NA oil filter change - what a pig!!

Lovely sunny day so decided to do a mini service. Hadn’t done an oil filter change before but thought I was prepared - had brought the MX5 round tool which fits over the top of the filter a long time ago and had the front of the car on ramps and the back on axle stands to keep the car level. Although I read up on it first and thought I knew where it was located ( had the photos in front of me ) it still took me 20 minutes to find the filter - I had almost begun to believe it wasn’t there. Access was surprisingly difficult and I had to hinge the top brace bar out of the way and even then trying to get hand/hands in was hard. Clearly this job is designed for a left hander and being over 50 my grip strength is not what it used to be so I ended up enlisting the help of a neighbour with popeye forearms - he was successful eventually but didn’t escape without abrasions. I do have an ancient bicycle chain/bar device for removing filters but wouldn’t have been enough space to use it. Had to use my left hand to tighten so not sure if it tight enough. Any advice for next year would be appreciated - my arms will only get weaker!

Cheers 

Matt

I have never had a problem Matt and you have just explained why - left handed - well for this job anyway.

It is a small filter in a particularly awkward position but being a partial lefty does help on occasions.

If I remember correctly I took the inlet manifold support bracket off, makes for better access. 

Doesn’t help though if the previous filter has been tightened up by a muscle bound mechanic.

At least now you know where it is the job will be 20 minutes quicker

 

Very  true and I now have a neighbour with experience 

There is a remote oil filter kit but it does cost a fair bit. My usual solution is to drive a hole through the filter with a small sharp screwdriver then enlarge to hole and stick a bigger screwdriver through it to turn it. Did this for my NC but next time I will get one of those universal ones that tighten round the base

http://www.sears.com/search=oil%20filter%20tool

It take my car to the Mazda dealers, it makes the job really easy

 

Gra

Now you have done it once, next time will be a doddle.

 

Had forgotten about the screwdriver technique. Actually this would have given more leverage than the specific tool I used - might just consider this if struggling again next time although clearly would be more messy

cheers

Matt

Of course if the screwdriver trick fails, you are in big trouble.

Hi Matt,

Like you the first oil change was a struggle, never a fan of the screw driver trick I bought one of these.

Oil Filter Tool, Jass Performance @ £24.80 from Moss.

Expensive yes but now I just jack up the front drivers side, remove the wheel, reach in through the hole in the inner wing and once the hex is engaged on the filter just wind off. You get two tools so fits genuine Mazda and other filters.

Next challenge for you is getting fresh oil into the gearbox,

Dave

 

I did 15 o&f changes on my old mk1, taking the front RH wheel off every time. I’d wear a latex glove on my left hand for grip and undid the filter without any special tool. I never figured out how anyone could get their forearm in from the top.

Now, with a mk3, I jack the whole front end of the car up, wriggle underneath and have to remove a damn under tray first.

 

Thanks Dave,

I like the look of the Jass tool which would seem to offer good leverage compared with the tool I was using and I think it would be worth the investment. Hadn’t thought of removing the wheel - how much space is there for your arm via this route?

I did manage to change the turret oil, gearbox oil and differential oil previously as I wasn’t convinced this had been done by the Mx5 dealer. Was worth doing particularly as the gaiter was predictably split. Syntrans gearbox oil improved the gear change into 2nd considerably so the notchiness is now gone (except in warm up phase in very cold weather) - the gear change is one of the things I enjoy most about driving the mk1.

Cheers

Matt

Yep, 20+ years ago I too had a good strong grip, not so good now hence the need to use performance enhancing tools.

Moss have a 10% offer at the moment but sadly this tool is excluded from it.

Obviously removing the wheel does not increase the access space between the inner wing and the engine but it does enable one to lean into the wing space and get your arm through the hole and along the engine. Could never see how you can get at the filter from the front or the top and taking the under tray off just puts the front suspension in the way.

I you decide to do the gear box oil PM me and I will explain how I did it without jacking every thing up in the air, if I explain on here people will tell me that I have not done it the ‘proper’ way. 

Dave

Ah sorry Matt, eyesight appears to be failing as well, you have done the gear box oil I see.

 

No worries and thanks for your help - I might come back to you in a couple of years re gear box oil change in a couple of years as I had to raise all 4 wheels last time to keep the car level

Cheers

Matt

Heaven knows how you did that on an NC.  I can barely get a hand onto the filter.  That said I think that’s a really messy method and best avoided.

I’ve got  Bergen 3034 tool which locks on the end of the filter case.  I bought it after the first oil change I did.  Works dream on the NC.

JS

 

I took off the passenger wheel. There was a small plastic cover over the access to the filter sideways which I removed. Using a long screwdriver I managed to pierce the filter and turn it slightly . Next time I will let the dealer do it