NA Headlight Issue?

  1. My model of MX-5 is: NA MK1
  2. I’m based near: Worthing
  3. I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: Poor NA Headlights

Hi folks,

Finally got the Eunos back from the parents in Yorkshire, and completed the good 550km/340mi drive back to the South Coast. The journey was made purely at night which is where I noticed something a bit odd with the headlights.

I did have H4 LED bulbs fitted initially, which were removed as an MOT failure, but were also terrible, so reverted back to a set of Halfords Advanced H4 Halogens which were recommended by Auto Express.

The brightness is not the issue, it’s the projection and pattern which is causing me concern. Whilst on dipped beam, the near side appears to be much higher than the off side, and also a lot brighter too. Whilst driving, I was getting the occasional driver flashing me, assuming I had my high beam on, when I didn’t. I have tried adjusting the headlamps and they’re completely level and I’ve also tried removing, securing and reinstalling, but still the same problem.

Also, on high beam, the light actually appears dimmer than on dipped?

I am also noticing the units juddering/bouncing around too, which some drivers mistook as me flashing them.

I’ll try to get some photos.

Any advice?

I had issues with people flashing me and odd beam angles when I had some unknown bulbs in, I think they were some europarts cheap things but I cant remember.
I bought these and havent had an issue after fitting and doing a quick beam angle adjustment, pretty sure its been a year since fitting and still all good.

I am guessing that you are still using the OE 7" light units with a bulb defuser?,there are far better on the market for brighter clearer light and bulbs, like clear Raybriggs and so on are good with the PIAA xtreme force bulbs, you will have planes trying to land on you.
But the MK 1 head lights suffer from the negative connection on the plug tarnishing causing a bad earth to the bulb, which gives poor light also, so check that and that it as not melted trying to get a good earth.
M-m

Both of the 20+ year old H4 connectors were cracked and full of green corrosion from years of exposure to the elements (one connector was partly melted). You can try cleaning the connectors up, but you will be back at it in a few months, because its the plating that has corroded through, and this plating is supposed to slow corrosion.

I ordered a pair of these Ring ceramic connectors.

Massive difference, though I also changed to new Lucas-branded 7" headlamps to replace the Freeforms I had before (The Stanley Raybrigs were a glass freeform. In 2020, Stanley stopped selling the Raybrig line, but allegedly the same headlamp is now sold, Japan only, under “Stanley Electric”. Raybrig was the consumer line, where they’d put a blue tint on glass to sell, Stanley is the serious OE replacement brand).

Freeform headlamps have the beam focus moulded into the bowl not the glass. It debateable whether they are better than comparable conventional brands (comparable being the operative word, because the only comparable brands being genuine Cibie, Hella and maybe PIAA). Raybrigs are always better than the woeful Japan/US only sealed beams, though the export-spec Koitos were pretty decent. The Freeform idea was invented by Trucklite, for American big rigs, looking for something cheaper and weightsaving compared to glass units that were getting smashed all the time. So the originals were all polycarbonate. Stanley changed the polycarbonate “glass” to glass. I’ve not seen side by side comparisons of Raybrigs and Wipac freeforms. But most people back in the day brought these headlamps because they came in JDM yellow or blue.

Another driver was to cut down on the glass thickness (cost). There are a lot of mystery brand headlamps on the market which, if you look closely, seem to have the distinctive Cibie or Hella fluting in the glass. But they are knockoffs with thinner glass, generally made in India, which seems to be the global focus of headlamp manufacture these days. Cibie performed well because they used good quality crystal and thick glass to get accurate focus (and were pricey). Freeform headlamps free the manufacturer from having to use thick glass, or even pay all that much attention to the quality of the crystal. Or just use plastic, which won’t crack when you spray cold water on it after a 10 hour haul through the dark in a Semi.

I said I used Lucas-branded headlamps. They came in a Lucas box from a reputable UK supplier. They aren’t knockoffs. Lucas doesn’t exist anymore, but its brand does, having been sold to, or licensed to ELTA. Allegedly they are made to the same spec; the 328s I have do have nice detailing in their construction, but I have no idea where they are actually made. They beat the 15 year old Polycarbonate Freeforms I had, thanks to the polycarbonate picking up thousands of fine scratches over the years.

I think Wipac would have beaten those Freeforms (and the Wipacs were OE fit on the original Defenders), but I fancied King of the Road/ Prince of Darkness on the car.



Ultimately though, the 7" bowl headlamp is an ancient design with limitations. Its never going to compare to modern lighting, and the Chinese trying to shoehorn various technologies into the unit will always be compromised.

1 Like

Thanks for the replies folks!

So the headlamps I have installed now are these;

Which I bought to replace the original sealed beams that were installed when I bought the car.

Would the above be better?

As for the wiring, I’ll disassemble again and have a look. I’m no good with electrics so I wouldn’t be comfortable with replacing if required, but I’ll give cleaning them up a good go.

Thanks again!

For the wiring, I cut back old wiring, added crimp connectors and shrink wrap for a long lasting connect (not solder). I don’t know what brand the MX5city lamps are. The MX5parts ones are Wipacs, which should be ok, but Polycarbonate, so what happens is that winter muck seems to bake onto the plastic. On the Mk1, there is a rubber flap that is supposed to clean the lamps everytime they go up or down, but I suspect that they just rub grit into the plastic.

As for wobbling headlights, check the securing ring is tight and the lamp is properly seated. The check the rubber stop behind the headlight

Because its old metal, plent of WD40 or similar and get it moving from the headlight side, to avoid chewing up that nice screwdriver slot.

I had the standard headlights on Daisy, and driving Miss Daisy at night was an adventure, really needed a man with a red flag to go first as the light output was pathetic.

I fitted these LED replacement units and, wow, country lanes were no longer a ditch visit waiting to happen.

Fitting LED bulbs is an MOT failure, fitting LED Headlight Units as a whole is permitted. Mine are also DOT approved (probably not, made in China, but looks kosher).

These came in at about £50 a pair, lots on eBay at that for each one - sold mainly as Land Rover replacements, but fit any 7" headlight shell.

Low Beam is well spread out in front of you and covers the kerbs left and right. High Beam is straight ahead. Dipped is not to the left, its straight down, so you do not need beam changers for continental use.

The screws holding the old retaining ring were rusted solid, so I soaked them and left them for a couple of days. Some came out, some sheared off so I replaced them. Standard size is M4. With the rusty hole, I put in M5 stainless ones, they self-tapped, even if they were not supposed to.

They include “switchback” side/indicator lights so you have the option of connecting them or not - up to you. The adapter cable is not required if fitting to an NA or Eunos, the standard existing fitting works.

7" LED headlight units


PhotoRoom_20230502_102453

Indicators/sidelights were converted to “switchback” LED bulbs, show white unless indicating when they switch to yellow. I don’t use the indicator ring option on the headlights.

I purchased these from MX5Parts, they are the indicator units with NO sidelight.

I simply replaced the orange indicator bulbs with Switchback led bulbs (yellow-white) and I now have nice and bright sidelights and indicators.

NOTE. Since replacing the headlights, 2 MOT’S have been done with no comments. Also fitted to another Eunos owned by a friend and it also has had 2 MOT’S.

2 Likes

I’ve done similar, but also gone for TSI’s in place of standard sides/indicators. Side lights are now set-up as DRI’s with turn-signal overide ( I made a reflector to fit inside the bulb cavity).
Headlights also turn signal override on the side-lights.

I fitted Cibies to replace the rusty originals, with Osram Silverstar bulbs. Good enough, but there is no lamp shield so you get an odd bright line in the beam.

Late UK Mk1 cars have remote electrical headlamp levelling. The fitting rings for these are different to all other MX5s and, as far as I know, have been unobtainable for 20 years.

Go for the MX5 parts clear units , but try the Bay of E first.
M-m