Hi all,
Looking to buy a power bleeder for the brakes. Was wondering if anyone here has one they would recommend as there are so many on the market and it looks like you need to get one with the corret size screw cap to fit the tank.
Thanks,
Glenn
You do not say which model you have but the ND does not have a traditional screw cap so the pressurised type are not suitable. For the ND you will need one that sucks the fluid from the bleed nipple.
I have a cap on order so I can try and drill it to attach the Easybleed connector to see if the cap attachment is good enough to make a seal.
Warning, do NOT fill the fluid container on pressurised bleeders, if you have the slightest air leak you WILL get brake fluid sprayed into your engine compartment.
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Ha! yes, that would help. Its an NC
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Does it have to be a power/pressure bleeder that forces hyd fluid ‘down’ the sytem ?
I have had good results using a hand vacuum system that essentially sucks the fluid out of the bleed nipple at each bleed point. I think you get a good degree of fluid control very localised at the bleed nipple and there is less chance of introducing air- assuming you keep the master cylinder topped up. I have also kept the Vacuum on with the bleed nipple only opened a small bit and operated the pedal to shift a bit more fluid/Air.
I have used a Sealey tool and found that getting spare parts was easy too if damaged. I also bought a cheaper version off Amazon/Ebay that seems to work just as well.
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Open to all sugestions here! Just that I saw a pump used on a youtube vid so assumed that was the only way (other than pumping the brake peddle)
I see now you can suck from the bleed nipple with something like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alight-Tools-Bleeding-Vacuum-Motorbike/dp/B07WMWB8GH/
never worked on brakes before so all new to me 
Makes sense though that you can suck it through with the same results.
Hope I’m not hijacking the thread, but a linked topic, especially for experienced home-mechs out there…
How long would you keep WELL SEALED but opened bottles of fluid for? I place a limit of 2 years normally per opened bottle (indelible marker with ‘date opened’ on the bottle)… am I throwing away good fluid, or risking my & other road users’ lives??? I know fluid isn’t silly-expensive, but it’s not free either.
Appreciate input from experienced home-mechs 
You can buy a fluid tester for under £6 which will tell you if there is water contamination in it or not:
If it passes then I see no reason why you couldn’t use it? Others on here may know better though!
That said, like you say it’s not expensive and if it’s piece of mind you want then just bin it and buy new!
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So I ended up buying one of these:
Total waste of time. Could not get an air tight seal around the nipple so every time I created a vacuum, air was drawn in to the pipe so no way of telling if the air was in the the brake lines of coming in through the side of the nipple.
My mate was helping with fitting the new hoses so ended up just bleeding them using the brake peddle which was much more effective.
Conclusion: Stick with the old tried and tested way. Needs 2 people but guaranteed results 
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My local garage told me I had highish moisture in the fluid in my runabout vehicle. £75 to change it . Bought a pen tester for under a tenner and it gave a similar result ie. marginal. Will monitor sponginess.
Tried it on the other cars. Zero in the Mazda but over 4% in the wife’s i10.
Conclusion? I’m OK for a track day.
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