I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __fluid changes
Just finished changing the 6sp gearbox oil - pure filth, don’t think it had ever been changed despite ‘full mazda service history’ and 56K miles. Disgraceful, black sludge, magnet on the plug well covered with ferrous particles. Isn’t it a service item? They had changed the diff oil, but not the gearbox. Anyhoo…
Power steering fluid change won’t be far now I’ve got it raised on all fours. Any recommendations on how it’s best tackled? Anyone has disconnected the return and poured the old stuff in a bucket while turning the steering wheel (raised wheels). Saw a couple of youtube videos, but not sure if it’s a good idea with the MX-5
Coolant is next, got 10lts FL22 waiting along with an overflow funnel kit from fleabay - any tips or gotchas?
Clutch fluid: is the nipple accessible? If so, where would I look for it?
Suck oiit the original pas fluid from the reservoir and refill. Turn the car on and cycle the steering from lock as many times as you’re happy. Repeat the process until you’re happy that it’s all clear and clean. I went through about 1.5 litres till I was happy.
Hi mate, just done mine last month, (2013 Sport tech).
I actually bought some distilled water (a while ago) to give it a flush.
I drained it out and was basically clean as the day it went in so actually no point whatsoever to flush.
Which is actually more trouble than it’s worth.
I also bought a new thermostat to fit at the same time, but all was working so left well alone, (still on the shelf).
I followed this tip (I think from Robbie) and worked a treat.
Still got about 4 litres left too.
Refit drain plug, fill with new coolant (slowly) via header tank. Start engine and once at operating temp cycle 4 times through the following. Run engine at 2500 revs for 5 mins . Run at 3000 revs for 10 seconds .
The clutch fluid receives the same fluid from the brake master cylinder.
Just use normal DOT 4 is fine and brand of your choice.
Basically if you look underneath where the engine oil filter is you will see it.
I would recommend you DO NOT allow the level to go lower than the lower mark.
From experience I would also use a power bleeder for that aspect next time.
As I unfortunately got an airlock and couldn’t get it out without removing everything and starting again.
A right faff and others have also experienced that problem.
Good luck.
As per Deans suggestion on the PAS fluid.
I used a syringe to remove as much fluid as I could from the reservoir.
Refilled it.
Ran the engine and rotated the steering lock to lock about a dozen times.
Then kept repeating the process until all the new fluid had been used up.
As for the radiator, I’ve not done mine yet. Mine still looks remarkably clean, and as the car is garaged in winter, I’ve no concerns over freezing.
However, if I did change it then I’d drop what I can out of the radiator, refill, and perform the same.
I wouldn’t be overly concerned about training to change every last drop.
I had exactly the scenario you described, my missus was keeping an eye on the fluid level while I was under the car, I got her to pump the clutch and she lost the pedal. She had been looking at the front of the reservoir, the back half was empty. A top up and using a speed bleed brought it straight back .
FYI.
Like you done the gearbox oil.
I originally used Total GL4/5 75w-90.
After the change I did notice it became a little “notchy” where it never was before.
I won’t bore you with gearbox’s and make up etc.
But it’s best to put a GL4 ONLY oil in.
I replaced the Total after a short while with Castrol Transmax Manual 75W-90 which is GL4 based only.
There are others Redline etc (but not many).
Of course yours maybe fine and you may have actually used a GL4 one only anyway.
in all seriousness though it wasn’t an issue once I went and bought the speed bleed.