Mk3 suspension noises

Having now finished my winter jobs, cobalt back box, RSW wheel, aluminium pedals etc, my mind is turning to the next job, 30mm lower springs. This will be a big job as I want to remove and renovate most of the suspension parts, before rebuilding with new springs, and then alignment.

Whilst contemplating this job, I am starting to wonder what to expect when done, particularly what noises I should expect as normal. I have not driven many 5ā€˜s and certainly not what I might consider a fully sorted one. When I got mine there was clearly a big rear end clunking which was well fixed with rear drop links. There are however still a few ā€œsmallerā€ noises as I drive, more noticable on the rare occasion that the hood is up, but small knocks at low speed over small undulations. I can’t see anything on the suspension arms that is moving.Could be the boot lid? Could be the doors moving? What else.

I drive a new bmw as daily drive and I guess that isn’t a fair comparison as it’s so sweet. But what should I aim for? Are these knockings typical for a Mk3? Should I be looking at new bushes all around when I fit the springs (cars done 65,000 miles). Don’t really want to have to do this.

How quiet should a really good mk3 be? Sorry, a few questions here but would be grateful to hear what other owners think is normal.

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Difficult to say as you may appreciate, but the car is cracking on a bit (like me…and I’ve got a few clunks & groans!).

I’d get it ramped and do a full and deep bush inspection with the wheels danglingĀ including exhaust hangers. I think you are on the money there. No 5 is a quiet 5 but they did not leave the factory with clunky undercrackers ( Ohh matron!) I’d also stick to OEM bush kits tbh.

My NC had an assortment of clicks and clonks and I was beginning to think of the rear drop-links or shocker caps, but when I emptied the boot for the annual service and MOT they all vanished, apart from the random clicks from the recently new front brake pads.

The two major noises were the Stoplock shackle and the box with the spare bulbs rattling individually and against each other, now all wrapped for quietness.

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That’s how they sound. More rattles. Not heavy clonking. A bit like a slightly loose door rattling. It’s only low speed over minor bumps and certainly not from overstressing the suspension. Maybe something not tightened. I’m going to have a look in the boot area again se if anything is loose.

Jack & wheel brace above the rear wheel arch.

 

I’ve taken the jack and tools out and it’s still there. I like the idea of getting on ramps with the wheels hanging and having a poke around. I wonder if something isn’t tight. Sounds like its at the back half. Again, it’s only minor but it’s there and bugging me.

It’ll be the Bilsteins, mine rattled and clunked even over minor uneven surfaces. I had lowering springs fitted but it was nothing to do with those.Ā  I just put up with the noise, tried everything, even put foam strip under the rear shelf, still clunked.Ā 

Had Meister’s fitted and it’s perfect now and absolutely no clucks or rattles.

Thanks mick, if I knew that’s what it is I guess I would feel more reassured. Is there any way I can check them on the car to see if they are rattling? I’m not really up for such an expensive upgrade as the MeisterR. Not sure if my driving style would do them justice

Hi, over the last 3 years of mk1 ownership I am constantly trying to reduce the rattles. Obviously making sure that all suspension bushes are good and drop links are good as they always seem to produce knocks. I had the door cards out and tightened and greased everything in there, changing the door rubbers definitely helps and these can be swapped to give a fresh edge. But the one thing for me that really stopped a lot of shake and rattles was fitting a top mount strut brace, well worth it.

They will be worth it, especially if you can adjust the damping like the Tein Flex Z.Then you can set them to adjust your driving.If you want to do a track day then takes 2 minutes to set to track mode.

 

Adjust tip of strut, 16 setting N0 16 being SAF

Adjust damper at top of strut.Car sits not too low,i can get 2 x finger between the tyre and arch.I’ve ran lowerĀ  but only on damper setting 16 where the struts don’t move at all.I run on setting 11 most days.If I’m on a oldy run out then its setting 9.

Remember you will need a 4wheel alignment by someone who knows what they’re doing.On you next club run out you loose everyone on the twisties.Best mod you could possibly do and you will get rid of that hideous 6 inchĀ  gap between tyre and arch. Car hugs the road and has a proper aggressive stance.

I tried everything to see if I could reduce the rattle and clunks, even replaced all droplinks. I had read about the bump stops disintegrating causing the clunking also in other suspension about the upper collars at the top of the shocks rattling. I wanted a change anyway as the Bilstein set up with lowering springs did bottom out at times on undulating roads, think they were tired after near on 60k miles. Not cheap but I bit the bullet and had the . Meister’s fitted the full treatment and corner weighted, best money spent on the car 

I’m not saying it’s your problem but after you have been through everything else like me I’d be pointing at the Bilsteins.

 

It’s tempting to go coil overs. The pics have the look I’m after. I have the stock sport strut brace. Do aftermarket units provide so much improvement?

Will feel like a different car, I’ve strutted the engine bay.Ive also got all new braces to go underneath and new roll bars for front and back.The coilovers will do the job without the braces though.Mines going away for full restoration so everything coming  off  but will go back on with the additional stuff.Cars getting a colour change also as ive given it to my son as his 1st car.,Sons looking at Cadburys metalic purple lol.

Everythings coming out,engine, interior & body is getting separated from chassis.Going to cost lot of money but he will have a brand new car.

 

I went on a tour around Northumberland around 4 years ago they car performed great but the suspension was a little too bouncy for my liking and bottomed out occasionally, I did have a full boot of luggage though. That was the longest most loaded up tour I’ve done in the car, it coped well enough.
Moving on the next biggy was the NC500 and Scotland tour over 18 days. Just before we set off I had the Meisters fitted the difference was amazing, no more bouncing suspension, the car felt rock solid over any road surface and of course no more rattles and clunking. We do that trip again in May, can’t wait.

All in I would say it’s over Ā£1k easily for MeisterR’s, alignment and corner weighted. The Meister’s alone would set you back Ā£750-Ā£800 approx to buy but do get them professionally fitted and set up.

Mine was quiet when I got it and after 3 months it developed a very light clunk under certain braking conditions. That’s now gone as it’s got colder and now has what I’d describe as a rubber squeak over the speed bump on our estate road. I’ve had a quick look and a wiggle on stuff but put it down to old age and damper oil temperature - I guess it call be the car though ??

FWIW Also on Bilsteins.

My 2007 Zsport does clunk a bit like something in a box in the boot with the roof up. Can’t find anything amiss. Its on Bilsteins and lowered 40mm. Doesn’t bother me as it’s a second car and rarely drive with the roof up and not noticeable when roof dropped.

1st Mot tomorrow in my ownership so will see if it throws anything up.

That’s just how I feel at the moment. Weekend car, only ever driven top down and then no perceptible noise. Just don’t like noise where noise shouldn’t be.

think I will go ahead with the stripdown in spring and have a good look at the Bilstein to see if anything is rattling. If their no good then probably coil overs are the way, cheaper than new Bilsteins and eibach coils