I did the loctite fix for someone last year, I believe it’s still running fine. The Loctite 660 is available from RS Components,
I did a little more than just the fix; I recut the slot in the crank nose to allow the use of a 7mm key, which was machined to 5mm for the pulley.
I measured the widest part of the damaged slot, it was ‘just’ under 7mm, 2 mm wider than normal. I used a Dremel to open up the slot to 7mm for the full depth of the slot, I appreciate that this isn’t quite an ‘engineering solution’ but it was possible to do it well enough for a piece of 7mm key steel to fit snugly. Obviously 7mm is far too wide to fit in the crank pulley, so I cut a 2mm wide x 3.5mm deep section out of the top left hand edge, this allowed the pulley to fit over the modified key, and still align with the undamaged right hand edge of the slot.
By using this method I am confident that the loctite will set with the pulley accurately aligned with the crank.
I didn’t see the need for a locking tool, just the normal ‘5th gear and handbrake on’ to stop the engine rotating while you do up the bolt.
It’s worth using aerosol Brake cleaner to degrease the entire area, including the threads in the crank nose and make sure you use a new bolt and Loctite 243 on the threads.
Don’t forget you will also need Loctite activator 7649 as well as the 660
The activator, 7649, is designed to speed up the cure of fthe 660; it’s not absolutely necessary, but as I was doing the job for someone else it allowed me to let them have the car back the next day, instead of waiting at least 24h for the 660 to set (maybe longer if it’s cold).
More important than the activator is the use of chemical degreaser to ensure total cleanliness, for the bolt as well as the area where the 660 is used