polish

I should have used a leather to dry off the car after washing - I know.

However, I now have water marks that refuse to budge with the polish I normally use.

 

Recommendations gratefully received.

You need to move into this century my friend. The use of a leather to dry off paintwork would cause most petrol heads to scream nooooooooo!

Drying towels used with some quick detailer are de rigueur, but a blower/dryer is even better.

Get yourself onto YouTube and watch some detailing videos. If your paintwork is badly marked, you will probably need to get it machine polished by someone who knows what they are doing.

As a starter kit you need:

2 X buckets

1 X wool wash mitt

Some Ph neutral shampoo

some quick detailer containing cornauba wax

2 X good quality drying towels

Then if you are going to do a full detail on you car yourself, you will need to buy polish, clay, sealant, wax, etc. etc.

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Just bought wash mitts, drying towels and microfibre cloths for applying and removing polish from these people -

https://paragonmicrofibre.com/

Bloody amazing products. Washed and polished both my MX-5 and Nissan Juke in half the time, half the effort, best result ever.

You may well find exactly the same products elsewhere much dearer. This company makes the products and supplies many of the detailing suppliers who rebrand them.

I’m not your friend and I don’t appreciate being talked down to.

All I need is some suggestions for brands of polish.

 

 

I use Autoglym super resin polish, it usually shifts any marks that basic washing/cleaning doesn’t. Water marks can be difficult to shift, easier if you have a wax or sealant on the paint work.

Sounds like good friendly advice to me. If I’d asked the same question and received this advice I’d press the thank button. In fact I will.

2 Likes

I’ve settled on Meguiars ultimate range.

If your paint work is pretty good then a polish followed a wax should suffice.

If the marks are still there then a clay & then/or a compound may be necessary followed by the polish & wax.

This polish & wax has the added benefit of no white residue which helps disguise any chips or scratches rather than high lighting them.

For best results use the correct applicator pads & microfibre towels.

Happy detailing 

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I’m surprised you’ve got any friends with that attitude. By all means keep using your leather, and don’t ask for advice if you don’t want answers.  

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I really like R222 Paintwork cleaner. I guess its a polish at heart, so I only use maybe once a year in preparation on the 5 before a wax and after claybar but its good at getting stuff off.

I had your exact problem on my brand new cough Audi last year, I washed it for first time then millions of bugs descended on it and no way could I dry it with any thing. It ended up covered in horrible water marks that would not shift with detailer (and was new so no way was going to put polish on it), but by the next time I got around to a clean, having been rained on with nice soft water for a few weeks, the marks went of their own accord pretty much.

 

 

 

Strewth. Lets be friendly can we?

Helpfullness in this section of the Forum is something that I take pride in with any questions I try to answer

As a Car Detailer, the advice given thus far is spot on, which is very much the norm here

 

However. To answer your question I need to ask you one:

Polish? By hand or machine Polisher? There are many that I could recommend to prepare the paintwork for Wax or Sealant

So…In short, do you really mean polish or do you mean Wax? What product were you using?

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[quote=march]

I’m not your friend and I don’t appreciate being talked down to.

All I need is some suggestions for brands of polish.

 

 

[quote=Quinvy]

You need to move into this century my friend. The use of a leather to dry off paintwork would cause most petrol heads to scream nooooooooo!

Drying towels used with some quick detailer are de rigueur, but a blower/dryer is even better.

quote …

I’m not sure why you took offence by the advice provided by ‘Quinvy’ part of which is above. I found the cleaning tips really helpful - a strange stance to take. 

 

I came across this video recently, it shows a product to use to get rid of water spots.  Might be worth a go.  I‘m going to get some myself to try.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sjtN9AzvuJM&feature=youtu.be

Here is a link to the product itself:

https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/koch-chemie-fse-finish-spray-exterior.html?acc-xfx=85fc37b18c57097425b52fc7afbb6969

ChrisRs and the other pro detainers on here may be able to add some more info about it 

 

 

Water spotting can be very annoying, particularly if you dont dry it properly

Leathers are now recognised as being the wrong thing to use on modern soft Mazda Paint. Use Microfibre drying towels instead

However, since it has occured…There is no reason to to worry.

Make yourself a mixture of vinegar and lemon juice with 60% ish of water.

Apply with a MF Pad and rinse off straight away.

Wash the car again with your usual wash shampoo and dry thoroughly. I use an air blaster to help that

Reapply your wax or whatever LSP you use

Give a light spray and wipe of the car with a Quick detailer

There are other products that you can apply to a wet car before drying… AutoGlym Aqua is one… I use Gyeon Wet Coat…This will practically eliminate the chance of water spotting

On the extreme end of the scale…Use a Hose and deioniser to cover the washed car with distilled water (Aqua Gleem)

Your best starting point is ditching the Chammy and make sure you dry the car really well. Then there will be no problem at all

I’m not an avid detailer, or any sort of detailer, but a few things that have worked for me are - 

 - I discovered clay.  Very easy to use, wonderfully effective. I can do the whole car in about an hour. I could easily feel the difference on a 6 month old car when I did it in Sept 2017.  The car doesn’t go out in bad weather (at least not on purpose) and is not really used in the winter.  Earlier this month and 12,000 miles later I clayed it again - far less muck than the first time I did it but lots of tar specks from the lower bodywork (not easily visible beforehand).

 - Noodle mitts.  One for the top, a separate one for the sills, valances etc.

 - Rainwater.  We have really hard water and unless it a really cool, damp day drying marks will appear before I can even dry it. So after I use the hose, I immediately rinse with a watering can filled from a butt before towel drying.  even if an area does dry off before I get to it, there are never any drying marks.

I also use a rinse bucket for the mitts.  I don’t bother with bucket guards, the muck sinks and the mitts float.  Ordinary Autoglym shampoo.

My go-to wax is Naviwax. It does a reasonable job of making swirl marks hard to see and it lasts.  I have never polished it.

I don’t mean to hijack this thread, but, having a red NB ,after polishing (machine polisher) using auto Glyn I’m left with white residue pit mark’s, so I don’t use a dealer.Is there a way of avoiding this or do I just live with it…

Advice appreciated… Thanks

Oops, spelling error Sealer not Dealer

Youre using Super Resin Polish I assume and probably used far too much, hence the dust and residue

You only need 4 pea sized blobs on a Polishing Pad and work it until its gone.

Personally, I never use it as its just a all in one product that doensnt have much durabilty and hides scratches and imperfections

Change to a pure polish applied with a Finishing Pad…GTechniq P1 is perfect for your needs

https://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/gtechniq/p1-nanocomposite-polish.aspx

Wipe down with Alcohol or Paint Prep to remove polishing oils

Then apply wax or sealant

Hope this helps

Thanks Chris…will certainly give this a try

Always be aware that a ‘polish’ is abrasive. Depending on the make and type the level of abrasiveness can vary greatly.
But ideally a polish is used to correct paint surface problems, like removing swirls, scratches etc.
If your paint work is pristine then there is no need to use a polish. Use a wax, some like Zymol may call it a glaze, or a ceramic coating.