Well I have now at last become a MX5 driver, as I have just purchased a silver 2008 MX5 2.00 litre Sport NC, with 61000 on the clock.
Only had the MX a few days, but seems to drive well and I am well pleased.
I just wondered having heard about how critical correct suspension geometry is, how would I know that my geometry needed adjusting?
So far the MX’s steering doesn’t feel too heavy, but certainly heavier than my 2018 Mini Cooper Clubman, possibly perhaps not as communicative as I expected though.
Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.
Also, any recommendations as to which cable is recommended to enable me to use my iPhone with the stock (non Bose) radio, would be great.
Best regards,
Graham.
My model of MX-5 is: __
I’m based near: __
I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __
If you can find a tyre fitting company that uses a ‘Hunter’ wheel alignment system they will have the latest settings for your car. Apparently Hunter get wheel alignment info and updates direct from Mazda I was told.
Whatever you do the Hunter is the way to go, just about as good as it gets in my view.
I was given a printout of the settings before and then after setup, Brill!!!
Roy
PS … I think the info you seek is in the Downloads section of the Owners Club.
My car is NC 2011 2l Miyako, I had 4 wheel aligment on a Hunter a few weeks ago and I’m very happy with the feel and road holding. I now have 215-45-17 ‘Goodyear F1 Asymetric 5 tyres’ slightly larger than 205 standard but cheaper.
PPS … My tyre fitters only charge for changes needed the check was F.O.C. … shame all of it was miles out!
Hi I think there are a number of after market products for iphone etc. I have the Mazda iPod kit fitted with Bose. It allows the iPod to be used with the Mazda controls and display on the standard head unit. (Aux toggles between iPod and AUX)
If I remember correctly it only works with an iPhone if you alter your phone settings so it functions as a storage device like an iPod. It is also the older iPhone 4 connector so you need an adapter.
Not sure how to connect an iPhone more easily if you want music. Probably need an aftermarket device which will be cheaper.
(PS iPhone XR works fine with the cars clunky audible Bluetooth phone system but no audio streaming)
A simple way to connect your head unit with a device would be as shown in the link below.
The only concern I would have is the connection between iPhone and that cable, I know very little about iPhones.
It would be radio out or at least brought forward to allow access to the port in the rear (the port for the disc changer connection) some have managed to connect with the radio in situ going up behind the glovebox, very fiddly.
No Bluetooth on your model car, alternative plug in devices are available (into the 12v aux socket) and connect your device that way.
My route was to just swap out the whole head unit, does away with any leads/devices and give me hands free calls, music and navigation all off my phone via Apple carplay or Android Auto.
I have a gizmo that plugs into the power socket and has two USB outputs, one for power for your iPhone and one to output audio to your head unit
It comes with appropriate leads.
The gizmo pairs with your iPhone to stream music via Bluetooth to your head unit.
It works perfectly and is dead cheap.
It also allows for hands free phone calls.
It’s absolutely right that you should thinking critically about your suspension geometry setup, although you also need to bear in mind that the way the car reacts to inputs from the steering wheel can also be down to tyres, tyre pressures, the state of wear of your suspension bushes and so on and so on. And it’s only if all these things are all in good condition/working well that you will gain a true picture of what’s going on.
Specifically re geometry settings, as has been said many times, the key thing is to find someone who knows how to actually use whatever alignment equipment they may have, whether that be string lines, a Hunter’s full blown laser system or steps in between - although bear in mind that a string line system when used correctly is probably as good if not better than fancy laser systems.
Next is what settings to use and/or are best suited for your specific driver style/preferences. Some of us like a really “pointy” front end and others may like a lively rear end. All of these things (within reason) can be affected by the actual choice of settings.
A good starting position is to go with the “factory settings”. However, these are generally expressed as a central value plus or minus some other amount, often quite a lot. So, for example, a central value toe setting of, say, 1mm of front toe in may be stated as having an acceptable tolerance of plus or minus 1.5mm. So what that means is that your car could be within “specification” even if you had toe out of 0.5mm on one side and toe in of 2.5mm on the other side! The less discerning driver quite likely wouldn’t notice that anything amiss, but others will pick up on how the car will react slightly differently, especially when cornering. So whatever setting you go with make sure it’s set as near as possible to the same both sides. And don’t be fobbed off or fooled by the fancy printout showing all the values against a green background (indicating within the factory range), look critically at the numbers themselves. Maybe a 0.25mm tolerance either side of the central target is ok, but don’t readily accept more.
Hi Plip, thank for this very useful information, which makes me understand the importance off correct geometry on a MX5.
I have my new (to me) MX5 booked in for the transmission oil, spark plugs and FL22 coolant to be changed; so after that I’ll see about having the geometry checked.
