I’ve seen a few really positive reviews on this stuff and was wondering if anyone on here had used it?
Our daily cars have usually been treated to a bucket of water with Turtle Wax “Wash n Wax” once a month whether they’ve needed it or not (
) and have never been into anything greater, but I’d like to keep our weekender a little more shipshape! Would this be a good place to start (after the wash n wax 
)?
What’s the difference between wax and glaze?
TVM 
I’ve always used Autoglym products but have some Turtle wax to use too, seems good stuff
I don’t go in for all this specially named stuff, pink this blue that rinse with this use separate buckets for this, snow foam the hell out of it method😁
Those that have seen my car(s) will testify, they are clean and sparkling.
Can recommend getting the car machine polished, once done and the paintwork is pretty smooth it’s easier to keep it that way.
Sorry this the only stuff l use after washing or when she gets a snow foam treatment…… 
.
The only pain using this stuff is you can only do one panel at a time ……
Never used Poorboys and don’t know what glaze is. If you want expert advice, stop reading now.
After 4 years and about 19,000 miles our car has its share of small chips, and also has some swirl marks that were mostly present when I acquired it 6 months after it was first registered.
I think it looks pretty good when it’s clean and waxed. I never use polish (or anything that removes paint or lacquer). I wouldn’t touch it with a machine polisher myself, nor have I yet seen the need to let anybody else have a go. Removing some material is really the only way to actually get rid of the swirl marks, so they can stay.
The wax fills and disguises the swirls (which are at least fairly light) very well. The chips are very small and IMO less noticeable than they would be if touched in, at least by me. I don’t actually see them at all unless I look for them. The colour is Blue Reflex.
Every year or so I use a clay bar to remove stuck-on surface contamination, although since the first go there isn’t much to remove. I use Snap Seal as a cleaning wax, followed by NaviWax, both from Nubawax,
The car isn’t used daily and usually gets a wash when it comes out. For that I use Autoglym shampoo at the normal concentration, a couple of caps full in a bucket. I use mitts and the 2 bucket method, rinse with rainwater from a ■■■■ (mains water is hard here), and dry off with microfibre cloths.
I’m certainly not an obsessive detailer and the above is probably all sacrilege, but this regime does it for me and I know I’m not likely to do any damage. The paint and lacquer are pretty thin on the ND.
EDIT the censored word was b-u-t-t, as in water b***.
In answer to your question Yes.
I used it on my black Honda CRV when I had it.
Typically, with a black car it showed all the swirl marks etc etc.(Hence why I wouldn’t buy another black car).
For me it worked and restored it back to a really good finish.
Needs some time spent doing it though, but I thought it was worth it.
Then put a a good wax on top .
(I did send what I had left to someone on here a while back, but can’t remember who now).
I also use the Poorboys White Diamond Show Glaze on my Volvo.
The only issue with a wax or glaze is they are only temporary and will wash off depending how the car is used and you’re back to square one.
What they basically do is fill the swirl marks with a top layer so the light reflects off that and makes it look great, until it wears off
If you want a used black car to look great, you really need to get it machine polished to remove the old swirl marks, then a ceramic coating applied to give some protection against new swirls.
To get a pro detailer to do it, you probably looking around £500.
Or maybe get them to do the hard bit, machine polishing for £250, then apply a consumer grade ceramic coating yourself, for £40, and some clean microfibre clothes and some Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the surface first.
Something like carpro cquartz uk 3.0 which lasts for 2 years easily with careful washing.
It’s easy to apply, best in a garage of you can, so it can have 24hrs to fully cure.
Then you use Carpro shampoo to wash it and a quick spray over with their Reload spray to maintain the coating and gloss.
Did my cars 2 years ago and it’s still there giving a lovely gloss.
Not if it’s a clear coated Black paint. 
Pretty much all finishes have a clear coat now, don’t they? That and the fact that I don’t know what I’m doing have kept me well away from machine polishing, in fact polishing in general. I’m quite happy to cover up the swirls with wax.
Polish: Corrects paint scratches and other defects by fine abrasive action, removing a very fine topmost layer of paint to flatten out imperfections and soften edges of deeper scratches. Needs to be worked hard to achieve good results, often machine application is necessary. A hand useable example is Gtechniq P1 Nano
Glaze: Achieves temporary correction of minor paint defects using polymer “fillers” that go into scratches, good results achievable by hand, and often leaves a desirable wet look. However, the fillers wash out within a few months and you’re back to square one. Poorboys Blackhole and Autobrite Cherry Glaze are examples, the latter is excellent but won’t last two months outside without a protection layer on top!
Wax: Doesn’t correct anything, just protects/seals what’s there, so you do this after polishing or glaze to maintain the finish you’ve achieved. Most waxes do some shine enhancement though.
Collinite 845 is what I use, it leaves a nice waxy glow and isn’t agony to remove unlike pastes! Sealants do the same protective job as wax but with different chemistry, a classic being FinishKare FK452 which was favoured on wheels because it’s more temperature resistant. Both those are a bit old hat now, spray ceramic seem to be the way forward such as TAC Moonlight, Gtechniq C2v3, Gyeon Wet Coat or Kamikaze Overcoat which are all applied with a simple spray and wipe, then last half a year.
NB: No harm in using a wash and wax shampoo, but polishing or glazing over the top of it will strip that wax off.
AIO All-in-one as the name implies tries to do polish and wax at the same time, these are effectively longer life glazes and well suited to hand application at home by beginners. Dood examples of the breed are the evergreen Autoglym Super Resin Polish and Autofinesse Tripple. Like any 2-in-1 product you compromise the performance a bit for convenience.
I went into a bit more detail at Cleaning & Detailing: what did you do to your motor today? - Page 3 - Styling and Car Care - BRISKODA
Very wise comment, John_M. My other hobby is sailing and it is not uncommon for amateurs without the right kit to inflict very serious damage on their GRP hulls by attempting to machine-polish themselves. I would not want to try machine-polishing a car myself … I just hand-polish my RF and enjoy driving it more than polishing it. Just been for a spin this morning and it was wonderful to be out on the road in the winter sunshine. (Actually it was a test-spin after some work on the brakes).
The finish will benefit from a polish after claying, despite what the marketing says claying is an abrasive process that imparts many fine scratches, the worst of which are dubbed “marring”. Having said that, if you are happy with the results after you’ve waxed (I suspect you may be using an AIO so it is effectively being glazed anyway), then don’t let some swirl obsessed muppet on an internet forum tell you otherwise!
If you do decide to polish it a bit don’t worry about the paint thickness, it is not a consideration for normal hand polishing (excluding mega abrasive stuff like T Cut). I’ve machine polished mine twice with a DA (fairly aggressively on the second go) and the paint isn’t thin, it’s just stupidly soft (hence scratching when you so much as breath on it)
Think I’am with you and leave anything technical to an expert!
Interesting article from the web.
I hadn’t heard that but agree it stands to reason that the paint could be marked by claying, if only by the stuff being removed. It does work almost miraculously well though and instantly feels much smoother. Perhaps I’ve been lucky, but I do use plenty of slightly soapy water which probably helps. I also remove tar, which strikes me as a substance that could contain grit, separately with white spirit.
It’s NaviWax, which I think is just waxes. Looks like it. I’ve never had much joy with polishes, including Meguiars and Autoglym Super Resin. I’m obviously not doing it right because I tend to end up with a patchy finish. I’ve also tried Collinite Insulator Wax but found that hard work too. I probably over work it.
This regime is just for the MX-5 of course. Our ‘other’ cars are comparatively neglected, and lucky if they get a dose of Express Wax, the liquid stuff the dealers use that you can put on without drying the car first. Obviously it only lasts about a fortnight!
I hear what you say re ‘paint’ thickness - I guess the bit that matters is the clear coat. I imagine it’s fairly disastrous to go through that, hence my caution.
As a little kid, I used to ‘help’ my grandma’s neighbour, Mr Wood, polish his black Rover 90. He polished right through the paint eventually.
I had a quick look at NaviWax out of curiosity and it’s a well-regarded carnuba heavy paste wax, I guess that provides some filling effect as it’s definitely not an AIO; if you like the results, application method and longevity, stick with it.
If you did fancy trying either SRP or 845 again (providing you’ve not binned or given them away in frustration!) I suspect too much product used, they go on very thin and excess is a pig to remove (and wasteful)! If you’re having difficulty removing most products, a quick mist of dilute car shampoo (or quick detailer if you’re posh) normally helps. Suggested dosage on a foam pad:
For both products wait about 15 mins until hazed (you can swipe your finger across to see if it smears or wipes away cleanly), once it has, just microfibre the lot off. Both are an ■■■■ on plastic and rubber, keep them well away, if you do “overspray” pencil eraser and glass cleaner or WD40 usually shift the residue.
You’re absolutely right about the paint thickness, clearcoat is what matters because once you go through it that’s game over and respray time 
but the lacquer is thankfully a lot tougher than the old single stage paint of a Rover 90, I rekon with a dual-action (DA) polisher, medium pads and a one-step diminishing polish I could do it every year for a decade and still have paint left, DA machines are really very gentle unless you go bananas with them. I don’t recommend taking up machine polishing though, it’s resulted in a never-ending pursuit of perfection that isn’t maintainable on a daily driver!
I’ve used it on a black Honda jazz, it’s brilliant stuff. Yes there are loads of expert methods outlined above but I found the poor boy stuff to be worth the money.