Odd mate.
Just checked my DVLA owner registration form before I posted…defo Mazda Mx5.
The plot thickens!
Just use this to check the registration.
The original Eunos UK registration details are transcribed by hand so there are errors and some variation though.
Thanks everyone for their input. I am definitely looking forward to getting it back now so I? can investigate further. Hopefully it will come back this week. I remember back in the 90’s that imports were worth less than UK cars as we had a nearly new mk1 in 1998 and it was a big thing when we sold it. However I know that a lot of Eunos cars are now worth a bit more as rust is sometimes less, but depends on when they were imported and underseal applied…
The front badge is a Japanese market one, which does lead me to believe it is an import, but as the overall value is fairly low, I suppose it does not really matter anyway. It does mean that “keeping it original” is probably not possible. It probably means more to say keeping it standard, but accepting that it is not original. However it still goes back to not wanting it as a modded car, in that it is lowered, tuned, etc etc. I like the “original look”, but as my ultimate car would be a Singer 911, it is keeping the original look, but making it more up to date. Going back to this theme - any suggestions?
The car is listed as registered in Feb 1994. It could have an import nose.
The giveaway is the chassis number behind the engine. If its NA6CE…, its an import. JMZ, UK car. Check the logbook.
The distinction matters to an insurance company.
Best route to “modernising” the Mk1 is to fit Mk2 suspension, with Mk2 lowering springs (on standard Mk2 springs, the car will ride high), and to fit a complete driveline from a Mk2.5 Sport, including the brakes. Fit Mk2 cockpit gussets to stiffen the body a little, take the creakiness out. Essentially then , you will have a 2005 car in a 1994 body.
Thanks saz9961 - Looking at the log book the Chassis number starts JMZNA18 - so its a UK car! This has surprised me - thanks for the info. I think I need to order a UK badge for the nose!!! I think that this makes it more important to keep it on the road, as there are surely fewer UK cars left as I know there were a lot of imports.
I will hopefully have a look at the garage later, as they have not got back to me on when it will be finished, so I will look at the badge on the door frame and see if there are any more clues.
Thanks everyone for the information and thanks for the ideas on the Mk2.5 suspension etc. I will see how the suspension is later when I go to the garage and may go down this route…
Just been to the garage to see how my rust treatment is coming on…
Not a great conversation as it went along the lines of how far should he go and how much do I want to spend…
Decided that I would get the current inner arches done now, get it through the MOT and take it back in October when it is off the road again. Rather than respray the car now, he is going to do the sills in black on the basis that it will need new sills, new rear arches and possibly front ones. Then it will need sanding and a full respray. Therefore I realise I am delaying the inevitable and the cost, but at least I will get to use it over summer. He found lots of filler and it seems most of the car has had some work - not always well done - over the years…
On the bright side, the mechanicals/interior are all ok!!! I am sure it will cost me far too much, but will be done well in the end, so I feel like a custodian…
Hi
I have a March 1990 UK MX5, that is as standard as the day it rolled of the production line, its never been welded or painted, its done 67000 miles and has full FSH.
In ‘standard’ set up its more comfortable and characterful to drive than my MX5 Mk3 2.0 Sport
If you have an early ‘non modded’ car IMHO - standard is the way forward, having said that on mine I have changed the clarion pull out radio cassette for a modern HU and fitted steering a Momo Prototipo steering wheel, obviously I have retained the originals as these can quickly be swopped back
Enjoy your car, no matter what you do to it
Ian
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Thanks for the reply. since it was in the garage I have discovered that it need lots doing to it, so I will be doing it in stages. I will try and keep it as close to standard as possible, but it will certainly not be “original” as by the time I have finished it will be a bit like the guy who claims he still has an original brush - although the head and the handle have both been changed many times.
However I will try and keep it as close to it was originally as I can - but with a lot of new metal and probably a complete respray next winter. Its going to be expensive…
For me…if I had the money, I would keep it original for what you want to use it for. doing it up with the tin worm battle, protection, then paint will make it in my eyes a very desirable car in the future.
I see so many cars with “mods” on them and think it is such a shame they did it in a way that does not suit my eye, but then those cars are not mine, it’s your money you spend it how you want!
These cars were designed to be modified (get a copy of 30th anniversary soft top hard top where all is explained) each to their own
I have put a mesh grill on the front of mine…it looks good, but for me protection from stones. When I fitted it I pulled out about 2 hand fulls of grit/stones, so necessary. I want to keep mine long term, and as original as possible. But, my son says it would better lowered, I agree, but will it effect the comfort? I suspect yes. I have a Mini with sports/cooper “S” suspension…and it is very uncomfortable around town and on our poor A and B class roads. So I’m happy with it’s handling, it’s only when I go around a track I feel it could be better, and that is not often enough
Keep original for me, enjoy it. I have loved using mine for the last few weeks in this lovely weather. I hope you have many smiles per mile
Thanks for the reply - I agree with what you say and I have decided to keep it as standard as possible - but obviously trying to keep it in roadworthy condition.
I know it will cost to get it back to a great condition, but having seen some other cars with resprays, I was very envious, so as I am very fortunate to be able to afford to do that, I am looking forward to the journey and the end result…
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I’d try to keep it fairly original if you can, or make a few light modifications.
For example, with my own NA I’ve fitted a set of 15" Enkei wheels more commonly found on some NB models, along with OEM NB suspension.
Finally got my car back. whist I am happy to have it back and it has an MOT now, I feel that it is only part way there. Looking closely at eth paintwork, it needs a full respray, as a couple of the panels look like they have been painted on someones drive with a spray can - and the finish is not great. Therefore whilst I will enjoy it for the summer, I need to send it in for a bit more body work and a full respray over winter - better start saving!!
It looks ok from a few paces away and the sills have been painted in black as an interim measure until it all gets painted over winter. The joys of MX5 ownership!! at least I will use it as much as possible over summer…
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I was also thinking about the chrome rollover bar. I thought about taking it off. Any thoughts? If I do, will I need new bolts, as it bolts onto the seatbelt anchorage points and when I took the cover off, the bolts look long and I am not sure if they are original or if I need new ones…
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Personally, the roll over bar is very popular bling…each their own.
In the highly unlikely event of a roll-over, it’ll do naff all for you.
I’d have it gone…never liked them, but that’s just me.
Your car looks great and yes like mine it’s a 10 footer but I’m working on that.
It’s mostly new paint but the workshop went out of business so I’ll need to button down and finish what was started myself.
We will both get there…you have momentum now so don’t lose heart!
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I was just looking at another post, which also stated that the rollover bar will do nothing and as you say, a rollover is rare. Therefore I am going to remove it. However I just need to find out if I need a new pair of bolts…
Even with a bar like that, after you remove it, the car will feel looser. The stylebars do tighten up the body. From 1994, Mazda added a cockpit brace to meet crash regulations, but which also help get rid of some rattles.
The original bolts on a 1.6, will have a spacer. More spacers on the 1.8.
So can I get an “original” cockpit brace? And I take it from your comment that I can use the same bolts?
Thanks