Hi, I have a 2006 NC 2.0 Sport which I purchased last winter. Since having the car the lights have never flashed on locking/unlocking and its starting to bug me so I want to get them working.
The car is well maintained and everything else appears to work as it should, all I have had to do since owning it is change the thermostat and it passed its MOT with no advisories a couple of weeks ago.
It seems from reading around that either the bonnet switch or boot switch could be the cause - I have disconnected the bonnet switch and checked there is power to it - what I need to know please is how I bypass the switch to check if it is that. Do I simply connect the 2 pins on the car side of the connector to do this (and likewise on the boot switch if the bonnet switch is OK)?
Google nc miata hood switch and it’s the first result below the video listings
There should be continuity between switch terminals with open bonnet and no continuity with bonnet closed. My twisted logic would suggest just disconnecting the connector should simulate a properly closed bonnet as far as the alarm system goes
Thanks for your reply, will have a look in the morning.
Quick question if I may, do I just check between the 2 terminals with a multimeter and no need to earth it, as the negative battery cable is disconnected?
Have tried it previously with it disconnected but made no difference which could point to the boot switch instead possibly?
Yes just check between two switch terminals for continuity or not depending on whether the bonnet latch is open or locked. As the guide says make sure you unlatch to the open position with bonnet pull immediately after test and before closing the bonnet to avoid damage.
That’s great, thanks. Will update on Sunday once I have checked it. It’s a weekend car that’s garaged and it was persisting down too much to do tonight as I reverse the car in and need to raise the garage door to have sufficient room to access under the bonnet.
Quick update. I disconnected the negative battery terminal and tried the catch side of the terminal in both latched and unlatched position and got a zero reading in both cases, so I assume it is goosed.
After reconnecting the battery terminal I tried the car side of the switch and get a reading of up to 0.38 so there is power reaching there.
As a temporary measure, I assume that if I put a jumper cable between the 2 pins on the car side (top picture) this would complete the circuit?
A quick look on eBay suggests a replacement can be had for around £15 but I need to check the electrical plug has been tested and confirmed working.
I have also reset the DSC as the lights were on.
There should be no connection between the two pins on the car side connector when the bonnet is closed. If you want to simulate a closed bonnet to test the alarm light function then just leave the switch disconnected from the car loom.
I’m assuming you are using a multimeter set to 2k ohms for continuity testing
Thanks for your reply. Think I best check again with the multimeter and that it was on the right setting as I assume I should get a reading of some description rather than zero?
On 2000k ohm scale when testing across the switch contacts 0 would indicate continuity or switch contacts closed. A reading of 1 would indicate no continuity or switch contacts open
OK, I have completed the check again (and with correct settings on the multimeter this time). With the bonnet catch unlocked the reading is 1 and when it’s locked 0, which I believe means it is working correctly? I will check the boot catch which I assume is the same process as the bonnet.
Bit of a delay cracking on with this as work, holiday, life etc got in the way for a few weeks! Anyway, managed to check the boot lock / switch today and got similar readings to the bonnet which means both these are OK and the fault lies elsewhere.
Is the only other possibility that its either (or possibly both) door switches and nothing else?
