NA non starter

Thanks for that but we know why it’s not starting it has no spark to 2 and 3 cylinders so it’s not a fuel problem you can see from past posts what parts have been replaced. 

Ben - in three pages nobody asked where you were (you need to fill in your location!) so where are you?

Very true Gerryn I’m in Cambridge 

Thanks Ben - bit too far for make to make a quick trip to. PM Robbie, see if he can spare some time? Robbie works in Cambridge, so I assume lives nearby? You just missed out on his holiday break.

Yes Gerryn I know Robbie is local but seems  cheeky to ask as I’m sure he’s always busy and wouldn’t want to inconvenence him in any way 

 

LOL - you mean inconvenience surely?

Or did you mean ‘I don’t want to P him off!’. No harm in asking, worst case he’ll say NO.

Could be the latter hehe 

Have ran a diagnosis test this afternoon and the only code that comes up is 03 g signal which points to the cam angle sensor or wiring to it so next step is to swap out the cas with a known working one at the weekend and see if that sorts the problem 

 

Just picked up on this ongoing tome.
Two days ago you stated you had found bad connections to the coil pack and CAS.
Can you confirm these bad connections have been repaired? If not you could be chasing your tail.

edit: surely if the CAS was faulty it would affect all cylinders not just 2.

just a thought.

The cas has two sensors on it giving out two signals so I understand it is possible to have spark to only two cylinders. Lso I should have said the wiring has been repaired 

Combemartian is right Ben - I was going to comment on this earlier, but decided my comments were too technical. Those blue crimp connectors are for 1.5mm wire, too big for standard OEM wiring. Should have been red. The bigger the connector, the poorer the connection. A substantial crimp would be needed (hard one) that doesn’t show. Also, I’ve used these on rare occasions for electrical connections, not on a car, and unless they are crimped properly they can be a pain. Looking closely at your photo, one wire - the blue IIRC, shows the bare wire sticking out slightly from the actual connector, which makes me wonder if either too much was stripped from the insulation, or the end isn’t in far enough. Also, these connectors need four crimps, one for each wire - not in the centre, and the ends also should be crimped, as these hold the wire insulation firmly in place.

Also - afraid to show my ignorance, I didn’t ask what the black object is that the red white and blue wires connect to - it that the CAS? Obviously it’s a mod of some sort, unclear to me why. I suspect this used to be a plug and socket connection, but not having worked on this area of the engine I don’t know.

Crimp pliers are about £15 from Halfords, and they aren’t the best, but good enough for most users.
If it were me, I’d get some red inline connectors from Halfords, usually come in small packets, and cut the blue ones out (next to the connector) and strip about 5 mm off the insulation and crimp each wire separately, then crimp the end of the connector. Wind the ends of each wire strand so they are tight together before sticking them in the connector, this stops the wires spreading around when you crimp them.

Do one connection at a time, this avoids any cross connections if you chop all blues off at the same time. Alternatively solder the wires together, but this needs experience, and crimp connectors are the easier solution. You could also use a screw type connection block, but I don’t like using these unless I also stick ‘wire ends’ (also known as bootlace ends) which have a small insulator to cover the wire insulation, these also need crimping (use the end of long nose pliers for this) as screw connectors can damage the wire itself. You can also get these from Halfords, get the right size for the wires. If you also get crimping pliers, then use the crimp that’s the closest to the wire end size. All up - you are looking at about £30 if you need needle nose pliers as well.

You can try the different CAS, but if the connections are bad, then you will still have the same situation and still have to redo the connectors, but suit yourself, maybe it is the CAS and not the wiring.

Quote from Robbie over two weeks ago.

“Seems like it’s injecting then so that pretty much rules the CAS out”

Any thoughts Robbie?

Shoot - - I just wasted time on that post too ! Never mind.

Gerryn thanks for your comments the red white and blue wired connector is for the coil pack and yes red connectors have been used to m a key the repairs but the diagnosis code still cones up the same 03 g signal cam angle sensor. 

No worries Ben. Let us know how to goes after the weekend.

Update 

First off can I thank everyone who has taken time to comment and offer help. Today fitted a cam angle sensor and guess what it started first time so can now move on to replacing all the water hoses as no doubt the rubber will be perished after five years in the garage also planning to have the radiator refurbished or replaced and new thermostat. 

Once again thanks to all who have commented. 

Great stuff ,give me a little hope for tomorrow!

Cheers what’s happening tomorrow?? 

Great news. I think we all like a happy ending.
Good luck with the rest of the project.
D

Changing my cam sensor ,hopefully to cure a non start problem !