ND Brake Fluid Bleeding

My 2017 ND (RF) is due a brake fluid change but I simply do not have an assistant to help me with the work. I have to job the single-handed. This video:

shows how the bleeding can be done using a pump which has an adapter which fits on the fluid reservoir and it looks like exactly what I need. But the video is from the US and the kit recommended doesn’t seem to be available in the UK.

I have seen other similar units available here but before I purchase I wonder if anyone can recommend a suitable one which fits the ND reservoir? Obviously a perfect fit at the reservoir is critical for this method to work so I particularly interested in any reports of success from anyone regarding the connection to the reservoir.

Thanks.

I have this Gunson Eezibleed | Halfords UK but it does not fit the ND as all the adapters are for threaded master cylinders.
There is this Clarke CHT857 Brake and Clutch Bleeding Kit - Machine Mart - Machine Mart that sucks the brake fluid out of the bleed nipples. A quick search will reveal other similar tools.
For the ND I use an assistant. For the Volvo and Mini I use the easy bleed but DO NOT fill it with brake fluid. If there is a poor seal brake fluid is sprayed in a random pattern which is not good. Yes, been there and have the T-shirt.
You can’t be Billy No Mates all the time, beer can be an effective bribe for these occasions. If you are near Filey we can do it together.
:heart:

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Hi, I’ve got a Gunson pressure kit that I’ve used on many cars - but it uses a screw on master cylinder cap to create a pressure seal. The Mazda cap is a “quarter turn” to close version and my Gunson kit didn’t have a cap that would seal onto the Mazda master cylinder.
I’d also got a vacuum kit that sucks the fluid through from the caliper end. Like this one:

In the end I did use that and it did the job, but it was hard work pumping the vacuum pump so many times to pull through the quantity of fluid needed to do a complete change…

A quick search has found this alternative suction device that might be worth a try:

I have the gunson’s eezibleed and bought a mazda cap and fitted the hose connection to it. Mines a mk3 but maybe a mk4 cap could be adapted in the same way

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Be carefull when working on a mk4
If you loose the fluid whilst changing pipes etc you will need to tell the Car you wish to bleed brakes

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when doing brakes on my own, on lots of different cars I have always got a good result with the simple £5 one man bleed hose that has a NRV in the end.

However using a vacuum bleeder is my favorite method, it just seems to make more sense to suck the old fluid out, rather than push new fluid ( and air ? ) in.

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Thanks to all - I’ve gone for the NRV approach and will have a go at the job in a week or two. Warning re ND noted … I will just be bleeding this time round but will bear in mind should I graduate to more serious work on the brakes in future.

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Depite having gone the NRV route, for those wanting to try the ‘pressurise the reservoir’ approach, I have now received a response to my email to Alba Diagnostics asking them to confirm which adapter to use. Their online chart is not reliable … I know this because I have a 2019 Mazda 6 and a 2017 MX-5 ND and both have identical reservoir caps (though not identically-shaped reservoirs) but the Alba chart shows different part numbers. Alba write, in response to a query about this:

The technicians have confirmed that the cap you need is ALB30912.

I have done my best to find photos of the ALB30912 and it does indeed look like the right one. If I were going down the pressure route I’d probably try to get one of these … it looks solid and strong. I did consider buying a spare cap from MX5parts and trying to make my own pressure cap but it may not have been strong enough to hold even the modest pressure required. Posting in case this helps anyone.

So if replacing all lines and fluid (braided lines and Brembo retrofit) what’s the extra thing to ‘tell’ the car? How do you do that? Oh and how much fluid would you need mate?

Well I didn’t replace any hardware … all I tried to do was to completely change the brake fluid. I bought a 1 litre bottle of DOT4 (the original was DOT3 but the book says that 3 or 4 is acceptable) and having gone way over the top in terms of how much I pumped out of each calliper I used only about 60% of the bottle. I’m afraid I don’t know the empty capacity - yours will be more than mine if you’ve fitted better callipers - but if I were in your shoes, and given that DOT4 is not expensive - I’d buy 2 bottles. That way I’d be confident of not having to tear around (when petrol is on short supply!) to get a second bottle. I hope this helps a bit.
I found that the NRV from Halfords (about £5, I think) worked a dream. The only thing I’d do different next time is to make sure I put plenty of rag under each calliper.

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Cheers so a litre will be fine then eh? I use ATE Typ 200 DOT4 stuff, that comes in 1L bottles

Might be. If your system is totally dry I think it would be safer to get 2 bottles. Unopened ones won’t go bad … only opened ones do because brake fluid attracts water,

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Noted Rodder’s warning. I am used to working on older cars. I know most cars now are controlled by the ecu & also certain parts of the car have individual ecu’s . What did Rodders mean about telling the car you want to bleed the brakes!!!