Autolink Ali gear knob and handbrake plus new gaitors
Clear front reflectors and repeaters
H&R Lowering springs
Cobalt back box
Springs settled in
De-Tangoed headlights
Retro style mirrors
New Rims
Hard top and a clean!
Stick on plate
Homemade MK1 door card conversion
Useful USB socket and voltage output
Rubbed down and polished wiper/indicator stalks
Wrapped rear lights
Drilled and grooved discs
Seat Leon splitter
Current day state
A few little scrapes and bits to tidy up, got a pioneer double din in now also and some different clocks and bits, I’ll throw some pics up soon. Any constructive comments welcomed and thanks for looking
Looks a nice car that you spent a bit of money on that you like. Trying to be “constructive” she does have rust issues that you may wish to address. In one picture of the car on ramps it is obvious that rust is present and on the MOT history there is a question mark on a chassis rail. If you wish to keep the car on a long term basis and maybe get a return on the money already spent, I would invest in some form of rust treatment either done by yourself or by a professional.
Yes Raymond I couldn’t agree more! With regards to the rust, both sills and arches have been replaced and one chassis rail has been done, if it comes to it I will probably just scrap it, swap parts on to a higher spec newer model and move on but we all know how attached we can get to these little cars! Have you any experience or suggestions with regards to rust treatment? Regards
"Yes Raymond I couldn’t agree more! With regards to the rust, both sills and arches have been replaced and one chassis rail has been done, if it comes to it I will probably just scrap it, swap parts on to a higher spec newer model and move on but we all know how attached we can get to these little cars! Have you any experience or suggestions with regards to rust treatment? Regards "
I have a bit of experience with the NB rust ! These cars were not treated properly at the factory as they were meant like all things Japanese to be thrown away after a few years. The BMW Z3/4 and MGTF were much better looked after. The Z series are really well protected. Put on safety glasses and lift the car up at least once a year and check the underseal. If broken grind it and place rust converter then patch the area of underseal you have removed. Clear the drain holes every week. The rear subframe seems to be a particular horror with the rear suspension arms breaking ! In an ideal world it is possible to remove the rear subframe and have it shot blasted and painted accordingly but if not then try to remove the rust and paint it with a rust converter and top coat. Now the inner box sections. These are the main problem as they rust from the inside out. No wax was placed on these in the factory so I suggest Dinitrol ML as a starting point. You can buy a small plastic hose that you can use with the rattle cans. You may have to drill some holes here and there to get to all sections of the boxed panels. At a later stage you can use the thicker dinitrol HS 3125. Only do this with a dry car. You can pressure wash the underneath of the car before you start and allow it dry out properly. A company will charge around £500 to do this for you but that buys quite a few cans of Dinitrol. You can never stop rust but you can slow it down. This was the floor pan of my NB.
I am looking to protect my MX5 that I bought a few years back with DINITROL is it easy to apply yourself with an air compressor. I’ve noticed they sell 1 litre canister that attach to the airline and gun
dinitrol 4941 Or is it best taking the car to a professional for treating? I noticed on the dinitrol website they a local provider search finder