Hi all
I’m changing the manifold on my MK3 next week to the BBR one, apart from the manifold itself, are there any other parts I should consider having available just in case?
Would it be prudent to have a new manifold gasket, nuts/studs and midpipe bolts available, or in your experience were they re-usable?
Cheers
Stuart
you will want a new gasket!
Make sure you fit the heat shield so you don’t boil your brake fluid.
Gasket both ends and bolts or clamps, not sure whats needed for the mid pipe. Old bolts usually don’t like coming undone so i hope you have an angle grinder
Mind you will still have to tune the car to get performance gains.
I did my own manifold. I inspected my gasket between engine and manifold and reused it, works fine.
There generally are gains to be had without a retune but usually not as much as with a retune. I have a G-Tech Pro RR to measure performance and on several occasions with different options I saw measureable gains without retune.
I too reused the OEM manifold to head gasket. I had new nuts and bolts for the manifold to mid pipe connection, and reused the old springs. Removing the right side front wheel arch liner help with access, so replacement plastic liner clips will be handy, one or two usually break.
Also, a 15mm swan neck spanner is essential for the rearmost nut which secures the manifold to the head, and a flexi 10mm ratchet spanner makes life much easier for removing the many bolts securing the OEM manifold covers.
There’s an excellent step by step guide for changing the exhaust manifold on the flyin Miata forum, well worth a look.
Thanks all 
I work for a garage so there shouldn’t be a tool problem and it will be on a ramp.
Its also got 2 connections (its a decat manifold) so I assume that both sensors need to be in the manifold and the 1st one extended.
It will be mapped once the physical work has been carried out.
Depending on how many miles and age, the Original gasket is fine. Recommended to use that by Skuzzle at the time.
Just fit the one sensor and have the other one mapped out.
Many people do it that way.
Never had any issues. 
Its worth getting 2 x Klarius SZP3 bolts. As the original bolts are often seized and rusted into downpipe connection flange on the downpipe.
Well thanks to all the replies.
In the end I swapped the manifold gasket (not needed) and the mid pipe bolts which were ok but swapped anyway.
Didn’t need and studs or nuts and they came off quite easily.
All in all the job wasn’t too bad, most of the bolts on my car were pretty good.
Both o2 sensors are retained, with the 1st one extended. Instead of cutting the wiring I just bought an extension.
What’s your impression so far?
Well, the biggest change is the noise, its such a difference compared to stock. In a good way for me, but I could see why some people would not like it.
Is it faster? Well, probably. I haven’t had my timing box on it yet since the work had been done, so no definitive figures just yet. As I was remote I haven’t had a rolling road on it, just the BBR map which was sent over and then tweaked after sending back some data to them.
Mid range is improved all round and the car feels more alive in every gear.
The difference is not as great as remapping a turbo car and doesn’t feel anything like the difference that would give, but with some more tuning I think I could get to a level I am happy with.
I went with the 180 as I could go supercharged from here if I felt that was the right option, without wasting what I have already spent.
I’m not sure what the jump from the 180 to the 200 (with the cams) is like, or whether it is worth the cost.
Good to hear. My guess would be that that jump would be about the same in terms of gain, maybe slightly more. I think the engine would also be more revvy. The cams probably make the biggest gain in the top. But not sure though, just a general guess based on tuning of cars I’ve seen before.
