Was not aware M3’s had so many hidden “inside-outies”
Cheers for sorting the link Saz.
I’m hopeless!
The feedback I had from thrussington is, so far, when they get them in for welding, they’re generally rusty everywhere. On the plus side, lots of straight edges, so fabrication is easy.
Still, they made it to 15 years, before rust was talked of as a “common misery”. First case of Mk1 sill rust on the old MX5OC mailing list was in 2000, on a UK 1990 car. The owner was pretty proud of the use of boot polish then, and we were saying back then, that generally a 1990 MX5 had much less rust than a 1990 Fiesta, which was true for a while. Unfortunately, 20 years on, a high proportion of Mk1s are still in daily use, held together by sticky tape. But any Mk3 Fiestas are survivors, carefully garaged and sparingly used. So generally, a 1990 Fiesta (usually an XR2) is in much better condition than a 1990 MX5.
Mk3s lasted 5 more years.
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I would add the rear chassis legs and boot floor, especially immediately behind each rear wheel. Take the heat shield off too to get to the boot floor, the shield will rust too.
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hmm. our boot has some small rusty patches inside.
How do you take the heatshield off pls and is it easy to re-attach?
Hi Meneer you have to remove the exhaust box first to gain access to the heat shield which in pop riveted on ,then you have to drill the rivet heads off it will then come away . To refit you will need a pop rite gun and rivets hope this helps.
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very helpful BUT very inconvenient to access the underneath of the boot.
Hmm. I may just keep looking at the rust inside the car
Not sure if the rust is coming thru from underneath or just there inside the boot!
My rust spots are the rear boot supports above the exhaust outlets, and all the black subframes, braces etc (the original paint on these is useless). Bi-annual crawl underneath and slosh with waxoil seems to keep it at bay.
The boot supports seem to be affected by the exhaust heat, need to pull-off the original protection and generaoulsy paint with waxoil or your favorite stuff.
Don’t forget the front subframe mounts behind the front wheels, again a generous sloshing with your favourite stuff making sure it creeps around where the bolts go through into the body.
Waxoil does have it’s uses, with limits. It tends to harden,crack, and let in moisture again.
It’s dandy if you can be bothered applying top ups though…but it’s not great in high heat areas.
You won’t find professional restorers using it to any great deal given Dinitrol & POR15 etc ( 2 of many) provide more permanent solutions.
POR15 is a total nightmare to apply, but by’eck it’s like Chobham armour.
Don’t want to start a debate about this though…there are dozens of products out there now and ask 6 restorers which is best, you will get 6 different opinions.
Personal experience show our Mk2.5 rear lower wishbones I painted in POR15 pre-coating then top coat (twice) around 6 years back…are still rust free & surface black if I hose them.
I use Waxoil though…it’s the best thing since beer for strimmer blades & lubing outdoor padlocks etc.