Discovered issues with a 20 year old Meta Immobiliser in my Roadster; it doesn’t unlock. I’ve taken to disconnecting the battery recently as the car isn’t used much. Car was last used 2 weeks ago (all day run). Initially, the LED wouldn’t extinguish, and I noticed the key had started to fall apart (no spare). The key is of this type:
After a few trys, the LEDs did go out, and the car turned over, but did not fire, instead getting that click click, that I normally get with a flat battery (click click but doesn’t turn over). I think its a dual circuit immobiliser, so immobilised on the ignition and fuel pump circuits 2 year old Mazda battery is now on a trickle charge, just in case it needs the edge taken off it.
I read the keys can’t be reprogrammed, and that if you get a replacement key, you need a working key. So assuming I need a new immobiliser, can anyone recommend mobile fitter in the Milton Keynes-Leighton Buzzard area. Its been over 10 years since I had anyone fit an immobiliser on a drive, and back then, as I recall, it was about £100 for a basic system.
The model is the common Meta M36T2. I just had the dash in pieces; glove box out, radio out, under steering wheel trim, gauges out, and I still can’t see the Meta Black box, except that maybe its stuffed behind the heater matrix. As far I wiring, I can only see the immobiliser key wiring, and additional wiring on the ignition switch. Surprised to see the fuel pump relay (yellow) untouched. If I wanted to remove the immobilizer, is it just a case of removing the additional wiring at the ignition barrel and making good?
Charging and changing the battery made no difference.
Finding it surprisingly difficult to find someone who will fit a bog standard immobiliser. They all want to fit something costing £300-700.
As you say, these were very common 20 years ago & insisted on my many insurers for import Japanese cars. All have been fitted ‘aftermarket’ tho’ so yes they can be removed, it just takes time to work out how. They originally came with 2 black fobs like the picture plus a red one that could only be used a limited amount of times but could be read should you ever need a copy.
If you can’t mobilise your own car given lots of time then at least you can rest in peace knowing that the fitter did his job properly!!!
They were also factory fit by Lotus and TVR. Mazda UK (well, TW White) fitted the immobiliser when they imported the car from Japan.
Found the fitting instructions:
https://lnx.pixelbitstudio.it/e-commerce/open2b/var/product-files/553.pdf
Still insisted on by insurers.
Do you feel that the immobiliser is needed?
If not, my advice is remove the immobiliser.
A simple enough procedure but humour me if assistance required![Wink]( "Wink")
A simple procedure for those with a fully flexible back. And so simple that a garage charged me £200 for the privilege on a previous car. And if I removed it, my insurers would decline my business.
If you can come up from Devon to sort it, I’d be more than happy to bung you £100 to replace it, plus the cost of the immobiliser itself.
So, given I can’t see any cut wires near the fuel pump relay, where have they cut into my loom? Besides the ignition switch.
I have removed several aftermarket immobilisers although not a META one.
I have sold touch keys for these in the past and there is usually one available on ebay so if your immobiliser problem resolves for any period of time you should be in a position to add another key.
From memory the wiring is mainly ignition with two wires(white) soldered to and one wire(blue) cut and joined at both ends to immobiliser wires.
There is another much finer wire that is cut and joined at both ends, usually under the footwell plastic trim in front of the o/s door.
Removal/replacement assuming the same experience as mine with different immobiliser types should be possible without stressing your back.
I can’t say for sure but in my opinion the wiring on all these is more or less the same.
Whether you go replacement and I see that your alarm is still available or removal, the time involved would be around an hour for a professional.
I would start by identifying where the immobiliser wires join the loom - I think you will find this a lot simpler than it appears. The hardest part for me was soldering the heavy duty blue ignition wire.
…and yes, if the car were to be left with me down here in Devon for a few hours, I would remove/replace the immobiliser for you.
Put it out of mind today. As I recall, I can see two extra earths have been added to the dash frame that appear none-Mazda (either side). I can trace the lead from the Dallas connector, and it seems to disappear behind the heater matrix. I can see extra wiring and insulation tape around the ignition switch where something has been fitted, and that also seems to disappear behind the heater matrix. But there should be a 3rd wire, and I can’t see that.
To see this wiring, I had to remove the drivers seat, steering wheel, and basically get in upside down. Painful getting out, from within a narrow garage (garage is at the top of a slope, so pushing the car outside is basically a one time operation).
Accredited fitters seem to be thin on the ground now.