You have given me an idea though, I wonder if I can get the standard battery tray to fit in that new location!
I will look at the weekend as won’t be around in daylight until then.
I was able to trim the standard battery tray and refit it along the chassis leg
A great read - well done on what you have achieved so far, on the back of Covid, in the open, on your driveway, in winter ! You deserve a medal.
Thank you - it’s a tad cold and I am using rubber mats designed for tents to lay on. Tools are mainly from Halfords so this doesn’t need a full workshop.
I need to reverse bleed the clutch master and hopefully the car will be down on 4 wheels again just leaving some electrics to do (map sensor and IAT wiring) and it will be ready for some mapping.
Reverse bleeding the clutch master did not work. Ended up buying a new one.
Going to try and find the engine number today.
Whilst working on the car I have found the whole wiring loom has been marked with tipex with the name of the connector it goes to. Seems a sign that 1 of 2 things has happened:
Maybe if I check the engine number against the v5 I will see as people often don’t bother with that paperwork.
Put the new battery on her, plugged in the old MAF temporarily - she started first time…
Ticks over fine and so far no oil drops or water drops. Going to let her get warm.
Still to do:
Bleed the clutch (hoping reverse bleed tool arrives today)
Make a pipe for the air filter.
Wire in the map sensor
Wire in the IAT sensor.
State of play:
Car is down off axle stands as we needed the driveway back (to charge our EV)
There is an oil leak from where the oil feed ‘cross’ adapter is screwed into the main oil pressure switch adapter.
The clutch master does not want to bleed in either direction - just slams to the floor no matter what is done. New one ordered.
Proper Work still to do: > which will be in a few weeks when I can be bothered……
Make air filter pipe
Wire in MAP sensor to standard loom
Wire in IAT sensor to standard loom
Fit the 450cc Injectors
I raised the front suspension a touch while it was up in the air. So it’s more level now.
This is quite inspirational. Great stuff, keep it up 
Thank you.
I have ordered a new oil feed hose that is 4AN at each end and 100cm instead of the 90. I have also ordered a 4AN to 1/8 NPT 90degree adapter.
This combination is because the AN ends swivel on the hose line, whereas on both the oil Feed lines I have now the 1/8NPT threaded end doesn’t. That makes it a real pain to fit as to install the long hose you need to twizel it as you tighten it. So as I have to get under the car to fix the leak I might as well make this change at the same time.
So the replacement clutch master cylinder arrived along with the 1/8 NPT to 4AN adapter.
New oil line is due 31st Jan.
This morning I cracked on with changing the Clutch Master cylinder.
2 x 12mm nuts access from the drivers footwell.
1 x Hose clamp released with pliers
1 x Clutch hardline - used a 10mm brake spanner.
I went to fit the new one and came across a problem… the cylinder vertical section where the hard pipe connects is a fatter diameter than the one that came off. This meant it wasn’t able to clear the turbo downpipe and so it wouldn’t fit.
However, the new cylinder did come with studs so I simply removed the studs - gaffer taped the master cylinder in place and then threaded the studs back into place from inside the car. Then did up the 2 12mm nuts and hey presto.
I used the gravity bleed method to let the brake master fill the clutch master and just as fluid reached the top of the clutch master’s threads, I fitted the 10mm hard pipe back on.
Also fitted the turbo blanket in place. Tomorrow I will sort the air intake pipe into its final location.
This afternoon I plan to do some reading of wiring diagrams to identify each of these from the MAF, so I can repurpose 2 of them to the IAT for the ME442 to monitor.
Mazda MX5 NC MAF to IAT Conversion - following on from my post above I have been looking at what i need to do to, to enable me to use the stock wiring harness with the ME442 NC ecu via the ME supplied harness adapter.
I took a better picture of the wires/MAF from the standard setup:
I then cross referenced those wires with the positions of the wires mentioned in these pages:
MAF (flex-innovations.com)
2008 MX-5 - 0140-c Control System (ncmiata-servicemanual.com)
Wire Colours
The online guide for the ME442 NC states that its the 2 IAT wires on the right of the plug connector above that I need to remove from the MAF plug above and instead connect those to the new IAT sensor. Then rescale the IAT inside the ME442 using the MEITE software to match the scale of the new sensor.
As they supplied the sensor, they also provide the new scale settings as below.
And I bought a plug kit from them as well - and it comes with 4 pins in case you mess up whilst doing it. Looking forward to having a go!
I trimmed some of the end of the insulation off and slid the wire into the Pin. Then for good measure I soldered the wire to the PIN connector.
So now onto figuring the wiring for the new 3 bar MAP sensor I have bolted in the engine bay. My plan is to re-purpose the standard MAP wiring again - just like I am doing for the IAT, then adjust the sensor scaling in the ME442 to match.
It should have a 5V, a signal and a sensor ground wire that I need to connect to the new sensor.
Later in this thread you will see how I mapped on paper the standard cars wires, to the pins on the MAP plug and onward to the pins of the new 3 Bar MAP sensor. This kind of thing is not hard with a cup of tea.
Figured if I am going to be doing some wiring I might as well add some boost control into the mix and ordered the kit for the ME442 from their site:
So now the wiring list is:
2 x Wires to the IAT
3 x Wires to the new 3 Bar Map
2 x Wires to the Boost Solenoid
2 x Wires to extend the washer pump feed from behind the drivers headlight to back by the bulkhead on the passenger side.
I hate wiring…. Ordered some new black hoses as I don’t like blue….
Are you on MeisterR coilovers? I can see the red suspension.
Any plans for brakes? I don’t know how well the standard brakes would do with a new power but it’s looking good. I’d love to have a turbo MX5 but will go the easy route and buy a newer hatch that comes with turbo like fiesta and just map it £1200 on mods and it will be 230-250hp with 300+nm 
Any gearing plans? Different final drive maybe?
I am running MeisterR Clubrace, with braided hoses, track spec fluid and dba track pads on new stock discs.
No planned changes to gearing at the moment.
I spent another hour on it today……
So this adapter was no longer needed, which was the source of oil leaks.
This is the new setup:
Had the car idling for 10mins to get everything up to temp and no leaks now 
Also started the wiring for the IAT, MAP & Boost Controller:
overall, at this point how much harder/easier has this experience/project been compared to what you originally expected? I would ask do you still think its worth it compared to just getting it done by a pro but you probably cant answer that until the jobs complete.
Good question…… 100% something I am glad I have done myself. It’s largely bolt stuff off, then bolt new stuff on.
When completed it will stand me at £2500 approx in parts. So much value and the only ‘unknown’ quality part I have used is the turbo itself as it’s not a Garret, but I think it will do fine…. I will see….
I am 46 not 25 - something I didn’t think about when deciding to do this outside in the winter.
In terms of time - I think I was about spot on, if it had been summer and I was doing it with some mates then it’s easily ‘weekendable’ if you use the parts I have listed.
Half this battle was working out the sequence to do things in - and by writing a guide I think this will help anyone that follows me.
Halford socket set and screwdrivers are pretty much all you need except a £25 Amazon grinder.
I was surprised by how awkward getting the turbo oil feed setup in place was. Hardest part of the job - so maybe if I do one again I will actually do that job first, so the rest of if flows faster.
Simple consumables I overlooked in my original planning were fresh oil, coolant, brake/clutch fluid
The car is now up and running on my drive, back on 4 wheels and I will finish it today. I only have MAP sensor wiring to do and then work on the sorting the tuning.
Understatement of the year, methinks. 
As someone without the in-depth technical knowledge you have I’ve found it fascinating watching this project develop.
