NC3 - Rust - Too much to hope for

Hi Folks,

firstly - many thanks for all the information and knowledge listed on the site.

I’ve been lurking in here for a couple of weeks gleaning as much info as possible before hopefully purchasing a 06-08 NC3.

I’ve learned most of the weak spots and armed with this info I headed off a few days ago to view 4 different cars.

I came away without a car and a bit disappointed with the rust present on each of the ones I viewed.

Rust blistering on boot lids, inside rear wheel arches and around the side repeaters was present, in varying degrees, on all four cars I viewed.

I thought the NC3 was galvanised and didn’t expect to see so much blistering and rust.

So my question is - Am I likely to find a rust free example of this age or am I going to have to up my budget and buy something a bit newer???

Cheers,

Tam

 

 

 

 

 

Just for clarification, NC3 refers the third stage of the NC generation in 2013.

Finding a ten year old mx5 with no rust will be a challenge.  Why did you think they were galvanised?  Rust protection is minimal and has been since 1989

Hi Tam,

They aren’t galvanised unfortunately, rust as you describe is startping to become more apparent at that age group, you will be able to find unblemished examples, preferably those that have lived in salt free area and/or have not been used when salt is on the roads.

Ian

take your time , dont rush , one will always turn up

Andy / Ian

thanks for the quick replies. I thought I read on here somewhere that the NC model (thanks for the clarification Andy) onwards was galvanised. Obviously I misunderstood, easily done given the amount of reading on the subject I’ve done over the last couple of weeks.

Might look at low mileage examples of that age in the hope they were not used over the winters or consider up-ing the budget.

Thanks again.

Tam

If your budget can stretch to an NC2 (also called 3.5), the first facelift model you get some amendments such as a slightly lower roll center and a stronger engine which while not essential are nice to haves.

Remembered where I has seen the info about galvanisation -

From the Mk 3 Buyers guide on this site -

“Importantly the body is Galvanised with clever details like plastic sill covers, they have a 12 year rust warranty (if stamped).”

The boot lid won’t rust as it is aluminium…what you are looking at in that area is oxidation, which usually starts around the number plate lights…if treated quickly it’s really not a problem, let it spread and eventually it will start to lift the paint…

After owning two Mk1s I wanted a Mk3. In particular I wanted a ZSport. I missed out on a couple of really good looking ones that sold very quickly. I spoke to dealers about a couple more and they didn’t sound quite right. I looked at two, one was good but a little pricey, the other a dog.

Next step was to start a thread on here entitled ‘Looking for a ZSport’. Within a couple of days I had two replies. Both cars were much loved examples and both so close to perfect that it was a difficult choice. Came down to price, mileage, extras and most importantly gut feel about the car and the seller.

Four years on I’ve still got the car, still love it, still think I made the right choice. Plus the seller MX5 8ARY is now a really good mate.

Have a look in the for sale section on here and if you can’t find exactly what you are looking for then start a wanted thread with details of your perfect car. Just might save you time, petrol and disappointment.

Lots of good guys on here with some great cars. We care enough to want our cars to go to someone who will love them like we do.

What’s your budget? I’m selling my MK3.5 20th Anniversary car. Advert in the sales section

Derek

 

I have edited that now, there was a belief at one point that the panels were galvanised, unfortunately not true.

You don’t mention where you live tharper97, and it’s not in your profile, but as IanH has correctly pointed out, it is best to try to find one that has come from an area of the country where salt use in the winter is not common - the south basically.  And if you can find a low-mileage one, then it is unlikely to have been used much in the winter anyway.

Unfortunately, MX-5s (and presumably other Mazda models too) are not the best protected against rust, so you have to be vigilant when inspecting a possible purchase.  It is true that cars are built of better materials these days (than when I was a mechanic in the 1970s), and it is quite common to see twenty-year-old vehicles still running around and looking pretty clean (which didn’t happen much back then), but you still have to buy wisely, and not expect every car to be good.

I was probably lulled into a false sense of security when my wife got her first Mazda company car - an 05 reg. Mazda 6.  It was undersealed from new (perhaps a stipulation of the lease-hire company, I don’t know), as was the follow-up 08 reg. 6, and in 2011, our first MX-5.  When we changed the MX-5 for a VW Scirocco in 2015 (because neither of us liked the new model (mk.4 or ND) MX-5, we missed topless motoring so much, that we bought another NC (an 08 reg) to use as a second car.  We were lucky with ours, because it was (is) spotless, and undersealed, but when we joined the Owner’s Club, we discovered that not all MX-5s are undersealed from new, and joining the OC, and forum, certainly opened our eyes to the shortcomings of Mazda’s production.  Our ‘rose-tinted-glasses’ view of MX-5s took a bit of a knock I can tell you ! 

The good news is that there are lots of MX-5s out there for sale - all you have to do is be careful about which one you buy, and don’t expect one to necessarily be on your doorstep.  Buy well, and you won’t be disappointed - they are great fun.

Good luck with your search.

I found a 2006 2.0 sport which is rust free, and off for a full Krown rust treatment tomorrow to keep it that way.

 

As other have said… keep looking you will find one.

1 purchased on 12 months ago I looked at loads and purchased on the body 

I found 2007 prht with 40k on 

I new I would have to replace the sub frames but the rest of the body was ok the boot had a bit off rust its metal so rusts 

the way I looked at it was walk away if

  1. Wet passenger floor 

  2. any sign of rust on arches 

  3. Any sign on rear sill

  4. Slightest question on engine 

Keep looking Tam you will find one in the end. Look for a a car that has been garaged. If what I assume you are in Scotland you may need to look further South for the right car. If you want a galvanised car look at the BMW Z series they are well protected rust wise. Unfortunately as I found out are not reliable or cheap to maintain

Looks to me that Mazdas rust more than most makes off cars,When I was looking for a car for the daughter I looked at two Mazda 2 and they were very rusty underneath.The corsa and fiesta were fine.I think the steel is not well protected.

Hi Tam - If you’re from north of the border and have been looking at NC1s in your local area it’s no surprise that you’ve found plenty of rust showing - these cars don’t tend to like salty roads and generally after 10 years in northern areas the signs will be all too evident. However, there are still plenty of good examples which have been used in summer only as they’re a second or third car - it’s just a question of perserverance - not always easy, but very possible.

Good Luck  

I looked at 8 cars before I bought mine, I had a wide budget, but wanted to pay less if possible.  I also wanted one with an electric roof for security, but after seeing how rough most of the cars were I decided to buy what was best, regardless of whether it was a soft top or not.  The cars I looked at ranged from 6K - 12K.  The newer cars were not rusty but just had rubbish bodywork and one had an iffy gearbox.  One had way more miles on it than the Honda dealer advertised, and I had to wait for it to be washed etc, even though I let them know a few hours prior to viewing it.  The early cars had loads of surface rust underneath, and virtually all the thin/poor quality underseal was hanging off them.  It was just by pure luck that I found my car, I was on my way to see a few year old one, for 14K at a Jaguar dealership with a really low mileage, I thought that a Jaguar dealer might make more of an effort, than I had witnessed so far off Honda, Mazda & independent dealers.  I totally expected the car I decided to look at on the way, a 2006, 2.0 Sport, soft top to be a complete dog.  It was in a Mazda dealership, and at the time priced sensibly at 5.5K with 35K on the clock and a FMSH, considering the so-called MX5 specialists that advertised on ebay, were advertising similar cars for 7K at the time.  This was in January 2016.

I couldn’t believe how clean this car was, I got them to put it up on ramps, and was amazed that it didn’t have a single bit of rust underneath.  The only fault I could see was a worn drivers seat bolster, on the leather seats.  I bought it for 5.2K, it was head and shoulders above the rest.  I don’t think it had ever seen rain, definitely not an British winter.  I repaired the seat bolster with a £20 kit off ebay, watching a youtube video for guidance.  In my haste buying the car I never noticed that one of the window quarter light bars was rusty.  Check these also, they rot too.  However these are a £30 part from Mazda.  I intend replacing mine over the winter.  My car never sees rain, and I have since rust-proofed it.  Its a second car, I use a cheap car to commute, and for poor weather use. 

Good cars exist, and reasonable priced ones too, you’ll have to view numerous dogs, and rough-average cars, but you will find one.  I was fed up of it and nearly bought an 08 car, exactly the same as the one I’ve got, but it was nowhere near as good.  luckily I thought better of it.  I travelled all over Lancashire and the North East.  The cars I viewed in the North East appeared to be better quality, probably coincidence.

Just keep looking.  I could hardly tell any difference between driving the NC1 & MN2 by the way.  NC2 seemed slightly more revvy, it was louder inside too, handling, it was really minimal difference to me, anyway.  

I like Mazda’s, but I’d never buy one other than an MX5.  I keep cars for ages, and I just think a Mazda would be full of holes, compared to others, for regular commuting/all weathers.

Good luck, I’m sure you’ll find a good one, you need one that’s been rust proofed, or one that’s been a second car/good weather car, more so if its an older one, that’s just in my very humble opinion though.

Before ragging on the NC and supposed corrosion woes, 2016 MOT data reveals that the 2006 MX5 to be 60-70% better in areas of corrosion than other 2006 cars. This is a complete reversal from what is seen in NB-FL and older cars.

Focusing on this aspect too much may lead to the known achilles heel of the NC being ignored; the state of the MZR engine and its absolute need to be run with a full quota of oil