Hi,
Can anyone tell me if the OEM sump on the NC 3.5 2010 is baffled or not? I ask as there are"upgrade" baffled options but then also some OEM option without baffles and some with?
Plan to track it hence the question.
Can’t answer your 3.5 sump question precisely but I tracked my 120k 2 litre NC1 for around 2yrs and a dozen or more track days without the slightest problem of oil starvation using MRF ZTR tyres which are quite a sticky track focussed tyre.
If I hadn’t changed the engine for a built turbo option, I’d still be using it…
thanks for the reply. Interesting that you said you went for the turbo option as that is why I am asking as I recently bought a BBR stage2 Turbo which the question relates to. I realise that just because its a turbo it doesn’t necessarily mean the car or I would be approaching corners any quicker, mainly due to lack of ability 
but nevertheless its possible but also, just want to know/peace of mind?
True, without aero bits, the cornering speeds are not going to be that much up although mechanical grip with MRF tyres increases it over road tyres, before it’ll snap away.
The point I was making was my original engine (NC1) would pound round track all day and I’m pretty sure that had no sump baffle in it from the factory.
How are you finding your BBR car ? Does it light you up ? 
Yeah get your point and good to know. BBR is lively to be fair! I came from a supercharged VX220 probably similar bhp/tonne but need something more “practical” that I can park at the station/take on the M1 every now and then but also for fun! I am thinking heat management might be something that I need to look into but until I get it on track won’t know if that’s an issue.
I don’t tend to struggle with heat management if I’m honest.
12-15 lap sessions sees the oil up to around 117 degrees so a slow, off throttle lap then a bonnet up cooldown in the paddock (and a mental cool down for me) for 15 mins keeps my turbo in check.
I have a turbo jacket on the hot side which works very well.
I do change the oil/filter every 2500-3000 miles 'cos I’m a firm believer in good “life blood” in the engine. 10/60 synthetic.
Have fun 
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You will not have an issue on track with the standard sump so long as you keep it topped up
I’ve literally done thousands of laps in the NC
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10/60? Another conversation that one…
Enter Paul with just when I hoped he’d chip in. The proofs in the pudding 
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What do BBR suggest you run yours on ?
They didn’t. I bought it last week post conversion which was a DIY (got it inspected today which unearthed a couple of things but nothing too sinister). I got the oil (Millers 5w 40), gearbox oil and diff oil changed and working through a number of things over the winter prior to getting out on track
The reason I asked was when I looked about I found things like this link that suggest its baffled already - https://www.mazspec.co.uk/products/genuine-mazda-sump-pan-oil-baffles-lfe2-10-400d-mx5-mk3-3-5-3-75
They are …….
which would explain perhaps why no issues on track with starvation and hence the original question. I did get really different responses on searches such as this, hence why I asked https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/carparts-online/oil-sump/mazda-mx-5/mx-5-iii-nc
Paul, did this apply to the NC 1 do you know ? Is the sump pan the same across the NC board so to speak ?
Yes all the NC sumps are the same design