Is it possible to do most servicing and repair tasks if you put the car up on four axle stands, under the box section points (I gather there are specific points with double skins to them).
Also (and I know I’m opening a can of worms here) what trolley jack should I look for?
Most servicing tasks can be done with two axle stands. I know people, including myself, have put cars on 4 axle stands, but really, I wouldn’t recommend it, because its so difficult to get the car balanced (I found it especially alarming lowering the car). There is an existing big thread on this, which included the use of forklifts and barrels of cement, so I won’t add further comment. I don’t like ramps.
As for jack, I’ve never had any problems using whatever jack comes with the Halfords package. Others will have other preferences.
As AT says most servicing can be done with the use of axle stands. Its not a problem geting these cars up on to 4 axle stands, in fact we do that when we are mopping the car as it makes it so much easier. Just think safety at all times. Te Halfords trolley jack will do the job although you may have to drive the front wheels onto some planks to get enough room to get the jack underneath.
There was a safety advisory re four axle stands in that you jack up the front and put in two stands then remove the jack.
When you jack up the back there is nothing stopping the car slipping off the front stands as the stands are designed stop the car falling down but have no way of stopping sideways movement.
Others who have got away with this will tell you it is ok but you have been warned.
The manufacturer of the tillting kit advises the use of stands as a back up to the tilting unit for safety. I have never used it but always have a look at it about every two months. There are two models one with little adjustment width wise that you linked to and another with lots of adjustment for width, you would need if you have either an older car or a Suzuki Jeep to work on as well as the MX.
There are lots of good quality jacks around but I would suggest that you get one that allows the jack to go down to a minimium height of say 80mm as the standard 150mm height of trolley jacks for sale are not suitable for certain jobs on the MX5 or other sports cars. That limts your choice but it stops you having to mess about with driving up on some wood then putting the taller jack underneath the front crossmember.
Hi, both are useful, it depends what work you’re doing and where you need access.
Yes, do be careful if putting it up on 4 axle stands as they can certainly tip over. Far better with 2 ramps one end then a jack and stands or 2 more ramps at the other end.
Machine Mart extenders are great with ordinary ramps,
Front centre jacking point is a long way back so ramps first can help even when going to stands later,
ramp then jack and put the ramp back in the other way for side access,
These are CJ adjustable ramps, roll up using Machine Mart extenders then wind them up with a socket,
Agree with that, so to do it in a gentlemanly fashion and to prevent a gentleman crawling on the floor, a two post lift comes in to it’s own. That’s always where I return.
Then a nice workshop about 6 mtrs wide by 8 mtrs long and a fridge and kettle and the other bits and pieces and you are in the region of £15k at least, it will be a bit more, it always is.
I bought a pair of two ton folding axle stands from Screfix today. Odd thing though I think the package says one ton for each stand…
I jacked the rear of MX5 up with the wheel changing jack from my Zafita and put one stand in under the chassis rail. So far so good and I squirted some WD40 onto my propshaft bolts.
So far so good till I noticed the FRONT wheel was off the deck also - so it was sitting on three points. Discretion being the better part of valour I removed stand and jacked it back down.
Didn’t fancy trying to jack the other side up with a wheel changing jack and having it slide sideways or something.
Yes at that point it is nice to get a trolley jack under the diff casing and get it in the air, then an axle stand under each rear sill jacking point. As the handrake will no longer stop the car rolling you should chock the front wheels.
Here is the link to the big long thread, including the barrels of concrete and forklift method
Of course working under cars is more dangerous than taking your car to the likes of Kwik-Fit (probably) but if all reasonable precautions and a little practical experiance is employed, it can be no more dangerous than crossing the road. Just take care when doing it and if in doubt ask someone who knows
Point taken Rich M. Yes, when I was a penniless student I did a lot of car maintenance. I had ramps, stands and a trolley jack. I always tried to make sure the car was solid before getting under it.
Hi, OK, not meaning to sound preachy but it’s easy for enthusiasm to turn to disaster.
As you noticed these cars are stiffly sprung so both side wheels will tend to lift when a corner is raised. Chock all wheels intended to stay on the ground then when you raise the other side by the same amount the car will be flat again and balanced.
Small axle stands alone are not good ime and folding axle stands really are the least stable under sideways loads, I wouldn’t use them personally for other than perhaps brake jobs a corner at a time and keeping the jack or both stands under.
If you’re looking to do the gbox tail seal I’d seek out a friendly garage, worth getting to know as a ramp makes those sort of jobs so much easier.
