NBFL coil packs

My new fried in Canada has coil pack problems, he has a JDM NBFL 1.6L car, and one coil pack is kaput.Is this the same pack that is also used on the 1.8L model, and does anyone have a spare please - if so, how much (including fast shipping cost to Saskatchewan Canada?)

Hi Gerryn

The 1.6 coil pack is unique to the MK2 and MK2.5 1.6 car 1998 - 2005.

Often one unit goes initially but my advice would be to fit a complete known working Mazda coilpack and save the old working coil unit as a spare. 

From my experience they are the weakest of all of the cradled coilpacks, MK1 1.6 being the strongest.

Never leave ignition on with car not running and instruct garages/MOTers the same.

I sell these refurbished with a guarantee but lots around cheaper - will try to find one later and PM you a link.   



Thanks Rob (again!) - I still haven’t located a crystal blue passenger side mirror yet, one was too dark, and another while silver, had a crack in the base - where it swivels, so didn’t want to risk it.

The Canuck sent me a part number - B6MC-18-10XC - but no idea if it’s relevant or not. Don’t know what PCM is fitted, or if 1.8L coil packs are compatible with it or not? It’s a JDM 1.6L automatic, with no OBD port - just the normal NA type port under the bonnet. So - bit of a conundrum alround. He’s already had major problems locating a spare MAF sensor, as the original fell apart when he tried to clean the face of it. (with a Q tip) Fortunately it passed the Homolgation test, to allow registration in Sask. - But it’s been giving him problems since that, so he’s beginning to think he bought a lemon.

AFAIK neither the States or Canada ever imported a 1.6L car before, so number of spares over there are extremely rare. This is his first Mazda, so I’m trying to help him out, but like the MAF sensor - very difficult, and so far very expensive too.

That parts number relates to the Mk2.5 FL 1.6.

A metal frame held on to the back of the cylinder head with three bolts and holding two coil packs. Each coil pack feeds two cyliners via longish plugleads.

It appears to be very similar to the 1998 to 2000 Mk2, 1.6 coil pack with a similar though not identical parts number but I believe they are interchangable. The 1.8 Mk2 has a similar frame but two input sockets rather than one large input socket on the 1.6, therefore the Mk2 1.8 is not interchangeable

The 1.8 Mk2.5 FL car has two coil packs that sit on a spark plug and a lead comes out of each coil pack to feed the matching cylinder. If I remember cylinder 1 and 3 are a pair and cylinder 2 and 4 are a pair.

I believe from around 1993 or so there were no 1.6 engine capacity Miatas imported in the the US and Canada.


MK2 1.6 and Mk2.5  1.6 coilpacks have exactly the same part number on the coil units. The cradle/frame may have a different part number but is completely interchangeable.

The MK2/MK2.5 1.6 coilpack has a stub loom attached to the cradle that converts the two three pin low tension plugs that attach to the coil units into one six pin plug that joins the loom.

The MK2 1.8 has a similar cradled coilpack but no loom connector - just two three pin connectors that attach to the units. MK2 1.8 units are the same as MK1 1.8 units - the ones with three pins(one missing).

I have previous experience of a MK2 1.8 wired up to run on 1.6 coils successfully for a time but the practice is not recommended. Buy a MK2 or MK2.5 1.6 coilpack.     

H’mm - puzzling replies there - doesn’t anyone read my car details though, as some of this information does not relate to my Mk2.5, which has two independent coil packs located directly onto one plug, and one lead to it’s associated spark plug - no frame involved. However, pleased to know that part number does relate to an NBFL 1.6L engine, but other than Rob’s info, the rest is teaching an old dog new (and incorrect) details .Dunno which NBFL cars you’ve been looking at - but they weren’t the same as mine is. Sorry.

I will however, ask my friend if he has same mounts as I do, or separate leads and mounted on a frame on top of the engine. Mk 2.5 coil packs have been discussed on here several times, and the explanation has always been the same as mine is - above. Strange, very strange.


I think you should go and rest in a darkened room for a while, your last post makes no sence at all. Give your self some time to get your thoughts in order.

The posts in this thread make sence apart from your last post.

Rhino has now explained things more clearly, so I now understand that the coil packs are in the same place on a Mk2.5 1.6L as they are on a Mk1. not on top of the engine as they are on a 1.8L. No mention in previous posts that the location was the same as a Mk1. That would have been much clearer. “On the back of the cyclinder block” can be read several ways.

And yes - I knew all about American imports - thank you.

For anyone that may be interested…

MK1 - MK2.5 and Eunos Coils
All the units(1989 - 2005) are made by hansh/n except the MK1 1.6 which appears to be mitsubishi.

All mounted to back of engine on cradle apart from the MK2.5 1.8 where units mounted on top of cam cover.

All cradles can be dismantled and units interchanged apart from the MK1/Eunos 1600.

MK1 1600 - 1989 - 1998(Eunos and MK1) - Mitsubishi coilpack with combined unit in cradle - fixed wire connections with three pin connector that joins loom

MK1 1800 - 1993 - 1995(Eunos and pre-immobiliser MK1) - coilpack with two hansh/n DSC - 500 units in cradle, 4 pin. Low tension plugs directly off loom

MK1 1800 - 1996 - 1998(MK1 with immobiliser) - coilpack with two hansh/n DSC - 500B units in cradle, 3 pin(same as the 4 but missing PIN). Low tension plugs directly off loom

MK2 1800 - 1998 - 2000(Eunos and MK2) - coilpack with two hansh/n DSC - 500B units in cradle, 3 pin(same as MK1 above). Low tension plugs directly off loom

MK2/MK2.5 1600 - 1998 - 2005(Eunos, MK2 and MK2.5) - coilpack with two hansh/n DSC - 510 units in cradle, 3 pin. Low tension plugs on stub loom, six pin connector to main loom

MK2.5 1800 - 2001 - 2005(Eunos and MK2.5) - two hansh/n DSC - 1500, 3 pin. Low tension plugs directly off loom

Importers in Canada sound like a bunch of chancers, and Mazda North America will be extremely hardnosed. Basically, they will not support a grey import. If it wasn’t sold in Canada, they won’t want to know. A Canadian driver brought a newish grey import Previa Hybrid; Toyota Canada didn’t do a full size MPV hybrid, only a huge US-made truck like thing, with no hybrid option. He lost his key card while on a day out. Toyota Canda told him to ship his car back to Tokyo if he wanted a new key. In the end, a worldwide appeal yielded some helpful Kiwis to supply used ECU and matching keycards, after 6 months or so. I know its a bit late, and cars rot in Canada, but I wouldn’t touch a JDM import there; plenty of rust free cars across the border.

His first port of call should be his importer. Canadian dealers won’t have access to the worldwide EPC, unlike UK dealers, and couldn’t order him a part even if they wanted to. Importers are probably using the same flim flam as her, ignoring the fact that these cars are being exported because Japan has better ones in their domestic retail market.

Post #9 is very informative, and IMHO should be extracted from this thread and made sticky, either under electrics, or moved to technical area downloads, any Mod agree to this?

For Saz - the owner in question bought the car himself from a Japanese auction site, apparently his sons have also bought Japanese cars (different makes) the same way, and he fancied an MX5. But - he wanted a stick shift and his wife insisted on it being an automatic, which as you are aware, means he was restricted to a 1.6L model. He also imported it himself, but it was shipped to a different province, so he had to collect it from elsewhere. (Calgary IIRC) He told me the guy who tested it for acceptance also wanted to buy it, so whether it was found appealing or not remains to be seen. He drove it back from Calgary with no problems, but in his efforts to clean various parts (The airbox was filthy apparently) he lost the MAF, and had problems finding a replacement (so did I, but he solved that eventually). Now one coil pack was found faulty, so it looks like he has bought a car in some state of disrepair, but he wants to get out and drive it - don’t we all?

As you know, he isn’t getting much help from other owners either in the States or Canada, as his car is a loner in NA. One good reason why we should be able to help, and me being me, I offered to do what I can. - Call me stupid, but I hate to see any owner struggling. Plus I still feel part Canadian, despite being back here for over 40 odd years, so I have split allegiance to two flags. We are after all, part of a world wide community - N’est-ce pas?


Er, NB autos came in 1.6 and 1.8 flavours. When the NB Auto went on sale in the UK, it only came as a 1.8. Whoever said the Mk2 auto in Japan was a 1.6 only was incorrect.

NB-FL Japanese brochure, listing 1.6 and 1.8 autos:



Go to Japanese site for figuring out part numbers:


1.6 engine electrics:


Part number: B6 MC - 18 - 10 XC


Run it through Google Translate


He has several choices:


  1. He buys a new Mk2 1.6 coil pack from MX5parts or IL Motorsport. Genuine Mazda and aftermarket are listed, not a lot of difference in price. I’d go for the genuine part. Its listed for a reasonable £232, ex VAT. MX5parts charge a bargain £18.95 shipping to Canada. No VAT is payable, not sure about Canadian customs.

  2. He’ll buy an aftermarket (Chinese) part from Autolinkuk http://www.autolinkmx5.com/coil-pack-mazda-mx-5-16-mk2--mk25-1998-2005-b6mc1810xc-new-7659-p.asp, £75 plus VAT and post. Autolinkuk charge £27 for shipping to Canada

  3. He takes a chance on a used part. Its 50-50 on these. I fitted a used Mk2 coil pack to my Mk1 from Sulston Hills, who is breaking lots of Mk2s. It lasted about 3 weeks. Junk. US Breakers seem to charge £40-50 for these, when you can find one. There is effectively no come back when you buy overseas. He still have to pay £27 post to get a scrap part shipped. Bad option.


If it were my money, given the distance, I wouldn’t mess around. Just buy the genuine part. £250 isn’t a lot in the grand scheme of things. He’d have it by next week.

Saz - Pretty sure my 2000 year (dated) brochure for the NBFL only showed a 1.6L automatic, but I have to find it to be sure. If I’m wrong, then I’ll say so. - Watch this space - - – -!

Still haven’t found my 2000 brochure, however, this thread came up today - so I was wrong - I admit it it.













But it doesn’t really matter. The owner didn’t do his homework, and is now contending with the consequences of that. In the end, as there are at least 3 online sellers that will ship him quickly a choice of brand new parts, at an affordable price., its not that big a deal.