With my NC resting over winter I noticed it has had a little accident, a nice puddle of oil coming from the rear of the engine!
So, a nice little job to remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel to replace the rear main seal…
First off the center console and gear stick are removed.
Next under the car, remove the two middle under braces (the brace attached to the front subframe can stay where it is), remove the slave cylinder, drain the gearbox, remove the exhaust centre section, propshaft and wiring around the starter motor. The official workshop manual says loosen the starter motor, but the access to the top bolt is really in-accessible, I didn’t really see why this was required so left it be. I also drained the engine oil as I was changing it anyway but I’m not sure if this is strictly necessary.
Next support the gearbox and remove the PPF, the gearbox can then be lowered to get access to the top three bolts and wiring loom. I made a custom gearbox cradle and jacking jig which sits on a dolly (alternatively buy one 
). With the box lowered the four wiring clips can be disconnected with one hand from inside the car, I marked them with a paint pen and un-clipped the wiring from the top of the box. Next, raid your tool kit for every extension bar you have and remove the top three bolts (arrowed).
Next I returned the box to its level position and removed the remaining bolts and 2x nuts, there are 11 fastenings in total, two face towards the rear of the car. The box can then be slid backwards and lowered out of the way.
Next lock the flywheel and remove the clutch pressure plate (6x10mm) and friction disk followed by the flywheel (6x19mm)
Finally, there’s the Badger!!, the replacement comes with an alignment tool which slides the new seal over the end of the crank. 6x8mm bolts@ 10Nm, apply sealant to the sump mating face. The clutch needs to be centred as you torque it down.
Re-assembly torques, Flywheel - 112Nm, Clutch plate - 30Nm and gearbox 50Nm
Replace the flywheel bolts if removed
