NC clutch replacement

Hi all


I have had my NC/MK3 2.0 sport for over two years now. Clutch is starting to get heavier, no sign of slipping, but heavy , sometimes doesn’t disengage ( I get the famous 6 speed sticky box problems)  And also an occasional judder 

anyway, it’s got worse over the last couple of weeks, anyone had one replaced recently, and whats The likely cost?  Could it be the slave cylinder? 


I guess it’s not a easy DIY job, last clutch I replaced was in 1985 and I’m not really up to scrabbling around on the floor with a gearbox on my chest these days. once I know the likely cost, I can start to cast around locally for someone to do it 

I think you need to do less posting and take it to a trusted local garage for their opinion.

If you do not have one get some local recommendations’.

You appear to be at that point in life when getting under a car is not the best place to be.

This is not a recommendation for Mr Clutch but if you go on their web site and fill in the details I believe they will give you a quote. This will give you a ball park figure to work with.


Suspect other clutch centres will also give quote so worth a google!


Thanks. This is more positive than the previous response! If all forums suggested I visit a local garage, then the forum would be very quiet,
will try what you suggest , my local garage has proved a bit of a money pit so I am keen to avoid them.

I’m happy and indeed Able to change the slave cylinder at home  if that’s what others suggest .

Thanks again Richard.
Mr clutch has quoted just under £400. A new clutch from Euro car parts is just under £160, so that helps me understand the cost better.
There was some useful stuff on the mr clutch website, which mentioned clutch drag (which I am suffering), and biting point is quite low, so I think I will look at the slave cylinder first to look at any leaks and check there is full movement.
Bleeding may improve things short terms, but given It is 14 years old and has covered over 100k miles, Replacement can’t make things worse
I’ll keep you posted as to progress

After bleeding, also check the pedal operating point, the pedal bearings wear and the operating point lowers.  About a single turn on the adjustment can make a big difference.  I fixed mine here, Mellens manual link added

The clutch pedal bite point adjustment transformed my heavy and low bite point clutch pedal.


The link below was kindly supplied to me by a fellow owners club member. The photographs and adjustment instructions are very helpful.


Three quarters of a turn on the connecting rod was sufficient to improve my clutch pedal.


Thanks chaps. I have looked at this adjustment previously but access is all but impossible, I think I will whip the seat out, as that will allow far better access than curving my spine across the sill! Will keep u posted

You could do it yourself if you have enough space and if you get stuck a mobile mechanics can come out to help. My last clutch change was also in 1985 !

I’d go for the adjustment first, it transformed my MK3. The guy that did it removed the clutch
pedal as he felt that was easier than standing on his head in the footwell.

Why on earth did Mazda make clutch adjustment so horrendously difficult ? 

Back in my day (!) if a clutch was hydraulically operated, there was often no adjustment at all.  If the clutch was cable operated, the adjustment was done at the bottom end of the cable, where it passed though a hole in the release fork, was simplicity itself to get at, and took about two minutes to adjust !  Progress eh ? 

Hi all. I managed to find an hour and get in the footwell. Took a while to suss out which nut to turn which way. There was a bit of slack in the clutch travel which I’ve all but taken out. Unfortunately, the gearchnage is still notchy when cold (first half a mile or so) I think I am suffering from the notchy 6speed box issue, but I will have a go at the slave cylinder next . Will let you know how I get on

I’m on my third NC, all of them 1.8ltr 5 speed gearbox models.

They have all had a notchy gear change when cold but are ok after a couple of miles or so when the oil warms up.

Hi there seems to be a load of stuff on the forum about the sticky gearbox but can anyone help with the actual cause/remedy? Mine is a 2009 2.0 Sport 56,000miles and is terrible from 1st to 2nd when cold. Is it the gearbox, the clutch, the gear lever bushes? I have changed the oil which has vastly improved the box overall and am happy tinkering with the spanners but am just looking at where to start.

EuroCarParts has 2 clutch kits, one at about £140 and another at about £170.
Id expect at least 4-6 hours work.
Based on this, I’d say that a ball park figure for a clutch fitted would be in the region of £350 - £500

My daughter has just had a new clutch kit in her Suzuki Swift.

The work was done at our local Suzuki dealership and is covered by a 2 year warranty. Total cost £395 which I thought was reasonable for a main dealer. It was a 4 hour job.

Some of the independent garages were quoting £500.

Try topping up the turret. It helped me too

The gearchange from 1st to 2nd on my 2012 2.0 Sport’s always been a bit difficult from cold, ever since I bought the car new. Just need to pause slightly when going through neutral. I believe that they’re all like that, I’ve seen a description of the gearbox as “agricultural” (!). Had several routine gear oil changes during the 8 years I’ve had the car & no difference.

If the clutch is dragging - causing difficult gear selection - then it may just need adjusting. One check for a dragging clutch is to select 1st with the engine running, back to neutral while keeping the pedal down then back into 1st - there should be no resistance when you go into 1st on the second occasion. Another check is that, with the pedal down, the engine revs should be the same in neutral & in 1st: if the revs drop noticeably in 1st that can indicate that the clutch isn’t fully disengaging.

Yes as above just change your change technique, a pause as you pass from 1st to 2nd. Also I find it helpful applying a little side pressure to the shifter instead of a firm like grip and sort of forcing it from one to the other gear.
Done the turret oil and greased the upper ball part of the shifter twice now with a slight improvement, gear oil changed too. By far a greater help was making the adjustment at the pedal, just a slight tweak to bring that pedal off the mat for a more comfortable change to all gears.
Must say it’s still notchy when cold but soon forgotten about when warmed up.
Castrol Syntrans helps in the box.