2013, NC 3.75, 2.0L, 84K miles
I’m changing the water pump, tensioner and pulley, idler, Aux belt, Coolant (Ravenol FL22?) and wondered if the thermostat should be done also?
I’ve also to remove the front bumper in order to replace the front grille, as it was was damaged by a falling branch. Access to AC lines might be improved and I’m certain there’s an AC leak. Does anyone know of any problem areas for leaks? I’ve ordered a UV torch, as last time it was regassed, they put in flourescent dye.
Looking forward to hearing any advice. Thanks in advance.
I’ve read its a good idea the change the thermostat, they’re not expensive, easy to change but akward. The coolant expansion tank is something that I’ve read can fail and cause major issues before noticed.
The rest of the fluids - LSD/Gearbox/brake(clutch) oils are worth changing.
Other typical things with NC’s are the skuttle gromits under the wind screen (the seals degrade and let water directly in the car), clucth adjustment, shifter lockout/boot/bushing and rust prevention/undersealing.
Thanks Mehty. Fortunately I’m on top of some other issues you mentioned. Grommets, rust prevention and all fluids. I’m sure the mk3.75 expansion tank is more robust than earlier cars, but I’ll keep an eye on it. 
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once you see how good the davfab coolant looks in your nc engine bay you will want to change it. 
I know I did! and soon will do!
£190! 
The cheapest that I’ve seen it for is £182.
I’m hoping that I can buy one at the end of next week.
Thermostat. yes. It’s probably already on it’s way out and as you’ll have the battery out anyway it’s not so hard to access. Remove the airbox and throttle body and it’s just the rear screws that can be elusive. Get the equivalent ford version of the stat rather than paying Mazda prices.
The AC pipes can be a bit fragile if disturbed. If your condenser is intact then the joints are the next most likely things to have perished. From memory there are 7 joints in the system which all use O rings to seal.
2 joints at heater box next to where the heater hoses go in.
2 joints on the condenser, they’ll be easy to spot
2 joints on the compressor, hopefully it’s not these as they are an **** to get to and the last time I was in that area I needed to remove the PCM to get to them. I was installing a compressor though rather than just the pipes so it might be easier than my job.
Finally there is a single joint at the front near the coolant tank below the pressure sensor.
Before you undo any of the joints be sure to have the system emptied because that gas is nasty stuff. you can buy a big box of o rings from amazon relatively cheaply
I hope that’s useful
I hope that’s useful
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Tremendous information. Many thanks. Much appreciated.