Mk1 1990 1600 Cranks but won't start

Technical Area Engine, Transmission, Exhaust etc
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Hi, I own a UK 1990 MK1 1600 . It’s been stored for a number of years in a dry garage. The engine cranks but doesn’t hold idle ,immediately stalls. ive changed the fuel,fuel pump,fuel filter,the leads ,the plugs,the coil pack and the CAS. I’ve bought a good secondhand ECU and swapped it over,still no change . I’ve owned this car for 24 years and really don’t want to give up on it,but things are becoming expensive now.Any ideas would be gratefully received,

thanks

 

3

Hmm, just a thought since you’ve done the rest.

Static fuel pressure might be OK, but is there enough flow?

Did you flush out the fuel lines, clean the injectors, clean the air valve, and throttle butterfly, etc? Petrol makes a gum when it dries out. Loads of Carb cleaner needed.

The ECU will always richen the mixture to start the engine (so it will kick off OK) then drop back to normal, and any blockages will mean not enough getting through and too lean to idle.

4

Hi Rob here,

 

had this trouble a while ago,any immobilizer fitted if so reconnect the cut wires to the loom, then have a look at Mazda Menders Site search for (mk1 eunos starts then stops) this is the list of things I tried and found the fault, cheers Rob.

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Thanks Richard, a guy at work suggested flushing the fuel lines and looking at the throttle butterfly,ill buy some carb cleaner… Rob , I had a simple aftermarket immobiliser fitted in 92. I had been warned about old immobilisers so I hat was the first thing I removed. It was the flat key fob type that contained shorted contacts.I metered out the fob and rejoined the wires so hopefully that should have eliminated that . I’ll check out the mazda Menders site .Its cold outside so this might take some time…

thanks for the suggestions

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Had a very similar issue with my 1990 Eunos. It turned out to be a faulty “Igniter”. Cost £20 secondhand and a simple plug-out plug-in swop.
Rod

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Thanks Rod ,worth a try.

 

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Also well worth a look at are the other places where too much air can leak into the system including manifold gaskets and ALL the vacuum hoses, eg to the brake servo etc. 

Try pinching the relevant hose shut when trying to start and idle.

I’m not sure how many of these devices are fitted on your engine, but they can also let in too much air if stuck or rotted.

EEC. Evaporative Emission Control system, the purge solenoid solenoid can stick or the hoses or charcoal canister can leak.  Pinch the vacuum hose.

PCV. Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve (on the cam cover) stuck open. If it rattles when you shake it, it should be OK…

IAC. Inlet Air Control valve.  If you unplug its control lead and it makes no difference then there is a good chance the IAC needs to be cleaned, or the wiring is damaged.

EGR. Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, sometimes this sticks. Tap it for the spring inside to release it and see if it makes an improvement.

 

Then there are extra loadings because something has seized up.  Try running the engine without the ancillary belts (A/C, P/S, alternator, waterpump) for just a few seconds.

A/C. Is the Aircon putting an excessive load on the engine because of pump problem and/or the clutch is rusted on?

P/S.  Is the power steering pump loading it excessively? 

Alternator. Are the bearings shot?

Waterpump, ditto.

 

Good luck.