Hi All, I had an unfortunate situation recently when, after arriving at my outbound destination, the battery on my key fob died. Why is it these things rarely happen when you’re at home?! Luckily I’d read the owners manual and knew I could still start the car by holding the fob close to the stop/start button so, no worries, I’ll manually lock the car with the hidden key and change the fob battery when I get back home. No luck, the key doesn’t work! I tried the spare when I got home and that doesn’t work either. I wonder how much a Mazda dealer will charge to sort out this “little” problem? Note to self - carry a spare fob battery!
Does the lock turn at all? So the seller supplied the wrong key? Maybe they were accidentally switched between keyfob at some point.
If you bought it from a dealer they should fix that for free.
Thanks for the reply. The lock turns fine in both directions with both keys but has no effect on the door locking mechanism. I doubt they’re the wrong keys otherwise the fob wouldn’t be compatible. One fob is still in pristine condition and has therefore never been used so I suspect it’s an issue with the door lock itself. Most strange. Unfortunately the car is well out of warranty so I’ll have to either get it fixed at my own cost or make sure I’m never without a spare fob battery!
1 Like
That is a good heads up, thank you. It has never crossed my mind to check that the key does actually work. It is now on my to do list so I don’t find my self in your predicament.
1 Like
I had the Keyfob Low Battery Warning a little while ago, so went onto Amazon (Other Sellers Available) and ordered 4 replacements - Changed both immediately and kept 2 spares… (CR2025) Cost a little over a pound each and plenty of vids on YouTube that take you through the process of changing them…
Rob
1 Like
Cheers Mad_Malc. I thought my post might prompt a few owners with the keyless entry system to check their keys! I definitely didn’t give it a thought and found out the hard way! 
1 Like
Yep they only last about 18 months max, or when you get the green icon on the dash or the locking becomes slow and random.
Definitely worth having a spare battery in the glovebox.
1 Like
While checking drivers door (RHS) window reg., I noticed this
This is a pic taken from the top of the door, through the glass aperture (glass was removed) looking at the end of the lock barrel. It is supposed to be engaged with the door lock actuator, but instead is positioned outside of it’s intended location IE. the lock barrel is not connected to the door lock actuator.
This would cause the subject issue.
I now need to remove the door handle to re-engage the lock barrel spigot.
Does anyone have a link to door handle removal / lock barrel replacement ?
There is a chance that this was done intentionally, to make the key lock inoperable ? Could be a common strategy perhaps?
Cheers
Thanks MM. I did have a cursory look in the manual before posting, but your correct, it’s all there ref. door handle and lock barrel removal.
Interesting find though. As I am not the original owner of this car (and as yet not used the manual key), it did seam odd that the lock barrel was mis-assembled, as the original owner would not have been able to access the car in the event of a key fob battery power out.
Maybe it was a mis-build which was never noticed, or it was done deliberately to deactivate the manual key.
It does however contribute to “Manual Door Lock/Unlock Not Working on ND”.
Cheers 
PS. If your wondering why my pic I posted of the lock barrel looks a bit “sepia”, it’s because I had just sprayed some Dinitrol cavity wax into the inner door area.
Nice Dinitrol … 