In the process of removing all my wishbones to get blasted but I’m having trouble removing the long bolts that hold the lower rear wishbone to the lower rear hub.
Got the nut off but can’t get them to turn or knock out.
These are my final bolts so does anyone know the method please?
Is there a trick or is my hammer just not big enough
does the bolt turn when you put a spanner on the head?
does the lower wish bone and hub move freely, when you try and move?
If not…I would reckon it is seized in the bushing and wish bone. Lots of penetrating fluid and a socket on the bolt to move in any direction to get it free. If not a bigger hammer!
“does the bolt turn when you put a spanner on the head?
does the lower wish bone and hub move freely, when you try and move?
If not…I would reckon it is seized in the bushing and wish bone. Lots of penetrating fluid and a socket on the bolt to move in any direction to get it free. If not a bigger hammer!”
X2 !!
As previously stated plus try cleaning up the exposed centre section of the long bolt , the part you can see between the two bushes. As this is exposed to the elements it usually gets corroded and mucky and can severely impact removal process . Failing that a bigger hammer but usually when they are subjected to extreme force they tend to bend and a new one will be required. I speak from personal experience
OP:
Flood’s advice mirrors pretty much whatg I embarked upon 3 weeks back.
Just been through this with my '93 Mk1 which has pretty much turned into a nut-bolt restoration.
Several of my wishbones looked “OK”…but I eventually had to write off all 8 given they were perforating from the inside out, a few bushes were welded beyond shifting, and one or two rounded out or caved in…and a couple wilted under the BFH treatment. I then decided to renew…the calipers, discs, coil-overs ( Koni St Kit turned out cheaper than OEM) droplinks, front anti roll bar, brake pipes…etc etc.
Good luck!
Feel your pain there SF… one thing leads on to another as I found to my cost during my ‘bottom refurb’ . Having shot blasted all my WB’s I eventually needed to buy 4 brand new ones due to pinholes , rest were fine. Two coats of POR 15 externally and a lot of Dinitrol in the cavities hopefully will ensure they outlast me !! Of course I then 'moved on ’ to brake discs / pads … calipers … braided lines … Hub bearings etc etc . Result is it might just push a sale at a couple of grand on the 'usual suspects ’ forums 'cos as we all know , you can easily get an immaculate rust free Mk1 for this figure (absolute tops mind you )
I did all mine this time last year. I was advised by Rhino to invest in an impact gun. One of the best things I ever bought. Plenty of penetrating fluid / shock and unlock, but they all came out eventually.
I only had to replace one of the rear lower bolts, but luckily I had a donor car, so had plenty of spares.
Bon Courage !
I was a coward!
I bought replacement rust free wishbones and hubs from Miata’s from Florida on eBay!
Built up all new Mazda bushes and nuts/bolts over two years. Got them blasted, primed and covered in smoothrite. I already had a good second hand subframe from autolink. so have better than new rear subframe ready to go into my S-Ltd
Difficult bit will be getting my rusty underside off, but i can resort to grinder if required…as none will be used again.
Not at all Flood…horses for courses…and your floridian wishbones will be far better than UK refurbished ones I suspect !
Regarding removing your existing undercarriage, the subframes have bolts and nuts on studs…I can not reiterate enough how much the impact gun helped me. I bought a used De-Walt off fleabay for £50…sooooooooo happy with it.
Interesting. I’ve been thinking about an impact gun but had heard differing reports.
Which one did you get and where from please?
Thanks
Hi Fraz
As I posted above…bought second hand from your favorite auction site…its a DeWalt 110v, £50 inc postage if I remember correctly. The ball which locks the socket on to the 1/2 drive is U/S but notwithstanding that, very happy with the purchase.
I used it a couple of weeks ago on the exhaust downpipe on my X Type diesel estate…nuts came off no issues. I have also invested in a decent 6 side impact socket set and a selection of extension bars…Hope this helps
Cheers
Richard
I don’t think these are ever in place on impact wrenches Richard. Neither of my Makita 6905B wrenches has the usual locating ball and never seen one on others for sale.
Some impact sockets have an alternative fixing system which probably accounts for the hole without the expected sprung ball bearing.
I’ve a De-Walt impact gun and it uses a sort of circlip to hold the sockets. Although it’s good, even with proper 6 sided impact sockets, for something like a seriously corroded MX5 long bolt, the wrench will eventually deform and round the nut or bolt head. Heat might help. I’m pretty sure I ended up using lots of heat on some of these bolts/nuts.
I have been fixing/breaking mx5 for 20 odd years and always use a 3/4drive power bar and 3/4 drive 21mm impact socket to remove bottom bolts . Never failed yet although I have had to “extend” the power bar with bit scaffolding pole on few occasions, often breaking the bolt but never had to leave one in yet. Do not remove wishbones from the car before you open the bolt. Also leave top wishbone attached to keep hub rigid, until you open the bolt.
Heavy work and definitely get new bolt as they can break or twist/buckle and should not be reused if damaged etc. Bolts tend to twist crooked. Roll one on floor if you do get it out and you will see it may be bent
Good post!