I’m currently restoring a 1993 Eunos Roadster ‘S-special’ which is fitted with electric-windows. Despite stripping and cleaning the mechanism and electrical-contacts, the regulators continue to struggle. My previous ‘V-spec’ (same year) operated much better, although I could hear the regulators labouring.
I am toying with the idea of fitting the UK-spec ‘keep fit’ manual windows, which is more retro and in keeping with the ‘classic feel’.
My question is, is it a direct bolt-in replacement? (with modified door-cards, obviously!) Has anyone else done this? Can you buy brand new manual-units, and if you can, do any of the other parts need to be recycled?
I went the opposite route and fitted electric instead of manual windows.
all the hardware should be on the for to allow the retro fit of the manual windows.
I have a pair of UK door cards in the loft in the garage, they have been there for a while so don’t know what condition they are in but you are welcome to them but I can’t see where you are based.
Never heard of anyone wanting to do this before but why not.
As far as I know all Jap Eunos import cars were fitted with electric windows. You would need to lose the window switches, door cars and regulators and replace with manual door cards, winders and winder mechs.
Your problem with elec window mechs is very simple to sort though and will make a world of difference - try this first:-)
Remove door card and mechanism. check for damage to cables. If no damage spray white grease on cables and use static battery to shuffle carriage backwards and forwards on mech to get grease to all used/exposed section of cable. Spray white grease on rollers and track.
Most important part is to remove door glass and thoroughly clean, removing all debris, rubber residue, etc. thoroughly clean all window tracks and then liberally spray with silicon lubricant. I even spray the operating edges of the window glass. You will not believe the difference and this could last 2 - 3 years before needing repeat treatment.
I would add that the motors rarely burn out - it is always a cable, possibly weakened by rust that snaps or a nipple on the cable that snaps on the carriage. The reason is friction in the window channels - sort this out and the issue will go away.
The manual mechs do give problems by the way so my advice is stick to what you have and get to know it a little better.
That’s a very kind offer, thanks!, but I think modifying the door-cards should be a reasonably straightforward affair. There seem to be plenty of UK Mk1’s getting dismantled, so I’m hopeful of sourcing parts. I’m drawing up a list in total. (in order to save on P&P)
I had a UK Mk1 back in my 20’s, and the ‘keep fit’ mechanism gave me no trouble whatsoever (unlike my two imports…) ??
Some Roadsters did come with manual regulators, and manual regulators can get extremely stiff, and as far as I can see, are not serviceable. The stainless steel speaker cover will foul on the manual window crank, so you lose your speaker trims as well. I agree with Rhino, its cheaper and easier to make your existing windows work better with a bit of grease.
If someone in the past has replaced the factory electric regulators with cable less parts, these can rust a bit, and needs cleaning out.
Crikey! I never thought about the chrome speaker-grilles!
I wonder how much they foul by? Could I get away with buying alloy winder-handles and profiling the backs of the handles to fit?
I have had the regulators and rails out completely, cleaned with WD40 and ‘Gunk’, and reassembled with everything greased with white-grease. I even deburred the rollers with micro-mesh, and they worked great for a couple of days before returning to a laboured, slow, inconsistent travel. It’s the same for BOTH sides. The other option of course, is two new kits, but I’ll be raging if I spend that amount of money if it does not rectify the problem…
Dry and clean all contaminants off the runners and use an aerosol of silicon lubricant(£4 - 5 delivered, cheaper from toolstation). Use a Stanley knife blade to ensure all sticky bits removed from the glass window.
Silicon spray is the magic ingredient. Our Eunos stays outside all the time and windows on both sides go up and down perfectly after more than 3 years. If the action seems laboured or slow, something is wrong and too much pressure being exerted on the weak point = cables and their nipples.
Only issue is the time of year, if vehicle outside. I did this maintenance in July at the height of summer where everything dry and very easy to work with.
I’m doing the same mod on Little Blue, also a Mk.1, i.e. taking out the electric winders and fitting manual ones. The driver’s side had failed completely and the PO removed it; the passenger’s side is very slow.
Blue is intended ultimately for a little occasional competition, so I’ll be removing the door speakers anyway and making new door cards myself.
New manual regulator mechanisms seem to be fairly readily available, albeit for a price, but don’t seem to come up too often on a certain internet auction site.
Does anyone know if Mk.2 manual mechanisms are interchangeable with Mk.1?