My car is a MK2 1998 MX5 Roadster 1.6. As an import it has air conditioning. Over the last few weeks I am finding the car mists up extremely badly inside the cabin and positioned my instrument panel knob to try and erradicate the problem. The misting is on the front window and side windows, (the rear glass window is fitted with a hard and soft top that has heating element so no problem there as the rear window demists quite well though there is some outer edging misting (clear in the middle of the rear window but misted on left and right sides)and there are droplets forming (like water drops - similar to an inner shower door after you shower!).
I have played aorund with all the intrtument knob positions - pushed the centre knob section for outer or inner air flow and it makes no difference. Only way to clear the front window is to put on the air conditioning and it needs to be on cold as the warm heating (if put on) makes it worse.
I end up using a cloth or pad to wipe on and off as I drive (stop to do so or at the lights - hence stopping) and I have found I need to keep the windows partly open to help keep the front window clear. It is cold to freezing now December is here and its no joke having to drive like this.
The car has had a check…there isnt any filters apparent. Air onditioning is checked - fine!
The car is not fitted with central locking and personally I had central on my ohter MX5 and it proved a problem. The car seems fine in warm dry weather with a little stiffness as you turn the key (I have also had new keys cut and these too are the same).
However again with the very cold to freezing weather the key on turning is difficult. I have put some WD40 into the lock areas and a little copper grease (minimimal) on the key itself. It helps a little!
Can any one help wiht these queries please? Many thanks
If you’re getting severe condensation, you probably need to find why the inside of your car is so damp. First off, I’d recommend you check the hood drains are clear: There are two drain “cups” set into the rear shelf behind the seatbelt turrets. Water from the back of the roof drops inside the car into these and then drains down tubes which emerge under the car. Particularly at this time of year the tubes can block with leaf mulch.
Not wishing to souns alarmist but is your carpet wet either side of the transmission tunnel towards the front?
If your heater matrix is leaking, or you are suffering water ingress from the various seals around the roof/door then you will find that this increases your condensation problems.
The problem with water is it will always take the easiest path, and this sometimes means into as opposed to around your pride and joy!
With regard to the stiffness in the locks, I would not put oil in them, certainly not grease. Oil works fine, initially, then it attracts grit and dirt which is an abrasive, finally it coagulates and the lock gums up. If oil has been injected over years the tumblers will not operate properly. There are aerosol sprays available from motor factors which clean the lock and leave a PTFE residue which lubricates the lock. Probably a good spray is needed to thoroughly clean the lock. The best lubricant for any lock is graphite, but it is messy!
Firstly, thank you (and also to everyone else who have replied so far) and please excuse the late reply in getting back to give you (and others) my thanks.
I had the car taken in to have its front boots seen to. The mehancie (he is polish and works for an ex partner of mine) said he thinks the pollen filter is the problem. He didnt get to see to it as its difficult to get to understand him let alone he trying to explain in broken english.
I was not aware there is a pollen filter on the MX5 Roadster (MK2). If so, where is it situated/positioned on the MK2. My car is the early MK2 (1998) on a R registration.
The graphite stuff you mention for the locks - can you let me know if this has a branded name available at such places such as Halfords please?
Thank you for your reply. Please accept my apology for not getting back to you sooner to give you my thanks for your information re my enquiries on misting up and stiff locks.
I noticed when I had the soft top up that I found water in the area behind the seat belt outlets. Just behind the very top of the seatbelt where the seatbelt belt comes in and out there is a small area that is deep (akin to the rear shelf and just behind the seat belt (where the very top of the plastic cup that covers the seat belt adjutstment covers)
The water was found on the driver side but since the hard top went on - I dont get this water. I checked the soft top for any damage but found none.
In regard to the misting up - I spoke to my ex partner’s mechanci ( he is polish and speaks broken english) and he told me that he thinks the trouble is the pollen filter on my MK2 1998 MX5 Roadster.
I was not aware of a pollen filter on the car?
Perhaps you can help me with my findings re the water in and around the back of the drivers seat (around the seat belt area) and the pollen filter please?
The area
you describe where you found the water is the top of the drain holes,
suggesting that you have a leek somewhere. When you put the hard top
on the water flow is around the car and not through it as with the
soft top.
However
all the water that has entered your car will still be there, and this
will be causing the condensation . You need to dry the car out
completely. You might even consider taking the carpets out to dry
underneath them.
As for
the locks, I agree that graphite is the best thing to use, before the
lock sticks in the first place. go to an art shop for a graphite
pencil, most pencils are actually clay make sure you get the correct
thing.
Halfords
do go a teflon grease (teflon is a trade name for PTFE) or screwfix
do a range of PTFE sprays. I have not used either of the products so
don’t know if they are what the previous poster was thinking of.
Sorry, but I disagree. An external lock needs to be waterproof or at least resistant to condensation. The machined/cast clearances on an MX5 door lock are fairly large, more so on a worn lock. There is plenty of room for water to get in and freeze or promote oxidation of the metal parts. My own preference is to use a white lithium grease aerosol, insert the straw tube into the lock where the key would go and pump it full of grease.
If you really want to use graphite then you can buy a bottle of graphite powder. I got mine from CPC.
Just a further thought on this matter. Is the shutter to the lock operating properly? if it is broken or stuck then water will make the lock freeze up, also have a look at your keys, not many people ever take the trouble to clean them. They pick up all manner of dust and dirt in daily use which is then transferred to the lock. Yes the teflon spray from Halfords is fine for this purpose. In the old days before aerosol sprays the method was to dip the key in light oil then insert into the lock then lock and unlock the door. This was done two or three times then the key wiped clean.otherwise you will soon get the oil on your clothes, does not endear you to customers who have just had their car serviced!