I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __
Hi could anyone help with any tips for the above I’ve got all the fixings out but I’m struggling getting the manifold to clear the studs because of the steering column - I’m having to do the job on my own as I have covid so ant assistance would be appreciated (I’ve not took the lower heat shield off yet - is this required)
If I drop the lower fixing for the steering column off will this help
Have you removed the 2 nuts holding the cat to the engine block? It has a bracket you can only see from underneath.
I removed the 2 sensors before trying to lift out the manifold. They can be accessed through the wheel arch.
If so then brute force worked - as that’s what I did.
Removed the shields I could remove
Undid all the manifold nuts
Undid the 2 sensors in the downpipe
Undid the 2 nuts holding the cat the the bracket that connects to the block
Undid the 2 nuts that hold the downpipe to the middle pipe
Then brute force to pull off the studs then lift up.
HELP…ncfl 2013 been working on it for a week, trying to get the inlet manifold off to change the Knock sensor and PCV valve. CANNOT locate the lower bolts, been searching for days, got the one behind the brake pipe, but the others..NO in total I have removed 5. If I could find a current download for a workshop manual I would gladly pay for it…does anyone have information on this problem…please
Thanks for the advice RichardFX but I can’t get onto the Mellens site, for some reason it just comes up ‘402 forbidden’ or the computer just hangs, so I thought that mellens was no longer accessible.
Hi PaleRider…that is just what I’m looking for, but the weird thing is that I have taken 5 bolts out!. But now I think I have missed the middle bottom bolt, I did see it but it didn’t seem to be part of holding the plastic manifold, and I was wary of undoing it incase it caused a problem…Looking at this video, it looks like I have striped off much more than I needed to, but I used the 'Haynes manual as a guide. I think now that I didn’t need to take out the fuel rail and injectors which has cost more in new seals which are expensive. The car has only done 24k miles and the engine is clean as a whistle (at the moment) Thank you again for taking time to answer my post, it is much appreciated.
I’m not upgrading the pcv valve, as I already bought a Mazda like for like one. So…it was the middle bolt that was holding it, the manifold is now loose, but still won’t come off as there seems to be some kind of connection up against the firewall, any thoughts on this?, I’ve been out there again this morning, can’t believe this is turning out to be so difficult!
Thanks again, I’ve been trying to lever it off with door car trim tools, but can only go so far as I am concerned about causing damage. Thinking about going in through the inner wheel arch…
Beech PM’d me to which I replied. I’ve also posted my reply here for the benefit of others if its of any help.
“I’d guess that you’re stuck on the EGR pipe. I’ve attached an image if that’s of any help. You’ll have to undo the nut (marked 50-60 Nm) with a big open ended spanner. I can’t recall the size, but it’s a bit of a pig and you’ll probably have to just turn it one flat at a time.
Let me know if you want anymore pointers, can you supply your VIN if you do though please.
When you’re reinstalling the manifold, take proper care to make sure that the PCV pipe is installed correctly, I’ve known people build it all up again to find the PCV pipe wasn’t fully fitted creating a massive air leak and then them having to take it all apart again.”
THANK YOU so much! Knowledge certainly is power!..
Could you recommend a workshop manual that specially covers the NCFL 3.75 2013 please. I have got a link to autodigimanual but not sure if they are legit and don’t want to download any malware onto my computer…
Nah, engines are power!..So true! Our little 2.ltr Venture will soon be back cruising the French roads, following your advice.
Update…the intake manifold is now out, thanks to an old imperial spanner, heavily modified..hahahaha. Now to replace the knock sensor, PCV value, all the gaskets, AND then put it all back together. Don’t think I will ever complain about working on the Land Rover ever again after this:see_no_evil_monkey: