You can get the black glossy piece off reasonably easily. If you look closely it is attached with ‘tabs’. If you gently ease each one open and pull, it will then release from the other part.
This Manual pages - MX5 Manual | Mazda MX5 (Mk4) 2015+ shows how it fits.
You are a true star Sir.
I’ve been searching that manual all morning.
Thank you
Just use bigger screws.
Or buy another plate and drill the holes in a different place
You could use a soldering iron to melt the plastic back into the hole.
I used double sided number plate strips on my new plate on my NC, after the original from the dealer was screwed on offset.
As the front is slightly curved, I used a heat gun on the number plate to bend it to the correct radius.
A lot cleaner fix and if anyone is going out to pinch plates, they will have them even if they are screwed on.
I just cut a few lengths of cable tie to a similar length to the screw and shoved them in the screw holes to pack the holes.
Do you have a hot glue gun? Fill the holes with hot glue after it sets re drill then re screw
I do have a glue gun but I have solved it using bainbridge method above. The cut cable ties worked a treat!
Also used 2 of the sticky pads I had ordered.
This plate is going nowhere now.
Thanks for all your help.
Rummaging around a junk shop in Hastings the other day and found a box full of these things, they are fixings designed for plasterboard that screw into the board and allow screws to be inserted into them.
As soon as I saw them I thought of this post and how they may be useful if the hole has become enlarged to the point where a normal self tapper won’t hold in there.
From the look of things you could just screw them in as far as they would go and then hacksaw the remainder off and use a regular self tapper in the thin end.
I’m going to give it a try on our NB as the holder is flapping about presently.
Just a thought, I’m sure they would be available at B&Q, but I blagged four off of the guy on the stall for nowt.
Probably ok in a 1/2 inch thick plasterboard,but not sure how effective they would be in a thin ,plastic bumper. Hopefully they will work,otherwise you’ll end up with a large hole.
On plasterboard you would drill a hole to the pilot diameter and the large scroll then bites into it when screwed in.
I think these will work loose and rattle about with the vibration from the road.
I agree. In 40 years of partitioning and installing suspended ceilings I have never seen those plastic fixings. I often use a similar metal type which has a central point,which doesnt need pre-drilling into boards.
I too have never seen this type and only use the metal ones where necessary.
I’ve used numberplate tape on my cars for a number of years. If you use the proper numberplate tape which is designed for the job, the plate will be secure.
Using 7 strips I’ve found that when it comes to removing the plates it is extremely difficult to do so without cracking the plate.
I expect a thief would much prefer the 10 seconds or less to remove a couple of screws
The plastic plasterboard fixings work fine in plasterboard for something light like a picture frame, and will neatly cut their own hole with the stresses spread gently all along the very thin spiral-wing-thread.
BUT forget about them in a thin plastic sheet (tiny bit of thin wing gripping), or even in 1/2" plasterboard if there is any vibration or movement (board crumbles).
Been there with the plasterboard…
fixed it again…
and again…
did it differently.
I have an ancient fragile early version of these and their little thin screws going free for anyone who wants them, anyone? anyone?
And zinc ones simply love the salt (a friend’s caravan saga).
