NA Shock replacement

Hi all,

Looking to try and maintain the stock look for the most part, but discovered my rear shock absorber is leaking. I think I am going to aim to replace all shocks and springs as they are looking tired, but as mine is a limited edition and in good nick elsewhere, I don’t really want to slam or heavily modify the car.

Have been looking on mx5 parts at different shock absorbers and am currently thinking I will replace with Genuine Mazda shock absorbers and the eibach sports spring set that lower 30mm. Is this a combination anyone else has done and can recommend? Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated!

I will likely look into replacing some of the bushes along the way (as I doubt these have been replaced before), but am not sure I can afford a full suspension overhaul currently… Any tips on this balancing act also appreciated!

  1. My model of MX-5 is: '98 mk1 Dakar edition
  2. I’m based near: between Droitwich and Chichester
  3. I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: shock absorber choices

Eibachs and standard shocks will lead to a firmer ride, and more hitting the bump stops on b-roads.

Hi Saz thanks for info.

How common is it? Have you done that modification yourself?

Charlie

I restored a 1998 Berkeley last year and I took the plunge and went for a set of KYB AGX shocks from MX5 parts and Eibach springs. I found that the ride was too low and very hard. I then swapped them for a set of springs from Autolink and have found that the ride is much more accessible and also has some adjustability. Search Berkeley. Is it worth restoring.

Hope that helps.

Peter

Hi Peter,

Super useful thank you! Looks like some impressive and extensive work done there! How have you found the KYB AGX and standard springs ride height? Is it much lower than standard? Do you consider the adjustability in the shock a worth investment?

Thanks!

From What I have seen looking at Dakars they have appear to have a slightly higher ride height than stock. which would be either different springs or a different spring seat height on the shock.

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Extremely common. Eibach are more or less the same as any other lowering spring.

The Mk1 has a flaw in its rear shock travel; mthere’s not enough, and on uneven surfaces (UK roads) the car spends a lot of time hitting the bumpstops. Lowering the car exacerbates this (early S-Specials had different bumpstops than standard).

MX5parts and others will do “trim springs”, that are in between Eibach-like springs (which lower, nominally, 30-35mm) and standard spec springs. Autolinkuk used to do springs like this but now only do springs modeled on the 1990-93 factory spec springs (a little different from the later 1.8 springs).

Spring rate is a function of coil length, wire thickness and number of coils. You are not going to get a lowering spring that rides as comfortably as standard on a standard shock.

The KYB AGXs are a decent shock. Most direct replacement aftermarket shocks are slightly firmer or slightly softer(rebound, compression) that standard. There is nothing magical about the OE shocks; Mazda don’t make them, they come from Showa, which is one of the big 3 in Japan (Kayaba (KYB), Tokico).

The AGX shocks are adjustable (the adjustment simultaneously adjusts compression and rebound).

Damping rates:
100 is considered the same as factory.

1990-97
1 = 95 (5% softer than Factory)
2 = 100
3 = 107.5
4 = 115
5 = 143.5
6 = 172
7 = 197.5
8 = 223

Now you will find lots of posts of people’s favourite combinations of settings, front and rear (by the number of clicks), and how they will turn it up for the track, and turn down for the road.In reality, the adjustment allows you to kind of match the shocks to the spring. So for something like a Eibach spring, you turn up, so the shock is better able to control the spring, and a Trim Spring, you back off a bit, and a stock spring, well, you set it to 2 clicks.

The adjustment knob is on the shock, so you adjust you need to crawl on your hands and knees, and essentially adjust blin. People complain that this seizes up after a few years. But, I don’t think that really matters. My current setup is Protec shocks with a Performance 5 pigtail spring (the spring diaiameter is smaller and one end than the other), with Mk2 shock tops, bushes and Superpro bumpstops. On paper the springs are very stiff, double standard, but the ride is superb, well controlled, not at all crashy. I haven’t touched the shock settings in years (the brass adjusters have probably seized), but I’ve no reason to. They’re getting long in tooth now (2008-2009, and a lot of miles and one rebuild).

If fitting lowering (upgraded) springs, fit the right shocks to go with them. The AGX plus Eibach, with bit of time with the settings, can give a good, well controlled ride. Thats not the same as a soft ride. It will be firm, but its possible to be well controlled. Frequently when people complain of a rubbish ride after fitting lowering springs, its usually because the shocks aren’t up to it on poor road surface.

The AGX is OE quality. I can’t recommend retaining Showa springs and fitting lowering springs, to maintain originality (too much compromise); either get better shocks, or stick to factory spec springs.

The “OE” alternative to AGX is the Koni Sport; instead of grovelling on the ground, adjustment is via a top knob (the disadvantage is the top mounts have to be drilled, though it doesn’t really matter, because by the time you have to replace the Konis, the top mounts will have long collapsed). The AGX has fixed adjustments, but the Koni is stepless; what people have found is as the Koni ages, you can slightly turn it up to compensate.

There is also Gaz; the fixed height versions, which are basically equivalent to the AGX (adjustment on the body)

The AGXs are about £420 plus the springs, the Gaz are ~£480 including the springs, and Konis are £650 with springs. Showa are about £350 plus springs plus £140 for the Eibachs. On top of that you need to budget for 4 new bumpstops/gaiters (£40-50 a set, technically the Konis don’t need the gaiters).

If on a budget, the KYB sports kit is good enough (Excel G shocks with KYB’s own lowering spring).

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The later cars, post 1994, all rode higher. Not just Dakars.

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I’ve had people asking me about the KYB shocks after forking out for the Konis and then realising they were too stiff for normal roads. The Autolink springs are around £100 and are slightly lower than the standard height later models. The KYB’s were a bit bouncy on 2 but are better at 5 without been too hard

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Hi there, I fitted genuine shocks and autolink springs a couple of years ago on my 90
I find the ride really good, does however hit the stops occasionally on a ‘spirited’ drive.
‘Feature’ of the suspension travel on a MK1. Lots of people fit MK2 parts or Jass mounts to overcome I believe

very thorough reply that saz! much appreciated :smiley:

Hi Charlie, I have a 1995 Eunos V-Special, Last year i was in a similar position - wanting to improve the ride but not change the ride height etc. I did quite a bit of research and went for a set of Meister Sportive - these are a non damping coil over set up but come from meister set to standard ride height. Which is how i fitted them and left them. The car is an absolute gem to drive now following shock/spring replacement and alignment set up. Nice and supple no crashing or banging. Never had it hit the bump stops - even when on a spirited drive on a country road etc. Do some research and send the guys at meister an e-mail they’re very knowledgeable and helpful when it comes to the mk1 Mx5 (amongst other models)

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Hopefully they’ve done something about the paint they use on their springs by now.

Don’t know about that, as i said mine are only 18 months oldish with a few thousand miles under their belt but still look like new.