Hi can anyone help as I have got code p0012 on my code reader. Does anyone know what camshaft position timing over retarded mean and what is the solution
It’s not uncommon. If you clear the code or continue to use the car it’ll probably clear. It’s when the actual position of the camshaft is different to the desired position by the engine ECU. The position is controlled by oil pressure, in my experience, low engine oil level or deteriorated oil can cause a P0012 code. If the level is OK, it maybe time for an oil change.
What viscosity Oil are you using? I had a couple of Management light occurences that were P0012. After serious hunting across the internet including this site I carried out the following:
1. Remove the VVT OCV valve (nneds a bit of a pull to get out after bolts removed. Ensure it is clean and check it operates electrically. With 12v applied it should move to the fully advanced position. When 12v removed it should move to the fully retarded position.
2. Clean or replace the tiny gauze filter in the top of the oil feed on the VVT valve.
3. I was running 10w/40 oil. I can’t prove it but I believe these VVT valves don’t like the cold thicker 10w viscosity. I therefore changed to 0w/40 and have since used 5w/40.
You may wish to try 3 before 1 and 2.
I have not had the management light (P0012) on since for 4 years
Having had a bit of a break from MX5 ownership I seem to have fallen foul of the dreaded P0012 - or at least my daughter has. There were no problems for over a year with the car but just before Christmas her fiance drove it and didn’t see the warning signs when the heater didn’t warm up. The car had taken a stone or something through the radiator and although the temp gauge was (apparently) normal it boiled dry, cooked the head gasket and warped the head. Anyway all back together but it is throwing up the P0012 code consistently after about 12 miles driving and it’s not clearing itself. I have checked the VVT Oil valve and it is ok, tried a second hand one I tested before fitting, drained the fresh oil from the engine rebuild and put in 5/30 synthetic and it is still doing it, even after following the advice to stay below 3000 rpm until the engine is up to temperature. It seems odd that it always occurs after the same distance. Is there any way of checking that the valve timing is actually advancing, say by applying 12v to the valve solenoid? Also, is there anything that might have been disturbed (or omitted) during the top end re-assembly that might cause the problem or could it be the PCM - again any way of checking that it’s sending the signal to the solenoid?
The garage don’t know what’s causing it and I (dad’s garage!) am a bit stumped and cheesed off.
Bump! Any ideas anyone?
Did the cam partly seize due to the head warping issue, causing the belt to jump a notch?
I’d want to at least the cam cover and take a look at the top end.
The head was stripped and rebuilt. I wondered if the cam timing might be out but d have thought it would run roughly
ok I know this is an old thread but im getting this issue, has anyone go a photo of theVVT OCV valve?
Thanks
VVT solenoid is at the back of the intake cam shaft. on a Mk2.5. (back - close to the firewall bulkhead.) No idea where the OCV valve is, presumably near by?
Or… the VVT actuator is on the front of the intake camshaft under the cam cover and the OCV is sticking out of the tower on the cam cover over the intake camshaft. It’s got a 2 wire connector and a 10mm headed bolt holding it.