Please Help! 2005 Arctic advice needed

I want to buy an MX-5, I dont know what an NC, BC or any other C is? I have rather fallen for a 2005 Arctic edition Euphonic (140K miles), Experian report and DVLA check is ok but one rear wheel arch is very bubbled.
Price is < £1000 I would like to get it checked by someone who knows these cars as I’m not able to go and look at it (no car) and wouldnt know what to look for even if I did :-/ Is in Birmingham (?*&), are you, or do you any MX5 experts in that Area ?
Im guessing the price means a lot of work but I need a rough guide to the cost of work before I buy it.
Any advice gratefully received

Do you know the reg number, you can check out any nasties on previous MOT tests online. Doesn’t give the whole story of course but it does give an history of it needing attention in the past. Rust is the big enemy of the Mk2 (NB) you will be looking at the NB facelift at 2005 plate. If you’ve never looked at one then you need another set of experienced eyes, out of my area I’m afraid otherwise glad to offer help.

Thank you so much for telling me the model number, I didnt know. I have checked all MOTs, and the the experian check and this one seems a good’un. Will probably have to visit with mat, torch, magnet and a list of checkpoints which I am sure I will find on here. Just hope the cheap price is down to the 140k miles. :wink:

Is it an “Arctic” or a “Euphonic” ? They are the same basic car but are two different limited editions which were available in 2004/5 but with different colours, wheels, audio and seats. They are both likely to have similar unseen rust problems and could be expensive to fix.

Ahh, thats confusing as the advert quotes both names. Its a beautiful metallic sea blue colour with blue leather seats so probably the Arctic.
I’m told it was waxoyled last year but I know that price is for a reason… but do I keep 2k, 3k or 4k for the refurbishment and will it still be around when I could replace engine with electric system??

Is it this one?

If so usual sort of MOT history, nothing too alarming if the points raised at each one have been addressed properly. Definitely worth an inspection by someone who knows the NB well if possible.

Assume this is the very bubbled arch.

If the front legs have rusted (probably); £500-1000 in repairs. If the sills/rear arches have gone; £600-700 per side. One is already rotted, the other one will be as well, or not far behind. I would make the assumption these will need doing now or very soon, so you can focus on things that get often overlooked; is there crash damage (these are sports cars, and sports cars do get crashed), roof condition (£500-600 to replace), engine mechanicals (140k; the engine should be ok, but the rings can stick on the 1.8), clutch (£250-300 to replace; if its not been replaced, 140k miles is getting to the end, suspension (springs often crack; does the MOT history have a history of spring replacements, which might indicate that in general, the suspension is getting tired (£500+ to replace), handbrake efficiency (an issue on all NA/NBs, due to the Lockheed Girling caliper design, caliper is ~£200 fitted a side with all hardware);, trim; is it all good (torn leather seats can get pricey to fix).

When it comes to rust; chassis rails and sills are a known thing, but rotted wings, while easy to replace, can be quite expensive to replace.

Is it RK 05 Y**?

Drivers side arch, sill completely gone, £600+ to repair. Had a scrape at the front, so another £200 to repaint the front bumper. Interior in good order, minor wear to drivers seat. MOT history indicates “surface corrosion” on both rear sills; its never surface corrosion, so both sills have rotted, but one might be put off for a while. Also underside is generally rusty; I can imagine what this will be like; one older MOT indicates “heavy corrosion” (underseal has been slapped over it; ask who did this). Strong likelyhood that the front chassis legs are starting to bloom.

Its got a fresh MOT on it, and unless the MOT missed something horrendous going on up front, you’ll be able to enjoy the summer in it, giving you time to decide what needs doing and when. The drivers sill/arch certainly before the next MOT. Evidence that some suspension parts might need attending to soon (advisories over last few MOTs to fix various boots, were these done. If not, you might be looking at some mechanical repairs, and these might be more of an immediate nature. Some history of the front brakes sticking recently; were the calipers replaced, or have they been stripped, and regreased/assembled (which might mean the problem will come back again)… The oil leak is probably from the top of the engine (camcover gasket, o-ring).

My tuppence worth, it’s had recent undersealing applied, mentioned in the MOT advisories. So I suspect heavily corroded and it’s been applied as a cover job or a proper done job??
Expect corrosion under the car as well as what you can see. As I see it run it with the MOT for a year and expect to spend twice as much as you paid bringing it back to a decent car, rotten parts dealt with. It’s certainly only had the money spent on it to gain an MOT each year, mechanicals maybe looked after better than the rest.

Haha, I had been trying to keep it a secret!

Yes, this is the one and I am very glad I asked the question, there’s so much knowledge here… your amazing!
Thank you all for the wisdom and especially for going through probable issues and pitfalls and putting a price to them, looks like I have some thinking and maths to do. Such a pity, to me, it looks beautiful but hopefully, there are others.

Well, there could be easily £2-2500 to sink into that car , probably over the next couple of years. The question though is can you up your budget from £1000 to £3500 to avoid having to do that work (and no guarantee that you won’t have to).

Such as this ultra-low miles example

But even that has a rusty sill in its history.

Bargain for someone (but even with 16k miles, its been welded)