One drill. One Ebay carbon fibre cold air induction kit. Nerve. Determination. Big hole in firewall. 14 degrees timing advance. Sports CAT. SS zorst.
BOOM!
Totally worth it. Great noise. Butt dyno registers…many horses.
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Technically Loch-Stewart intake; Randall ripped off the Australians.
Thank-you for your input.
i noticed how hot the fluid in the washer bottle was in my daughters car after driving it home yesterday on a very warm day. temp gauge was rock steady in the centre so its not running hot. The engine bay appears to get very warm. Do you think taking the cooling from behind the bulkhead will give you significant gains? its still trapped below the bonnet and the attendant heat? I’m sure its a good step in the right direction though. on my old saab 99 turbo i had the boost wound right up and temperatures were very high. i ducted air into the air box with similar piping to that you have used from the front air dam. i also had some louvres welded into the bonnet at strategic places and those lowered the under bonnet temperatures enormously.
The fire wall is there for a reason.
Also the area under a windscreen is usually a low pressure area so the air flow will not be great.
Personally Im not convinced youll see any gains.
Louvres are notoriously ineffective hence NACA ducts were developed. You need ram air ie; front facing in my view
From a Loch-Stewart style intake
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=110680
This is the original Loch Stewart from about 15-16 years ago
(though the AFM is deleted in this case)
AutoExe intake; no holes needed, and engine bay remains pressurised
Interesting.
The Loch Stewart has a smaller inlet through the firewall than the inlet behind the plate filter so is constantly under exaggerated negative pressure and may be utilising the venturi effect.
The other one I cant see it doing a lot more except allowing cooler air in as the washer bottle restricts flow.
Why not just duct cool air into the air box from the front of the car? Something in the air dam/ grill area? Are we talking significant power gains here? Worth declaring modification on the insurance ?