Thanks for all your advice so far, can I ask your opinion again?
How good is the 2.0 engine in the NC3.5, assuming it’s been well looked after?
I’ve viewed a 09 2.0 Sport Tech (PRHT) with 80k on the clock. It has a full DSR up to 60k, then receipts from an independent for the last 3 services. Gearbox (x2) and diff oils also documented as changed. Started sweetly from cold, no smoke, no rattles, pulled really well on the test drive with no issues.
Is there anything I should be aware or wary of at this sort of mileage?
Thanks folks, really appreciate your help! 
Generally bullet proof, that said I will be taking the engine out of a 2011 car tomorrow that’s done 66k
A proper Service history is key
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My research before buying mine came up with the following main engine component modifications from NC1-2.
I suspect they made some more too and increased the rev band as well.
The NC2 Mk 3.5 - 3.75 revisions to the 2.0 on manual transmission cars.
- New forged steel crankshaft.
- New forged steel connecting rods with floating wrist pins.
- Modified shell bearings.
- Revised pistons with stronger wrist (Gudgeon) pin bosses.
- Stiffer valve springs
As above and engine oil/filter changes every year no matter what mileage I do with quality fully synthetic oil (various brands which all do the same job). Some will be specific which brand but if it is the “Correct” specification job done.
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As said service history helps a lot. Mine full Mazda to 100k then owner serviced for last 18k. Car runs perfect but, regular maintenance is import still. I’ve just put a new battery on, AC needs attention, stuff like that but it is 11 years old now so I don’t mind that.
Barrie
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Mine is the 08 Sport with 104,000 miles. Full service history with receipts and stamps.
Changed the battery 6-months ago, and rear drop links last year. A rattle was traced to a loose heat shield on the exhaust. Starts first time, pulls well, no issues in the hot weather (another forum query from Barnsley_Rob refers).
Long may the mileage continue…
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I’ve seen well looked after ones with over 250k so i wouldn’t be too worried…
As said above service history is key but they are generally bullet proof
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My 2009 59 2.0 Sports Tech had nearly 100k on the clock when I changed it for a more practical car a few months ago, I had it since 2015 (62k miles) and had zero issues with the engine, as far as I could see from the service history the previous owners had no issues either.
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Mine is a 2005 NC1 launch edition 2.0, 65,000 miles and a daily driver. I currently travel 5000 miles per year I have self serviced it since my ownership in 2013, change oil and brake/clutch fluid every 2 years with no problems whatsoever. IMO a service history is not the key, but what is, is the oil and fluid changes.
Oil and fluid changes are service history surely.
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Oil and fluid changes are service history surely.
Nope, from experiance a service involves checking if oils and fliuds need replacing by testing their effectiveness and the engineer making a suggestion. Knowing engineers, as i do, they work on need to do things and don’t get hands dirty if not necessary.
That is why a service form is just a check list of 50 to 60 items.
Sorry, I must have been doing it all wrong for some 45 years.
If you change the oil and filter on your car and document it with purchase receipts and date of change, mileage and put that in the service book, (or else where) then that is “service history”. That aspect IS a point of service against the car no matter what take you have on it.
A Full or Minor service, depending what car etc will involve checking and changing certain components/fluids and other checks, i.e another aspect of “service history”.
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I am not discrediting anybody, I am purely suggesting that a service is a check list. Obviously there will be time and date. But apart from asking ‘‘did you CHANGE the engine oil and filter’’ the rest asks ‘‘Did you CHECK’’ and so it becomes a tick sheet and up the the engineer to make the decision.
Slight off topic digression…
I have been tempted by Oil Analysis Kits for years. Would love to have a chemical analysis telling me if the oil was still good, if there was iron in the oil telling of bore wear, copper and tins telling of shell or bearing wear etc.
Thing is, fresh oil and filter is cheaper than an Analysis. And not sure what I would do if there was trace of ‘wear indicating’ materials.
Might be different if I was running a fleet of commercial vehicles, but for a private car seems a bit pointless.
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