First post the forum, so hello!! I have a 2008 MX5 MK3 with the 2.0l engine. The clutch is biting very low down, with the pedal being barely an inch off the floor before it bites. I have bled the clutch and checked the slave and master cylinders for leaks. There are no leaks, and the fluid level has remained at the same level. The clutch doesn’t slip. Would I be correct thinking that this could be the pressure plate going? The clutch is original to the car, so 10 years old, and the car has 69k on the clock.
You could try the adjustment at the pedal, brings the pedal up off the floor a little, just a small adjustment (maybe one turn will do it) but contortionist springs to mind getting to it up under the dash.
Probably depends upon whether this is a new ‘problem’ for the car. You don’t say how long you’ve had it. In my experience worn clutches tend to have a very high biting point, such that barely moving the pedal starts to let them slip. If it’s a new problem but there’s no slip it could be hydraulics.
Hi guys,
I had a similar issue with my 2.0 07-plater when I got it first, and did something similar to the above…BUT…was VERY careful not to overdo it.
There MUST be clearance between the pushrod and master cylinder piston abutment to ensure the clutch fully engages. If not, you will rapidly see either wear or clutch slip. (A bit like riding the clutch…)
It’s a function of the diaphragm-spring clutch fitted that it has quite a high internal lever ratio to keep the clutch pedal effort low, so it takes a longish travel to disengage it.
A friend’s car has just the same issue - it’s not uncommon. Adjust the pushrod length, by all means, but don’t let it go solid; it should be possible to feel juat a bit of ‘rattle’ when set correctly. The rod and its pivots and abutments can wear, so adjustment can resolve it.
When I first got my 2007 2 litre Icon three years ago I complained about the very same thing. I had the clutch bled at the main dealer in Exeter, found it was still low so spoke to the service manager who test drove the car. He then said it was normal and arranged for me to take out a similar car. I didn’t have to leave the forecourt before realising that what he said was true. Very soon another six members of the South West group exchanged their Mk 2’s for Mk 3’s and all found that their clutches had the same biting point. So we learned to live with it and now consider it normal.
Been reading lots about this over the last few days and read lots of different things, just wondered if the pedal is not set right does this affect the 1st to 2nd gear roughness…
Happy with my biting point but would like things to be a bit smoother.
I do need to change the fluids soon after other jobs and also been looking at turret oil,but once again read different opinions on this if it has it’s own oil or not.
^^^ You don’t have to live with it if you do the adjustment thing. I did mine around 15k miles ago, it’s probably the best mod/tweek I’ve done to the car.
I was referring to the post above yours about the clutch pedal adjustment, you must have posted the same time as me.
Re the other stuff, it’s worth changing the gear oil Castrol Syntrans 75w 90 was my preferred oil, it’s not a miracle cure for that notchy 1st to 2nd change but I thought it eased it to some degree. There is oil in the turret on the Mk3, mine needed topping up. Whilst there I greased the gear mech with some white grease the ball pivot on the stick shift.
For good measure whilst on with the fluids do the diff oil, never does any harm especially if it’s been in there 30k miles or more.
Thanks for all the replies, and information. Very much appreciated As I said, it has been bled through and checked for leaks. Will try adjusting it, although the low biting point has come on over the past two months, and is getting gradually worse, hence why I was wondering if it might be the pressure plate. I know when it was bled, the master and slave cylinders were checked for leaks, wear, bent rods etc.