Hi All. I’m about to carry out my 5000 mile oil service @ 65,000 miles. After many hours of researching the forums here and across the pond, I’ve decided to use Mobil 1 0w40, which many say is the best fully synthetic you can get, also Mx5 parts sell it as an upgrade for the 2.0 Nc engine. The oil in the engine @ present is shell 5w30, and I’ve noticed just a small amount of consumption over the summer months. To be fair though it has been getting used to its potential.
Because I’m changing between two different oil grades, would anyone recommend using an oil flush? I’m not keen on the idea, but would it be beneficial to remove as much of the dirty 5w30 before introducing the new 0w40, to avoid any mixing?
I changed from a Semi-synth to the Mobil 1 New Life 0w40, and had it changed by my local Mazda accredited specialists (Godfreys of Horsham) as part of a service/check over before a 4000 mile road trip. On the basis they never charged for an oil flush I’m sure they never did one…
I’ve also read elsewhere that they’re unnecessary, have a chat to Opie Oils… they supplied my Mobil and were considerably cheaper than MX5Parts.
I’ve already purchased the 5L of Mobil 1 0w40 needed at the best price I could find. I’m definitely not keen on the idea of an oil flush, it more than likely doesn’t need it. I’m just trying to avoid the small residual amount of previous oil left within the internals contaminating the new oil of a different grade. i suppose modern engine flushes are designed to remove solid deposits rather than engine oil.
Do not use a flushing oil, particularly on a NC. They have little lubricating effect and are primarily used for removing sludge on poorly maintained engines. As has been found by people who haven’t maintained the oil level at the MAX level the NC engine bottom end is critical to good lubrication.
I would rather have a small amount of Shell oil mix with the Mobil 1 than flushing oil mix with it.
Those are my thoughts exactly, I’ve always kept the level @ the max mark, as I’ve never really had to top up much. Only after long enthusiastic tours, particularly with the past shell 5w30. About 300ml over the past 5000 miles, added on very small top up instances.
I’m afraid your research has been quite poor. Some years ago Mobil downgrade this particular oil and it is no longer a fully synthetic oil. It is an oil that is made from cracked hydrocarbons therefore is a type 3 oil not a type 4 or 5 which are fully synthetic. In fact if you had done your research you will find that Mobil complained about Castrol calling this type of oil fully synthetic but now are playing the same game as there is no legal benchmark re fully synthetic oil.
I have also challenged Opie Oils but they are no worse than other oil sellers on a number of occasions when the advise oil A is an upgrade over oil B. In all the occasions I have asked them to provide qualitative data to show what improvements oils A has over oil B with regard to wear metals etc. in a used oil analysis / engine strip down wear measure they have always advised they have no such data. I suggest you contact MX5 parts and try to get the non existent date that shows that New Life 0W/40 causes less engine wear than Mobil 3000 FE.
In fact Blackstone Labs in the states who analysis thousands of engine oil samples every month advise they can find no trends in used oil analysis data on any specific engine to show that any specified oil is any better than any other oil specified for a particular engines with regards to wear metals which is all it is about at the end of the day.
Sorry in this case you have gone to the trouble of using another oil that will neither improve or for that matter reduce the lubrication properties therefore wear in your engine.
As New Life it is a 40 grade oil there may be a very small decrease in oil consumption with a small increase in fuel usage over 30 grade oil used previously.
As the oils you have used in your car to date have been modern multi grade oils without taking the sump off your car, I strongly suggest your engine will be a clean as a whistle internally in the oilways due to regular oil changes with good quality oils.
Mobil New Age also has a very aggressive cleaning package that is not needed in a petrol engine like the MX5 nor in engines that have regular oil changes at shorter intervals like you engine is treated to.
As I have posted a few times on this forum the NC1 engine can use oil if run at 4,000 revs and above for long periods, some NC1 engines do use oil, mine does but under most of the mileage that my NC1 does not above 4,000 rpm. I have virtually no oil use between changes.
As you have used modern oils with regular changes there is no reason at all to use flushing oil.
Can I suggest unless someone come up with qualitative data that you purchase oils whose grade is as specified by Mazda at the best price for that type of oil specified by Mazda.
Quite. I’ve no idea why this is quoted as an ‘upgrade’. I’m always suspicious of third party recommendations which ‘improve’ on the makers recommendations. 0W - 40 is really only needed in hotter climates than UK. I’ve no problem with a 0w as the 0W improves cold start lubrication, but, theoretically at least, a 40 will have a lower oil circulation rate at normal operating temperature, because the oil relief valve is releasing more flow to restrict the pressure. It may actually be considered a downgrade, therefore.
Modern engine are designed to operate on modern low viscosity oils for good reason and I wouldn’t suggest deviating from Mazda’s recommendation.
I’d agree it is completely unnecessary to use a flushing oil with modern oils and regular changes.
I would agree with Eddie that using Mobil 1 in a 2007 NC is unnecessary unless you are pushing the engine to its limits or looking for high mileages between oil changes.
Oils such as Mobil 1 were developed for the newer high power, low capacity, turbocharged engines where the oil is not only lubricating the engine but also a high speed turbocharger and also for engines with extended service intervals. As neither of these applies to the NC then I would personally stick with Mobil Super 3000.
Interesting comments re Mobil 1. I’ve no idea about the rights or wrongs of it but my car has run on it since its very first oil change. I t uses hardly any oil between services and still runs like new. I expect there are others who use a different oil and can say the same, so perhaps it’s just a case of you pay your money and take your choice.
I put the Mobil 1 New Life 0W-40 in prior to a months trip in the higher temperatures of Italy and Greece, reasoning that I would not be doing the engine anything other than good, well, certainly no harm anyway.
The Service Dept at the Mazda Garage said that the standard semi-synth would have been more than adequate under those conditions, but having already bought the oil in it went!
It hadn’t used any oil on the trip nor after it, and as I have another 5 litres I’ll be using it for the next service as well…
Whichever Oil you decide to put in your MX5, Europarts are offering 50% discount on all oils bought online this bank holiday weekend, you need to use the code HOLIDAY50 not the Holiday75 which comes up on the website.
Happy oil change to all.
Much of my research was not involved with pouring over the numbers and grades all of the that the oil companies and moderating bodies impose. I paid particular interest with what people’s experiences with the oil has been in comparison to that specified for a vehicle not just the mx5. I did state that mx5 parts were selling it as an upgrade but I didn’t believe it to be an upgrade myself. From what I can tell from previous posts the oil should suit my recuirments very well. I drive very spirited with high revving. As a daily driver I would have the added protection on cold winter mornings on start up. Thanks to all.
New to the MX5 world I have recently acquired a Mk3 1.8 first registered in 2008. The car came with a Mazda MX5 Owner’s Manual and service record. I note that at about this time every year the engine oil and filter have been changed.
First question that came to mind was “Which type of Oil?” 5-30 or Mobil1 Ow40?
Next question: “If I top up the engine oil what is the correct level on the dipstick?”
I see from various entries in various sections of the forum that a number of forum members advocate that for a Mk3 one should ensure that the engine oil is topped up to the ‘Full’ mark on the dipstick having ensured that the car has been standing on level ground for some time prior to checking the oil level before and after topping up.
My Mazda MX5 Owner’s Manual is dated Oct. 2007(Print 3). In Section 8 (Owner Maintenance) -17 there is a diagram of the dipstick clearly indicating that providing the engine oil level is between ‘Low’ and ‘Full’ then that is OK. On page 8-18 there is a CAUTION diagram indicating “Don’t add engine oil over Full. This may cause engine damage.”
Perhaps more experienced forum members can tell me why there seems to be a strong climate of opinion that a MK3 must always have the engine oil topped up to, but not beyond ‘Full.’ Or is the latter just a myth that has become implanted in the MX5 Mk3 community over the years?
Plenty of suggestions on how to read the “not so easy to read dipstick” but just remember to keep the oil up to the upper mark on the stick (whichever one you have/get) and you’ll be fine.
BTW I use Mobil Super 3000 X1 FE Engine Oil - 5W-30, it’s fine for the NC and my preference, I don’t see any point in paying more for the above mention oil.
Just a point for OP to think about regarding flushing oil, I realise that it is not being considered as an option now, but, on the same basis that concerns were expressed over residual “old” oil mixing with the new, then residual flushing oil held within the engine after draining, could also mix with the new oil If used? That would probably be a worse scenario than old and new engine oils together! If carrying out the work oneself, a longer drain time might be allowed, as opposed to a garage that may just get the bulk of the old oil out and refit the drain plug. This would ensure as much of the old oil was emptied out. That’s why I like to undertake as much of the service/ maintenance work myself, at least I know I’ve done the best I can and not working against the clock to get the job done. I also quite enjoy doing it
Modern oils contain detergents which do the same job as a flushing oil.
I have used flushing oil in the past, but that was on a re-manufactured engine of another make, last time almost twenty years ago. After running the car as recommended for a short time at low power, I subsequently carried out two oil and filter changes, in short succession, to ensure all of the flushing oil was washed out as well as it could be.
When I bought my MX-5 NB I couldn’t find evidence that a scheduled oil change had been done so I did one change almost immediately, ran the car for a few hundred miles, then did another (needless to say, I always fit a new filter, too).
All I’d say about the best oil brand, type and grade is that there are almost as many personal opinions about it as there are about the best type of tyres to fit! If you say on almost any car forum that you used a particular oil, some troll will soon pop up to tell you that you completely screwed up. I can’t actually recall a case of a modern, mainstream brand of oil being implicated in an engine failure of a modern car. However, I know that certain Mk3 owners have neglected to correctly carry out timely oil changes and levels, to their great personal expense.
However, I don’t use “supermarket” brand oil in any engine - I might use it in my oil can though. I suspect it’s cheap for a reason.