Just accept this if you are going to fit the bar do not use stainless steel nuts and bolts. Use at the least carbon steel grade 8.8. Again Autolink should have them just phone and they will advise. Do not buy crap fasteners online that says spec A2 or A4.
As far as I can tell there is one bar that can be fitted at the back - captive nuts present.
Lots of cars with the front upper suspension brace but few fitted with the lower rear suspension brace. Quite a number of MK1/Eunos cars do not have the facility to bolt on.
Unless you are intending to do track work braces unlikely to make any real difference on the car.
The OP hasn’t stated if the car is a 1996 1.6 or a 1996, 1.8, and if the car is UK spec. If the former, nothing to worry about, they are all like this. If the latter (1.8), then obviously somebody has removed the brace, which is a U shaped assembly (3 parts, welded). Amongst the reasons to remove this is bodging; fitment of a new exhaust usually requires removal of the brace (though you can maneuver a system around the brace), and in some cases, the hard points located on the floorpan just come away with rust. Not straightforward to repair.
Looks like a 1.6 diff, and the amount of rusting around the brace hard points on the subframe suggests braces have never been fitted to this car.
The OP can add a brace off a 92-93 1.6 with no issue. Not worth adding the full 1.8 brace, as that was mostly as a result of, as Bob Hall stated, making the 1.8 -18% better than the 1.6 (minus, because most of the so-called improvements were necessary to address the increase in kerb weight, itself as a result if a bigger engine being fitted, due to an increase in weight due to door cross beams and cabin cockpit brace (another brace that the 90hp car is missing); the cabin brace was needed due to US Federal regs (but not needed for anywhere else)).