rain rail - hood puzzle

Technical Area Body, Interior & Styling
2

I am starting to learn there’s a reason why people go to garages to get their new hoods fitted!
Sadly the remote location means this will be a DIY job as I trust the local garages abot as far as I can throw their most portly mechanic.

I’ve purchased a brand spanking new vinly hood from Mazda Japan (not sure how well a mohair version would handle the 35C+ so decided to stick with genunine parts)

Using one of the FAQ’s I diagnosed leaks / drips along the rain rail/gutter onto the parcel shelf
On removing the 10mm nuts, 3 set plates and peeling off the old hood I found the gutter to be in good shape - no cracks which means (I assume) that the water is leaking between the gutter and the hood material. I also noticed the new hood comes with a bunch of small rivets and yet the existing hood has none of these (but does have the holes)…so questions:

  1. should the hood be on the inside of the gutter to ensure there is no leaking?
  2. should the hood be riveted to the rain rail?
  3. Is there a step by step guide to attacking this!

Many thanks,

Ben

3

Hello! Before I start, just to make you feel better, it’s raining lots here!

The hood should be inside the rain rail so the water can run down the hood and be caught in the rail.

I think the hood was originally rivetted through the rain rail. If it has ever been change these rivets won’t be there (as mine) and you don’t need to re-rivet this area as the bolts hold everything nice and tight.

There are areas to rivet, at either side of the hood frame and you should have a few rivets in the new kit for this. Attack this job slowly and methodically and have plenty of tupperware boxes for various screws/fixings. It took me about 6hrs to change my hood.

If you are willing to wait, I have my fitting DVD from dandycars still and am happy to stick it in the post to you if you can post back to me. PM me if you want?

4

 

Thanks Baftacat! Good to get a common sense check! Think its going to take me 6 hours just to get the hood off (most of the metal work needs sanding down and re-painting after 15 years of neglect - still… amazingly tough little cars the 5’s!

 Thanks for the offer of the DVD - unfortunately post is pretty bad out here so Ill give it my best shot and come back cap in hand if needs be!

 

5

If you don’t use the rivets (and if you do, these need to be very tight), you need to plug the holes with silicone and gaffer tape. 

6

Hi
Is there any chance that I can borrow this DVD I am hoping to fit my new hood ASAP. Thanks

7

Gary,

No probs, PM me an address.

8

Thanks SAZ9961 - I was looking at the wrong section of the new hood before! - looks like the rivets will match the rain rail.
I guess it is easiest to remove the rain rail and rivet and then try to manouvre the rail back into position? Think Im going to take it to a fabric shop to make sure I don’t balls it up!

9

 If you rivet the rainrail to the hood, as you guessed, you need to be spot on. I’ve never had an issue with 3 replacement hoods of not riveting the rainrail; when fitting, it gives  you a measure of adjustment of fit.