Thanks a lot. Will do.
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If you are buying an early ND e.g. 2016, 2017 check the gearbox and clutch well as there have been issues, sometimes requiring a new gearbox.
Basically 1st and 2nd are really stiff to select even when the car is warmed up.
Also check for rattling from the rear wheels, the hub bushes wear and even with aftermarket bushes it’s a couple a hundred a side to replace plus labour, genuine Mazda parts are even more.
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With so many different usages of words to describe car parts most major manufacturing groups now use standardised names for all parts. For example Ford worldwide, which used to include Mazda, Volvo Aston Martin and Jaguar Land Rover used the term Rear Closure to describe that part of the car which closed off the luggage compartment both as a plain metal structure or as a Glass / Metal Tailgate. A Boot is a fitting over a part to allow it to move and to keep things out of the mechanism.such as
Selector Lever Trim Boot - High/Low Range
Boot - Auto Shift Manual
Hood is the front bit of sheet metal which normally covers the engine compartment in a front engine vehicle. and a Rotor is the bit we would normally call a brake disc. Just don’t go down the “Rocker” name…which can exist in both Body Structure / Trim and Engine even on the Ford speak system.
That bit of flexible material which keeps the rain off and can be stowed away when the sun shines is designated as a Convertible Top - Assembly.
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2018 ones OK though?
Yes they are a lot better, production revisions were made each year getting better.
Avoid any cars that look like they have been tracked or driven hard, as this is likely to exacerbate the problems.
Look for evidence of gearbox oil being changed every 3 years.
Get a warranty if you can.
A good long test drive working all the gears and reverse many times should expose any problems.
Gearbox oil change about £100 at a dealer, less at independent.
1.5 doesn’t seem to suffer as much.
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Thanks so much! How long are the warranties usually? I’m looking at a cat n, 2018, 10k miles… £13500…sound right?
Hmmm, a CAT N write off……
Personally I wouldn’t touch any write off car.
You would need to find out exactly what has been repaired and to a high satisfactory standard.
A full independent inspection would be “essential” in my opinion.
Generally it would “probably” have been written off because of the high labour costs, (hence the N).
Not structure damage.
Clearly the price would reflect the CAT N.
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What do the Americans call the hood if they call the bonnet that?
Roof??
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CAT N would mean that a some point in the cars life it has been written off by an insurance company. For an insurance company to write off a car valued at over £13k must mean the damage was pretty substantial.
I would be very careful about buying any car that is a category insurance write off.
You might find it difficult to insure and certainly more difficult to re-sell
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I’m glad my post has caused much entertainment 
I personally wouldn’t buy a Cat N or S unless you know what you’re doing, you won’t really know what has happened to it.
Why dont you look at the previous NC model up to 2015 as £12k buys a showroom condition one and most are ULEZ compliant.
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It was the front bumper, some scratches… Non structural. Beautiful work done to repair, and checked it out on vehicle smart, all 
…
Just prefer the newer model…love the shape… Want an e type really
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Have a look on Autotrader, 1.5s from decent dealers, and not Cat S or N start around £13k.
They 1.5 is sufficient for most. How many miles and what driving do you do. If it’s just in London, 1.5 is fine, it’s 134bhp.
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Oh yes, it’s just a runaround London, the odd longer journey. I’ve been looking for a while now. The RF was from a dealer, but 14.5k, too much for me and wasn’t sure about the ‘roof not coming right down’ issue. Seeing the soft top today made my mind up I want the soft top, and not the RF. My mk1 has been written off twice you see, so it’s not something I automatically worry about… And actually, the insurance is OK! Had quote today of 250, pleased with that.
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If you park outside the RF is more waterproof and secure, won’t steam up as much in winter.
The convertibles are cheaper, but I unless you have a garage they are more vulnerable and will eventually leak.
I’ll be going RF next time, fed up cleaning Moss off the fabric roof.
I would recommend you to buy a genuine 1.5 not cat S or N with some warranty.
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Convertible top
From what I have read on here RFs can suffer with blocked drains and leaking roofs as well. If you use a half cover it will stop any moss and leaves etc. from going down the drains. Never had a problem with my car steaming up in winter and it is always kept outside. I think the joys of driving a true convertible top down outweigh any other niggles. As said before, if security is a big issue then the RF is possibly better.
I’ve got a little moss on my mk1, never bothered me, lol.
Guys, two questions, how easy is it to get replacement keys for the ND? And can you get new soft tops? Want a coloured one at some point, possibly… How much and where?
Thanks as ever, Claire