Engine began burning oil without me noticing. Oil level ran low for quite a while…
Everything I’ve read suggests new engine but wanted to check with the experts. Some documented cases where it was belt tensioners or the solenoid.
Wasn’t planning on 2.5 swapping so soon!
Sounds almost identical to mine, which is bottom end. Advice I was given was first to pop the belt off and see if it still rattles, as that’s another possible cause and it inly takes 5 minutes so theres no reason not to, even though it’s not likely. Then, drop and examine oil and cut open filter.
I’m in the same boat, was planning a swap but not yet! 2,5s a bit thin on the ground right now so I’m slapping a cheap 2.0 in it for now
“Oil level ran low for quite a while…”
I think the answer is there.
Not wishing to be impertinent but…you don’t really “do maintenance” (eg dip-sticking) going by the current under-bonnet appearance? I’m puzzled to understand how you know the oil level ran low if…you were not ( apparently) checking.
Anyway …
I’d not do much more revving until the issue is isolated.
I’d also keep the reg plate out of view…pending outcomes.
This situation, as I understand it, is more the preserve of earlier (?) 1800s but not so much 2000’s so you may be lucky. I’m happy to be corrected on that.
Just noticed your forum name.
That’s not to mock of course, does sound that way.
Hmmm, obviously never ideal to let oil run low.
When you say “quite” a while how long and how much did you put back in?
From your video I would also investigate cam chain/tensioner as well.
Not 100% sure it’s all bottom end knock TBH.
The initial knock sounds bottom end (ish) on tickover.
But after revving and on the over run it sounds a bit chain rattle. 
Just an opinion. 
Always difficult to make a proper diagnosis of engine noises remotely and with sound from a phone. Looks like a number of different problems any one of which is not good. Lack of oil even in the short term will quickly lead to main or big end bearing problems both of which can possibly be heard in the video. Longer term it can cause excessive camshaft / cam follower and timing chain wear which can also be heard.
I would get the car to or get an expert to actually see and hear the car and give you a proper diagnosis and potential repair costs which will not be cheap. If it’s a full rebuild you will be looking at well over £1000, depending on the actual damage. Worst case it’s a replacement engine.
Any easy way to identify if it’s chain rattle?
I had the aux belt off this afternoon and there was still a rattle but definitely much less of it. Although this may have been due to cold engine.
Had a few quotes for a new engine / rebuild. £2500 give or take + VAT 
Considering what I paid for the car, wouldn’t make sense to pursue.
At this point I think I’m just going to cut my losses and sell for spares / repairs.
How long do people think I can run the engine before it completely goes? Might just run it until it goes out with style.
That’s a complete unknown really and depends massively on how you drive it. My advice would be to stick to the bus routes !!
I’ve spotted some new bearings for £60.
Any reason I shouldn’t try to just replace the bearings? Guessing it’s a fools errand.
I’d be happy to do it even if it meant I only got another couple thousand miles out of the engine.
Only replacing the bearings could be a short ticket approach because if (and very likely it is) the crank is damaged by the old damaged bearing, it’ll kill off the new bearings quicker.
There’s not really a band aid way out of this sadly …
If I was you I wouldn’t bother spending any money on it at all except for half an hour’s labour at a really professional independent garage that knows his/hers stuff.
Then perhaps make a decision on what to do.
Sticking to bus routes made me chuckle!
PS sorry that was meant for the poster.
Great forum name but in very unfortunate circumstances, sorry to hear that.
I have been down the rabbit hole of having noises on my NC1 2.0 investigated, that sound similar to yours. Like you, I have been quoted ~£2500 plus VAT by a few local places for a full rebuild, so that sounds about right.
I tried and hoped it would be a timing chain / tensioner issue, having also investigate the serpentine belt. Unfortunately spending out on both didn’t solve the problem, so more intrusive work now needed.
Like you, I’m torn - given value of car, unsure what to do with it. Would miss it dearly if it had to be broken, but equally the concept of spending out what it’s worth to get the issue addressed just doesn’t feel economic to me.
The other idea I’m toying with is on the other end of the spectrum. Rather than getting the 2.0 rebuilt, perhaps swap for a 2.5l. Does anyone have any idea of costs for doing so? A few folks have popped up and mentioned this. Is it a fairly straightforward job? If I can man maths this for sake of a performance gain it might start to feel more viable, but would happily take any advice on this if anyone has experience.
Not meaning to hijack your threat at all. Just wanting to bring to the virtual table a couple potential routes that Mk3 owners have taken when their 2.0l goes ka-poot.
All the best, Adam
I think you’re looking to be in the 4k ballpark for that.
Hmmmm that being the case, I’ll pass
£3000 all in from Nippon autospares Derby or was a while ago.
Maybe worth a call?
NC1 2.0 engines are very very sensitive to oil level. if you ran it “low” (what does that even mean) then the bottom end has gone. Your vid sounds like bottom end knock. if you are very mechanically minded you could give it a go but it’s really not a simple job, either full engine swap or sell it off for spares. Sorry to say but your username is on the money
When I was thinking about 2.5 swaps this was what I was going to go with.
I’d love to do it but unfortunately the insurance premiums because of my age are in excess of £3k with the modified engine 
How long do people think I can run the engine before it completely goes? Might just run it until it goes out with style.
It’s anyone’s guess. I bought mine already knocking and drove it from Reading to Edinburgh, it didn’t get any worse. Took it to a trackday for lolz, and it did get a bit worse but still ran just fine, just sounded hellish.
But, it could have nipped up and spun the bearing at any time- it’s not really a “slowly wearing out” scenario- though it will worsen til failure’s inevitable- but more that with every revolution there’s a small chance of total failure.
Are NC 1.8 as sensitive as 2.0s ?