Hi mate, i have been following this thread but your dyno curves have really got my interest.
Do you still use the stock cams? I suppose you also got an intercooler fitted as well? Stock clutch, flywheel and gearbox?
Hi - those are only VirtualDyno so until I get it on a real world dyno I won’t know for sure, but I have had good experience of VD in the past for the ball park figures/shapes.
Car is on 129k miles - but I have found many tipex marks on the wiring loom that makes me wonder if it’s had a replacement engine at some point in its life. I don’t know where the engine numbers are on these.
Stock 6spd Manual transmission
Clutch (as far as I can tell it’s stock - I am sure I will find out soon 
Diff - mine is a 2.0 sport so has an lsd as standard I believe.
Cams - stock as far as I know.
Those numbers seem to match those seen by others running similar boost, roughly.
On the bbr curves i have seen the NA seem to have a steep and linear power curve all the way to around 7000 rpm. The boosted ones have a bit of a bump but they are a lot more linear compared to yours.
Similarly yous and the bbr torque curves seem quite a bit different
It’s amazing what you can do with a dyno and steady state tuning - along with years of experience and dedicated R&D……… as opposed to a bloke on his drive , with tuning from datalogs.
Also that chart seems to reference superchargers rather than turbo’s. Superchargers are Linear pretty much.
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Nah most are NA maps BBR published on the internet (and placed all together along with mine and two other mates maps for comparison)
BBR call their tunes super this super that indicating the min power that can be achieved but there’s two turbocharged maps and a few 2.5L engines with various mods from cams and ITB. From what i have seen the turbo route has good potential mate.
I’m really impressed with what you have achieved in your built.
With hindsight I would have bought a smaller turbo so I could have it spool 500-1000rpm earlier but I cannot find one smaller that is as cost effective - £109…….
At some point I will put it on a dyno and maybe then the ignition can be optimised. The car feels very strong as it is so I am in no rush.
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Still driving it…………… it’s fun.
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Top work! I’m spewing with jealousy that yours is on the road and working tremendously
I’m so ballhairily close 
and we keep having freezing nights so the gritters are out every other day at the moment 
Looks amazing man, can’t wait to see what it’s making as is and what you get from a good mapping session
This is how she sits now with the air filter correctly fitted. I had it resting in situ whilst waiting for a 73mm silicon hose that never arrived. So cut up the old throttle 90degree that I just replaced.
It’s worth the effort to do this yourself……keep going.
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From what I can see of the (fairly full) engine bay, there’s little scope for a cold-air intake, or shrouding to prevent the car having to huff the warm air from the middle of the engine bay, is that right? I can see piping which suggests that you have a FMIC fitted, which is always nice, but it seems that starting with cool air and then cooling it further would be a win over cooling air which starts much higher than ambient.
On the other hand, do you know if it makes much difference where that intake sits in the first place?
Your right it’s not ideal which is probably why BBR fabricated a new rear section to the standard air intake box.
In my case I can monitor intake air temps after the intercooler and if I notice them getting a little toasty I think I could find room to route a cold pipe in from the front somewhere
Over 300 smiles on the conversion now……
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Monitored IAT’s on Tuesday. Steady at 7/8 devs when moving. I did get stuck in a traffic jam on a hill and watched them climb slowly to 32degs after about 10mins of crawling. Once we got moving they came down slowly eventually returning to 8-10degs.
I logged the coolant temp as well and that was switching between 89-95/97 when the fans kick in and bring it down.
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Hi David, just resuming our email conversation on here as its better to follow. I think I understand the need for individual sensors now for your me442. Just from looking at pictures I cant tell if your still using the stock MAF( without the iat wires as you described) Is it mounted on a tube post intercooler before the throttle body? I was reading about turbo setups using maf and some say to mount it pre turbo vs post but it would make sense in my mind to mount it before the throttle body.
I do not use a MAF in my setup. Because I use the ME442 with an adapter to the stock MX5 wiring loom I was able to simply disconnect the 2 wires that the standard MAF used for its IAT and reconnect those 2 wires to the IAT sensor I have installed in the pipework just before the throttle body.
To measure engine load I use a cosworth style 3 bar map sensor that I mounted on the bulkhead. Again I was able to disconnect the wiring from the standard MAP sensor and reconnect it to the new larger capacity one.
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Took a while sorting out the mounting of the Powertune Digitaldash as the face of the screen cannot be further forward than the leading edge of the top steering column cover or it fowls when you turn the wheel, so I moved it back, then back again.
On a semi positive side it seems the MX5 has already had a replacement engine - for sure the engine number in the car doesn’t match the one on the V5 …….
I suspected as much but now wonder when it was done and how many miles are actually on it. I think it’s just another NC1 engine as the engine number in the car is ‘lower’ than the one on the V5.
Where is this number located? Discovered mine had a front end collision with new bonnet & bumper, curious if mine was swapped too.
The screen is bigger then I expected seen some expensive ones that are quite small.
To find the engine number on a Mazda MX5 NC as you are looking towards the car from the front, it’s on the back left hand side.
If you get a torch and lean over you can point it down toward the back of the engine/gearbox. You will see quite a long sloping flat surface and the engine number is stamped on that.
It should be LF then 6 numbers I believe.
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