stay in there.
Then if you look all the MX5 workshop manuals the first fill of oil is 0.2 to 0.3 lites more than the normal change including the filter.
So how do you go about changing that further 0.2 or 0.3 litres of oil, you do not it’s just in there.
It’s you that gets the warm feeling doing what you but there is no big advantage but you feel better!
The only advantage could be on let’s say a Mk1 that may have been poorly serviced on poor oils in the 1990’s.
Even then three oil changes with a modern oil will sort that.
So go ahead and feel good about your method but if the modern oil changing pumps hit the bottom of the sump they will do a better change at the least no worse taking the plug out when it is on the vertical wall of the sump.
Agree with you Eddie, I have bought a Sealey vac pump jointly with my neighbour and will use it on my Diesel C class Merc and my mk3.5 MX5. Mini engines I stripped had no sludge and as has been said garages use the pump method all the time…