I have no experience in machine polishing but have been recommended the above, link below
https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/images/misc/dapolishing.pdf
Having read a few posts from some experienced detainers I gather the ND paint is quite soft so a few questions which i would be very grateful for thoughts:
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Is this a good machine for a novice or should I stick to hand polishing/ waxing?
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If suitable, what is a suitable polish to use for removing swirls / marks before waxing?
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Do I just use finishing pads and, if so, what are the best ones others have successfully used?
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Is crystal serum worth considering after polish8ng.
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Is it worth investing in a paint measuring device and, again, if so any suggestions for one suitable for a novice (ie not too expensive)
Many thanks in advance
Cheers
Mark
I have a Das 6 pro and generally use Farecla products due to selling them at work,and like you a complete novice but still manage to get some good results but not excellent think that will come in time when I learn more about speeds & pads etc…Think you would have to do some thing really silly to damage your paint with one of these.
I will let others with more knowledge tell you about pads and polish etc.
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Agree with the above, really versatile tools for the money. I use the scholl products. S3 gold for cutting and then sometimes a finishing product. The abraisives in s3 breaks down as you polish so usually saves you doing a 3 stage polish. You’ll often get away with a 2 stage polish instead for a more than satisfactory finish.
Sonus and meguiars professional products also work well and don’t dust up. Most good branded compounds and polished work well these days if you buy quality pads.
I did a course with a local detailer which really helped. Takes a lot to burn paint with one of these things just make sure the car is clean. Always clay bar first and wipe down with iso propyl alcohol and water spray before and after polishing to make sure you haven’t missed anything.
I like the meguiars microfibre pads for the cutting/polishing stage and are designed for Das 6, their foam pads are also good and are graded.
The finishing pads are soft and will work, I’ve found a foam “polishing pad” and s3 gold will remove most swirls and finish nicely on its own for something like a Mazda with relatively soft paint.
Vw stuff usually needs a firmer pad like the microfibre as the top coat is hard.
My best advice is use the lightest abrasive first to see if it works then step up if you need to.
The depth readers are a good indcator and give peace of mind if you’re not sure of the cars history, but generally they’re not necessary on most OEM finishes
If you need any more help or advice give us a shout and loom forwards to seeing the results
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Thank you very much, extremely helpful
This is helpful andI wonder if you can answer my question. My MX5 Kuro paintwork has little marks that dont want to come out with just shampooing. I keep reading about the use of a clay bar to get them out. My question is, after using the clay bar, will my paintwork look uneven, ie a different colour where I have used the clay bar? If so, will it even out again if I then wax the bodywork. Wondering whether to pay an expert to do it properly but would like to have a go if it is without risk!
As long as the car is properly clean you shouldn’t have any issues using the clay.
It depends what is causing the marks, the clay bar removes contamination (dirt) that is stuck on the surface of the paint. If you use a mild clay with some quick detailer it will leave your paint feeling clean and ready for a wax or sealant.
You can get more aggressive clays if your car has never been done before and you find that the normal clay isn’t working but you might want to consider a polish after this as aggressive clays can leave a few swirl marks.
In short using a good quality clay such as meguiars or bilt hamber will be fine for 99% of people. It won’t change the colour but I would do the whole car as the idea of the clay is to super clean and give your protection an ideal base to stick to.
If the marks are caused by tar or some sort of adhesive maybe try a specialist cleaner first then follow with clay.
For a daily driver i tend to give them a thorough clean every six months:
- Wash with shampoo and wash mitt
- De iron spray *
- Rinse
- Tar and glue remover on any tar spots
- Clean with mild clay bar using plenty of quick detailer or Optimum no rinse as lubricant.
- Wipe down with diluted isopropyl* alcohol if using a sealant or long lasting wax or use a paint cleaner like auto glym super resin polish
7.wax/seal
*The isopropyl alcohol and the de iron spray are optional but I’ve found they make your life abit easier as your protection will last longer and the car will be super clean!
Take your time, use plenty of lubrication and clean microfibre cloths and you wont go wrong with the clay.
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Thank you Montana. I think this is a real move up from my thinking a bottle of Autoglym shampoo and conditioner would suffice.! I am keen to up my game however and I will try to obtain de iron spray, tar and glue remover, quick detailer lubricant and diluted isopropyl alcohol. Not to mention some wax and seal. I think I will be able to obtain all these online? Any suggestions for getting glue residue off my headlights after using EU light adjuster stickers 2 Summers ago? Many thanks.
Petrol works good for adhesive but rinse lots afterwards
Thanks I will give that a cautious try!
Is isopropyl alcohol absolutely safe to use on car paintwork? I used a product called klinect or something similar that had some in it & it appeared to dissolve the paint.
The Isopropyl you can buy from the chemist and dilute yourself I would use that for your headlights or if you have some super resin polish a light buff with that might help.
Detailing is a total worm hole… once you go looking for swirl marks you’ll never look at a nice new car the same again 
Yes it just dissolves any grease wax or fillers from old wax so you can see the paint. It evaporates very quickly and doesn’t damage paint even only cellulose and enamel paint you don’t need to rub at it.
The other alternative is “panel wipe” from a paint supply shop but I’ve found isopropyl to be safer
Various detailing supply companies also do their own prep fluid or solvent. I haven’t tried these but I imagine they will be a solvent base with some lubricant and a nice smell 
IPA (not the beer) 
… I tend to dilute to 50/50 with water and put it in a spray bottle. Spray it over the area and wipe off in one clean motion with a fresh microfibre cloth… no scrubbing.
If you want to remove a residue… soak a microfibre in it and leave it sat over the area to soften it first. You could also use an all purpose cleaner for this but it ant that effective on glue etc
I’ve used a lot of different polishes over the years and recently moved to Chemical Guys V36 followed by V38 polishes. Combined with the Chemical Guys Hexlogic pads (can’t remember which strength) they gave a great finish and not too harsh for Mazda paint work. Worked fantastically on my Discovery 4 paint work as well.
I have the Dual Action from CleanYourCar.co.uk, fantastic website for car cleaning stuff and often one of the cheapest.
Check out the Chemical Guys YouTube channel, they often cover paint correction and show you which pads to use.
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Thank you for all the advice. My MX5 Brilliant Black Kuro edition is now out of it’s overwinter garage, been MOTd and serviced and just waiting for 1st April to Unsorn, TAX and hit the road. Oh and it is also waiting for me to get down to using all the new cleaning and polishing kit I have bought! Just waiting for that perfect still dry day, not too sunny. Thanks for your help and advice. I will post a pic if I feel it is worthy!
No problem, black cars are the most satisfying to work on! Look forward to seeing the results. Any questions or if you’re struggling drop me a line 
